BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
Wanted to see if others had done much with security cameras.
Security Cameras
- Thread starter BlackSheepSpeedShop
- Start date
I have one of the Costco systems. Q-See with 6 cameras and a 1TB hard drive. I already caught 2 kids vandalizing. Easily saw their faces in total darkness. One little twerp pulled the main power on my house. Too bad his face was already recorded! I was home at the time around midnight and my phone got an email before he yanked the main.....
machine_punk
Well-known member
I've been thinking about it, but we don't seem to have many problems in our neighborhood. Thinking about a camera on the front and back doors, and cameras looking at the gate coming into the back yard, and one looking 'down the street' each way...to catch license plates, etc.
But, my main defense is just making it look like my house is 'nothing special' from the front. We keep it neat and clean, but nothing to clue you in that there might be anything particularly valuable here.
As another not about preventing issues...don't store valuables in your bedroom. It is our first instinct to keep our valuables close to us, and the first place criminals head, to look for those valuables.
Kev
But, my main defense is just making it look like my house is 'nothing special' from the front. We keep it neat and clean, but nothing to clue you in that there might be anything particularly valuable here.
As another not about preventing issues...don't store valuables in your bedroom. It is our first instinct to keep our valuables close to us, and the first place criminals head, to look for those valuables.
Kev
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
I bought 2 samsung systems, one for house and one for detached garage/shop. Currently the drywall is just being finished. I ran the camera cables to the soffits before the insulation went in. I sure hope all the cameras work once I get them hooked up in a few months!!!
Hdtheater
Well-known member
I use an ip based one in my garage for watching the CNC. Works good for watching, but I have not setup recording. Too many hoops for me to take the time.
-Eric
-Eric
NC4AB
Active member
I have had decent luck with the Airsight **-36 wireless cameras.
They work great during the daytime but the pictures are pretty dark at night. Takes a little trial and error to navigate through the software but once you figure it out it's not too bad. When they are activated they save a video file to the computer and send an email to my phone with 4 - 6 pictures of what ever tripped the camera.
The X10 website used to carry them and you could pick them up on sale for ~ $70.00 each, but it looks like they don't carry them anymore.
Andy
They work great during the daytime but the pictures are pretty dark at night. Takes a little trial and error to navigate through the software but once you figure it out it's not too bad. When they are activated they save a video file to the computer and send an email to my phone with 4 - 6 pictures of what ever tripped the camera.
The X10 website used to carry them and you could pick them up on sale for ~ $70.00 each, but it looks like they don't carry them anymore.
Andy
OP
BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
I use mine and am thinking about a second system. Cheap insurance.
CudaChick1968
Member Emeritus
Subscribed ...
Thanks guys. One can never be too careful these days.
Thanks guys. One can never be too careful these days.
OP
BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
Spent some time today. I will post more info soon. I would really be interested in more info on securing doors, security lighting anything to help with security. Thanks all.
2010drive
Member
I don't have a shop yet and we don't have many security issues around here so my setup will be more for fun than security but it will be something like this...
One or two of these (painted black) http://hdsecuritystore.com/product.php?id_product=18
With something similar to this (8 1080P cameras) http://www.lorextechnology.com/HD-security-camera-system/High-definition-surveillance-camera-system-8-HD-security-cameras/prod360020.p
One or two of these (painted black) http://hdsecuritystore.com/product.php?id_product=18
With something similar to this (8 1080P cameras) http://www.lorextechnology.com/HD-security-camera-system/High-definition-surveillance-camera-system-8-HD-security-cameras/prod360020.p
schmelpboy
Banned
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2012
- Messages
- 1,717
I asked the same question on here not too long ago...I ended up with the LOREX system that does 1080P. I bought the 4 camera system with 1TB hard drive, but it can also be purchased in a 2 camera system. Best money I have ever spent on a security system. I have no problem at all identifying vehicles, I can tell you make, model, and, since I'm a car guy, general year by body style...I can even see drivers perfectly clear if the glare off their windshield doesn't get in the way of their face. People that walk the road by my driveway...also perfectly clear down to facial features. Halo isn't the best at night, but I can still see cars perfectly. I know which of my neighbors are going by. For the money, I have yet to see anything better than my Lorex. There are all kinds of tweaks you can play with in the menu, I have yet to mess with any of them. They also give you a free DDNS address for you to view your cameras remotely from a smartphone or another computer.
