Securing metal framing to brick

[branimal]

I’m running my ceiling angle across an exposed brick wall and I find the Tapcon concrete screws do not hold firmly.

The brick sort of crumbles around the hole. I’ve tried the drill bit that comes with the tapcon screws and a bit for my sds hammer drill. Same result.

The ceiling angle is going to support metal ceiling framing, which will in turn hold 5/8” drywall.

Should I just slap in plastic plugs and keep it moving? Or is there a better way?








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[Hilltopmasonry]

If you have room and the fastener head doesn’t get in the way I really like the redhead hammer drive fasteners. A lot easier than using tap con screws

I have a love hate relationship with tapcons

Sometimes they are great and other times they are ****








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[rlitman]

Tapcon bits are sized for inserting the tapcon in concrete. Brick may be softer, so it can fit loose. I'd stick a length of string trimmer line in each hole to tighten the fit.

 

[rustyjames]

Tapcon bits are sized for inserting the tapcon in concrete. Brick may be softer, so it can fit loose. I'd stick a length of string trimmer line in each hole to tighten the fit.

Good tip with the trimmer line. A zip-tie would probably work as well. Try drilling without the drill on hammer, and go easy when tightening the Tapcon.

 

[branimal]

Good tip on the trimmer line / zip tie. I used a piece of plastic strap that are used to bundle metal studs and that worked.

Thanks guys.


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[rlitman]

Good tip with the trimmer line. A zip-tie would probably work as well. Try drilling without the drill on hammer, and go easy when tightening the Tapcon.

Yes. A zip tie would be perfect too.

As for hammer, maybe. When the drilling goes quick, hammer can make the hole bigger. But when just rotation takes too long, that can enlarge the hole too.

 

[rustyjames]

Yes. A zip tie would be perfect too.

As for hammer, maybe. When the drilling goes quick, hammer can make the hole bigger. But when just rotation takes too long, that can enlarge the hole too.

Agreed, but every brick I've ever drilled (except concrete) was pretty soft and was easy drilling without the hammer action. You could also try hitting the motar joint, but that could be hit and miss.

 

[rlitman]

Agreed, but every brick I've ever drilled (except concrete) was pretty soft and was easy drilling without the hammer action. You could also try hitting the motar joint, but that could be hit and miss.

I used to think that too until I bought my house and 15 minutes with my 18V hammer drill made negligible progress in a 1/4” hole. That’s when I bought an SDS.

Most older (19th century) brick are pretty soft. A lot of newer stuff just has a hard shell.

Yes, mortar is just as hit or miss. Mortar SHOULD be a little softer than the brick. In my case, my mortar holds fasteners very well. In many cases, it does not.

 

[Slowgsr]

Use the 1/4 tapcons, 3/16 predrill. I hate those small diameter ones.

Get longer ones as well, try 1/4 x 1 3/4 tapcons. Get 5/16 drive since your not countersinking them.

 

[The Cobbler]

I've had good luck drilling a 1/8" hole then tapping in a concrete nail (1/2 to 3/4" , not too long. pre drill the wall angle first, with larger holes