Sears Companion Cast Iron Scroll Saw

[Maui]

Here's an ad that came up on the local Craigslist a short time ago for a vintage cast iron scroll saw made by Sears:

http://rochester.craigslist.org/tls/4521730056.html

Does anyone here have an opinion about the quality of this tool compared to what you can buy today? Is it worth what the seller is asking for it?

Maui

 

[Stuart in MN]

The Companion line was their homeowner quality product back then, but they were still good tools. If you need a scroll saw, I'd say it's a good price.

 

[acdeucey]

Personally, I don't like that style scroll saw. It's limited in its capabilities when compared with newer-style saws.

First, it lacks variable speed. It's nice to be able to slow it down to make precision cuts in metal.

Second, it uses coping saw blades, which are too thick for intricate work.

Still, saws like that work good for general scroll saw cutting. Handy to have if you need it. It'd be something to start with to see if you like doing scroll saw work. If so, then you could upgrade somewhere down the road.

That is a nice, clean saw. It'd look great in a shop with other vintage tools. However, for me personally, not at that price.

Bottom line, I see newer-technology scroll saws on my local Craigslist for the same or a little more money. IMO, much better investments.

Good luck with your decision.

Don

 

[gus1962]

The saw looks like in a decent condition and if the seller would accept $40 for it, don't let it pass!

 

[Fretters]

No experience with that particular type, but I'd have that over a new one any day of the week. Just the general build quality etc. compared to the new stuff is better, as a rule, even if they weren't exactly perfectionists in their assembly. Only thing to remember is that they made need a bit if attention to get them working spot on. You can readily get fretsaw blades which are quite thin, so intricate work shouldn't be a problem, and it's easy enough to adapt to take pinless blades if necessary.

I have an old Medding's outside which I've cursed no end of times whilst restoring it due to their lacklustre attention to detail and sometimes warped design choices, but after seeing a few modern machines in the flesh, I can readily say I'd much rather spend time ironing out the remaining quirks on that one than take the simple option and go for a modern machine. The difference is night and day, build wise.

 

[lilredex]

Looks like a well made (and maintained) saw. Ad says it takes scroll saw blades, which these days, are the pin less type. It is currently a single speed but can be slowed using stepped pulleys. The only thing I see missing is a "puffer" (saw dust blower), but one could be rigged up.

I have a similar vintage 18" Beaver scroll saw (look over on OWWM to see examples) and it has a single speed, direct drive motor in the base, and it is quite OK speed wise for most materials.

Around $40 would cinch the deal for me.

 

[jakemac]

I prefer this style over the "modern" ones because I hate having the upper arm move and chatter in front of my face when working. Step pulleys on the motor and drive shaft will speed up or slow it down. A work light and blower can easily be clamped to the upper arm.

If you buy it, remember that there is an oil reservoir under the table. So don't let it tip when you put it in your car. Change the oil before you go to use it (I used a 50/50 mix of non-detergent 30wt and Marvel Mystery Oil). My Cman/KS was seized due to the oil varnishing on the oscillating parts when I found it. An easy fix.

 

[treimers]

Probably not a bad price.

I have a 1933 Companion bandsaw - works just great and does WAY better than
other modern bandsaws.... weighs about 10x as much too!

 

[Fretters]

If you buy it, remember that there is an oil reservoir under the table. So don't let it tip when you put it in your car. Change the oil before you go to use it (I used a 50/50 mix of non-detergent 30wt and Marvel Mystery Oil). My Cman/KS was seized due to the oil varnishing on the oscillating parts when I found it. An easy fix.

Fitting some type of filter to the breather pipe is handy too, if the end is open? My cylinder had an inch or two of sawdust and oil mush in the bottom when I got it. Oil wise, a mix of 10/40 and 15/40 in mine, (I just chuck all of the dregs from the engine oil containers into one container for workshop lube).

Looking at the photo's, it seems those are quite a sturdy machine, from what I could gather? Personally, I'd jump on that machine even at the price it's listed for. Trying to get something of comparable quality across here for anything like that price would be nigh on impossible.

Was looking at a rather small modern one the other week somewhere. Must have been in some type of second hand shop or such, but by eck, was I surprised at the size and build quality. I bet the table alone from one of these older machines would probably weigh as much as a standard size complete new machine.