You can set it to continuous recording, or motion. I find that the motion option is a little sensitive, as branches near my cameras constantly set them off. Which, is really fine with me. It let's me know nothing is getting by.
The only thing that is hard to see is license plates. Iowa uses highly reflective plates, so it's hard to get a good plate number. But, anyone that gets anywhere near my cameras is easily identifiable, even at night.
You can set it to continuous recording, or motion. I find that the motion option is a little sensitive, as branches near my cameras constantly set them off. Which, is really fine with me. It let's me know nothing is getting by.
The only thing that is hard to see is license plates. Iowa uses highly reflective plates, so it's hard to get a good plate number. But, anyone that gets anywhere near my cameras is easily identifiable, even at night.
Whiskeymike
Well-known member
What options are there for connectivity on these various systems. Beyond AC power, I assume there is RCA, hdmi, wifi, proprietary wireless, anything else? Are any of them DC power?
I have powered security lights at the various corners of my house, so getting power is easy, but running cable is going to be a pain.
I have powered security lights at the various corners of my house, so getting power is easy, but running cable is going to be a pain.
Vet65te
Well-known member
We'll be soon building a new house and am interested in a security camera system because with the 2+ acre lot, we'll be a bit more isolated than we are now. What are the prices of these setups such as that Lorex already mentioned?
Mike T.
Mike T.
schmelpboy
Banned
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2012
- Messages
- 1,717
Whiskey: My system is run through CAT5+ Ethernet....The connections inside of the house are actually CAT6, and I will replace the outdoor line when it becomes more cost effective. The upside to CAT5/6 is that you can get much higher quality video without skipping, pixelation, etc. that you can't get with things like Wireless only (that I'm aware of at present time). In my experience, the more portability, the lower the quality of video.
As far as DC, if that's what you need, all you need is a really cheap power converter...but why would you want DC?
Vet65te: My system was 1201.00 shipped. I ordered it through Best Buy. I did see that they were having a LOREX sale last month (of course, just after I buy mine) and Best Buy had the exact same system for 999.99 on their site.
That being said, LOREX doesn't do the best job telling you what you need to install their system, so you will be buying extra parts. For me, I "added" security by not running any of my wiring underground. Underground means accessible. 2 of my cameras are on 15 foot peaks of my house, so the wiring is just run underneath of my siding. 2 of my cameras are elsewhere on the property: I ran plastic 1/2 inch conduit UP into my trees (the ones I have cameras mounted in) so that I could run the wiring inside to make them much more tamper proof. I made sure the cameras were at least 10 feet off of the ground (the resolution is awesome, so the height doesn't make a difference) that way no one could reach them, even with a step ladder they may find on the property. (I also cut off all lower branches when I was done so there was no ability to climb). I then ran the CAT5 to 15 feet up in the trees, and across to my house. That way, there is really no ability for anyone to unplug or cut any cables. And, I also made all of my cameras cross, that way if anyone did mess with my install, they'd be caught by another camera. (LOREX has a built in warning in their system that will make a loud sound from the head unit if any signal is lost, as well as email you to let you know they've been tampered with/send video or stills up to 5 minutes before the tamper began).
So, you'll be buying any materials you need to run/protect/hang any wiring. I also had to purchase a box for the side of my house to run the cables inside. Since all of my good tools are at work in my tool box and I was lazy, I had to go to Menards a couple of times to buy a 1" hole saw blade, plastic hangers, screws, etc. In the internet/tv section of menards, you can also find the wall outlet you'll need to buy, as it doesn't come in the box. I had to buy a 2 port outlet cover, then buy the optional 8 port (my head unit give you ports for 4 extra cameras). Basically, you have to build your own outlet. There is a company called "Q" something, that makes the female end you'll need once cutting off the male end outside the house. (LOREX gives you 4 100 ft cables with the 4 camera system, both ends being male, you'll have to cut one off on the inside of the house while creating your outlet) This "Q" company also makes a special tool that came in major handy. Their "female" outlet plug fits perfectly into this tool, and crimps the cut-off male end for you, making the wiring a cinch. If memory serves, the tool was 40 bucks, and each of the females was 3.99 I think. It was money well spent in my opinion. You will also have to buy (separately) a CAT5/6 cable for each camera that runs from the female plug on the wall to the back of the LOREX head unit. The kit does include the plug that runs from the head unit to your Wireless Router for DDNS server access (thank goodness).
Cliffnotes: There is a lot not in the box. I think I spent roughly 300.00 or so buying stuff that didn't come with the kit. I don't blame them, technically, since they can't assume how anyone is going to install their system. However, not providing the cables that go from the wall to the head unit, or including the ethernet box, is a little ridiculous. I don't know why they think a person would run a straight wire with 2 male ends from outside directly to the inside of their home without putting in a box...but that's just me.
As far as DC, if that's what you need, all you need is a really cheap power converter...but why would you want DC?
Vet65te: My system was 1201.00 shipped. I ordered it through Best Buy. I did see that they were having a LOREX sale last month (of course, just after I buy mine) and Best Buy had the exact same system for 999.99 on their site.
That being said, LOREX doesn't do the best job telling you what you need to install their system, so you will be buying extra parts. For me, I "added" security by not running any of my wiring underground. Underground means accessible. 2 of my cameras are on 15 foot peaks of my house, so the wiring is just run underneath of my siding. 2 of my cameras are elsewhere on the property: I ran plastic 1/2 inch conduit UP into my trees (the ones I have cameras mounted in) so that I could run the wiring inside to make them much more tamper proof. I made sure the cameras were at least 10 feet off of the ground (the resolution is awesome, so the height doesn't make a difference) that way no one could reach them, even with a step ladder they may find on the property. (I also cut off all lower branches when I was done so there was no ability to climb). I then ran the CAT5 to 15 feet up in the trees, and across to my house. That way, there is really no ability for anyone to unplug or cut any cables. And, I also made all of my cameras cross, that way if anyone did mess with my install, they'd be caught by another camera. (LOREX has a built in warning in their system that will make a loud sound from the head unit if any signal is lost, as well as email you to let you know they've been tampered with/send video or stills up to 5 minutes before the tamper began).
So, you'll be buying any materials you need to run/protect/hang any wiring. I also had to purchase a box for the side of my house to run the cables inside. Since all of my good tools are at work in my tool box and I was lazy, I had to go to Menards a couple of times to buy a 1" hole saw blade, plastic hangers, screws, etc. In the internet/tv section of menards, you can also find the wall outlet you'll need to buy, as it doesn't come in the box. I had to buy a 2 port outlet cover, then buy the optional 8 port (my head unit give you ports for 4 extra cameras). Basically, you have to build your own outlet. There is a company called "Q" something, that makes the female end you'll need once cutting off the male end outside the house. (LOREX gives you 4 100 ft cables with the 4 camera system, both ends being male, you'll have to cut one off on the inside of the house while creating your outlet) This "Q" company also makes a special tool that came in major handy. Their "female" outlet plug fits perfectly into this tool, and crimps the cut-off male end for you, making the wiring a cinch. If memory serves, the tool was 40 bucks, and each of the females was 3.99 I think. It was money well spent in my opinion. You will also have to buy (separately) a CAT5/6 cable for each camera that runs from the female plug on the wall to the back of the LOREX head unit. The kit does include the plug that runs from the head unit to your Wireless Router for DDNS server access (thank goodness).
Cliffnotes: There is a lot not in the box. I think I spent roughly 300.00 or so buying stuff that didn't come with the kit. I don't blame them, technically, since they can't assume how anyone is going to install their system. However, not providing the cables that go from the wall to the head unit, or including the ethernet box, is a little ridiculous. I don't know why they think a person would run a straight wire with 2 male ends from outside directly to the inside of their home without putting in a box...but that's just me.
try some software called blueiris.. its a complete software package, they have a free trial version and if you like it it doesnt cost much, like $40. A guy on another forum used it with some less expensive cameras and it improved his system a bunch.. It might be worth a try..
if your getting a lot of light saturation, such as taillights and license plates glaring get an optical band pass filter.
I have a DVR camera system running that I custom installed myself. I ran ALL my cameras over Cat5. (Video + power. Each use a pair.) I also have a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) connected in case of power loss.
When I began planning my system, I knew some basics already due to a past job. But doing it for myself now, I began learning much more than I knew I even needed.
Cameras
I already knew I wanted my cameras somewhat hidden, but not vulnerable either. So I installed each of my cameras so it can be seen by another camera. You cannot approach without being seen from any angle. Possible overkill, but simple too. It all comes down to FOV. (Field of view.) This is one of the most important things when it comes to cameras and what you want to actually see where you're placing it! Each specific and individual camera I bought, I used a calculator like this one to calculate my lens size. How much do you actually want to see where you're pointing it? Very cool tool.
I also knew I wanted night vision obviously. So I bought one camera from a site with LEDs and thought I would try it out. It glowed red - pointing out it's location. It actually worked like a flashlight does. (Pointing it into the yard at night, you saw nothing. Point it at the ground or a person, and you'd see what you want.) But the glowing LEDs was a deal breaker for me. This is what almost every camera you see packaged with a DVR has. The only way I learned I could get them not to glow was to get ones that transmitted above the 900 nm range. But they're expensive. So I ended up and found out about lux ratings. The lower the lux rating, the better the camera sees at night with no LEDs! So I wound up having many black and white high res. cameras that can see anything and everything no matter if it's light or dark. I actually like them better than the color cameras I use in conjunction. Most of my "expertise" I learned from this really cool guy at this site. He would spend crazy amounts of time answering my questions and helping me out. His prices were also competitive and I ended up buying all my cameras from him.
Connecting the cameras
I found out you can run video over Cat5 way further than you can over coax. It's also a much cleaner install and much easier to work with. So I ran Cat5 to each camera location and used baluns to connect them. The baluns I used I bought from a place called 4netonline. Since it's been a couple of years since I bought them, and they look as if they've changed a bit, I'll describe them:
One camera's balun is located at the camera obviously. (A Cat5 connector is plugged into the balun. The balun has a BNC connector that the camera plugs into, and a pigtail coming off of it for the camera's power plug.) This is a lot of "junk" at a camera's mounting location, but is easily hidden inside an outdoor two gang electric box.
The camera's other balun is just for receiving video on the DVR side. The pair that carries the video of the Cat5 screws to the balun converting it to BNC. (This goes into the DVR's input.). The pair carrying the power then splits off the Cat5 and goes to the DC power supply box.
My DVR
This is something I ended up basically building myself. I bought a basic 16 channel DVR box. No hard drives, no DVD burner, no floppy drive. You can buy each of these pieces of hardware for much less than what they charge to package them together with the DVR. I only needed the DVD or the USB anyways to download the video if needed. You can buy the DVRs whole just as easy. But I saved a few hundred dollars doing it this way.
The single most important thing to me on my DVR was something called "pre-alarm" or "pre-record". (Depending on the brand. Among other variations.) This is important because a DVR's motion detection can easily be averted by someone running at the camera. By the time the camera senses movement, the guy may already be too close to be seen. Pre-alarm allows you to choose an amount of time to "add" to the event recorded.
I have motion detection set up on each camera. But on 2 of them, I have them running non-stop. I can hold about 2.5 weeks of video at a time before it begins over-writing itself. More than enough for my need.
The last piece I'll add is what I decided on my DVR location. I originally placed it where it would be hard to find. But then thought about what good is recording something that can easily be taken? So I put it in a safe. Cut my power, cut my wires, I still have you on video.
I hope this can be helpful to some of you!
When I began planning my system, I knew some basics already due to a past job. But doing it for myself now, I began learning much more than I knew I even needed.
Cameras
I already knew I wanted my cameras somewhat hidden, but not vulnerable either. So I installed each of my cameras so it can be seen by another camera. You cannot approach without being seen from any angle. Possible overkill, but simple too. It all comes down to FOV. (Field of view.) This is one of the most important things when it comes to cameras and what you want to actually see where you're placing it! Each specific and individual camera I bought, I used a calculator like this one to calculate my lens size. How much do you actually want to see where you're pointing it? Very cool tool.
I also knew I wanted night vision obviously. So I bought one camera from a site with LEDs and thought I would try it out. It glowed red - pointing out it's location. It actually worked like a flashlight does. (Pointing it into the yard at night, you saw nothing. Point it at the ground or a person, and you'd see what you want.) But the glowing LEDs was a deal breaker for me. This is what almost every camera you see packaged with a DVR has. The only way I learned I could get them not to glow was to get ones that transmitted above the 900 nm range. But they're expensive. So I ended up and found out about lux ratings. The lower the lux rating, the better the camera sees at night with no LEDs! So I wound up having many black and white high res. cameras that can see anything and everything no matter if it's light or dark. I actually like them better than the color cameras I use in conjunction. Most of my "expertise" I learned from this really cool guy at this site. He would spend crazy amounts of time answering my questions and helping me out. His prices were also competitive and I ended up buying all my cameras from him.
Connecting the cameras
I found out you can run video over Cat5 way further than you can over coax. It's also a much cleaner install and much easier to work with. So I ran Cat5 to each camera location and used baluns to connect them. The baluns I used I bought from a place called 4netonline. Since it's been a couple of years since I bought them, and they look as if they've changed a bit, I'll describe them:
One camera's balun is located at the camera obviously. (A Cat5 connector is plugged into the balun. The balun has a BNC connector that the camera plugs into, and a pigtail coming off of it for the camera's power plug.) This is a lot of "junk" at a camera's mounting location, but is easily hidden inside an outdoor two gang electric box.
The camera's other balun is just for receiving video on the DVR side. The pair that carries the video of the Cat5 screws to the balun converting it to BNC. (This goes into the DVR's input.). The pair carrying the power then splits off the Cat5 and goes to the DC power supply box.
My DVR
This is something I ended up basically building myself. I bought a basic 16 channel DVR box. No hard drives, no DVD burner, no floppy drive. You can buy each of these pieces of hardware for much less than what they charge to package them together with the DVR. I only needed the DVD or the USB anyways to download the video if needed. You can buy the DVRs whole just as easy. But I saved a few hundred dollars doing it this way.
The single most important thing to me on my DVR was something called "pre-alarm" or "pre-record". (Depending on the brand. Among other variations.) This is important because a DVR's motion detection can easily be averted by someone running at the camera. By the time the camera senses movement, the guy may already be too close to be seen. Pre-alarm allows you to choose an amount of time to "add" to the event recorded.
I have motion detection set up on each camera. But on 2 of them, I have them running non-stop. I can hold about 2.5 weeks of video at a time before it begins over-writing itself. More than enough for my need.
The last piece I'll add is what I decided on my DVR location. I originally placed it where it would be hard to find. But then thought about what good is recording something that can easily be taken? So I put it in a safe. Cut my power, cut my wires, I still have you on video.
I hope this can be helpful to some of you!
rlitman
Well-known member
All my cameras are the conventional type with RG-59 coax running back to my 16 channel DVR.
I actually don't mind the red glow of the IR on SOME of the cameras. I leave those visible on the higher up spots that cannot be reached. The "concealed" cameras are often behind glass (like one that is on an arm just behind a window in my garage door). Those cannot have IR, because it would reflect off the glass and ruin the image. That's where I use the low lux cameras.
I don't mind having some of my cameras visible. The red glow is a clear indication that they're working, and are not dummy cameras. If that prevents someone from doing something stupid, all the better.
I don't think too many people on this site have valuables in their bedroom anyway. Aren't we more interested in protecting that Snap On stash?
I actually don't mind the red glow of the IR on SOME of the cameras. I leave those visible on the higher up spots that cannot be reached. The "concealed" cameras are often behind glass (like one that is on an arm just behind a window in my garage door). Those cannot have IR, because it would reflect off the glass and ruin the image. That's where I use the low lux cameras.
I don't mind having some of my cameras visible. The red glow is a clear indication that they're working, and are not dummy cameras. If that prevents someone from doing something stupid, all the better.
I don't think too many people on this site have valuables in their bedroom anyway. Aren't we more interested in protecting that Snap On stash?
So what happened to them? If you called the cops, were the cops interested in IDing the kids?
If nothing happened, then is having a video really worthwhile after all?
mrjaw14
Well-known member
I used to install them professionally, what do you want to know?
My advise is this: If you get crappy cameras you won't be able to positivly identify a suspect in court. Doesn't matter if the kid that broke in is 5"6" with blonde hair and you know its him because you lived next to him for years, it's what you have to prove in court. Many a convenience store bought a elcheapo costo or harbor freight system, got robbed, the footage wasn't admissable in court because it didn't clearly identify the suspect. Remember distance is key. It's not likely the theft happens right in front of the camera. So I'd rather have 1-3 really good cameras with high enough resolution to be zoomed in and still be meaninful and operate in low light, than 8 cheap cameras that you have to be right in front of in perfect light.
also if your cameras are in the garage, your DVR needs to be somewhere else or it'll get stolen too.
My advise is this: If you get crappy cameras you won't be able to positivly identify a suspect in court. Doesn't matter if the kid that broke in is 5"6" with blonde hair and you know its him because you lived next to him for years, it's what you have to prove in court. Many a convenience store bought a elcheapo costo or harbor freight system, got robbed, the footage wasn't admissable in court because it didn't clearly identify the suspect. Remember distance is key. It's not likely the theft happens right in front of the camera. So I'd rather have 1-3 really good cameras with high enough resolution to be zoomed in and still be meaninful and operate in low light, than 8 cheap cameras that you have to be right in front of in perfect light.
also if your cameras are in the garage, your DVR needs to be somewhere else or it'll get stolen too.
OP
BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
Thank you, we may need you as our go to guy for advise.
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
I have done a handful of CCTV installs for commercial customers, also some cleanup jobs of existing nightmares.
I like the Everfocus DVRs, they have gotten a lot better over the years.
Yesterday I replaced a no-name 16 channel 250 GB DVR at a KFC with a 16 channel 1TB Everfocus.
A lot of their issues were due to poor wiring and burned out cameras which I fixed over the past several months.
I've done both traditional RG59 + 18/2 as well as Cat 5e and baluns, both with good results.
I am installing a Ubiquiti AirVision system for another customer.
All IP cameras, POE switches, and a 500 GB NVR. So far it's working out very well.
I like the Everfocus DVRs, they have gotten a lot better over the years.
Yesterday I replaced a no-name 16 channel 250 GB DVR at a KFC with a 16 channel 1TB Everfocus.
A lot of their issues were due to poor wiring and burned out cameras which I fixed over the past several months.
I've done both traditional RG59 + 18/2 as well as Cat 5e and baluns, both with good results.
I am installing a Ubiquiti AirVision system for another customer.
All IP cameras, POE switches, and a 500 GB NVR. So far it's working out very well.
Falcon67
Well-known member
We've tested the Ubiquiti stuff - works pretty good. Their cameras are pretty good bang for the buck for 720p, except no IR for night.
Todd - I too got a QSee system from Costco. Did you get the one PTZ (pan tilt zoom) as well? I love this system and the remote monitoring works great
OP
BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
I am seriously considering a pan tilt zoom for my hangar. Would love to get the most bang for the buck.
OP
BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
If it comes with a sniper option, I will take two!
On a down side, I caught a real murder at my place of business last year.
I went to my site in 4am in morning and found a body at my place. Called 911 and 30+ cops were there all day and every one of them had to watch my play back. The guy was caught the next morning
I went to my site in 4am in morning and found a body at my place. Called 911 and 30+ cops were there all day and every one of them had to watch my play back. The guy was caught the next morning
OP
BlackSheepSpeedShop
Well-known member
Yuck! All I am going to catch is two 80 year old guys fighting about which direction to mow the lawn. Still very entertaining.
that i want to see
