Security/Dusk to Dawn Light to LED Question

[MopardudeWI]

I have a Security/ Dusk to Dawn type of light fixture that takes a M90 metal halide bulb. I believe the ballast is going in it. I haven't torn the light apart yet to see what ballast I need for it yet but I have done some quick searches online to see what the prices are going for and they look to be from $40-$80 depending on the model. If I am going to be dropping that kind of cash I kinda want to find out what options do I have if I want to upgrade to an LED setup or fixture? Is there a better option than replacing this fixture with LED floods?

 

[Barnabas]

I have three of those kind of lights on the outside of my garage. Mine are the big square industrial lights that shine light out and down.

I replaced the lamps in mine with LEDs. The lamps I got have the mogul screw base and a corn-cob look. The big trick was to find a lamp (bulb) that was short enough to fit the fixture. I think they cost about $75 each.

I got the kind that runs off of 120 or 240 volts. Then I bypassed the ballast (actually removed it) so the 240v power comes in the light fixture and goes directly to the lamp socket to power the LED lamp.

My setup has a seperate dusk-to-dawn sensor on the side of the building that powers a relay that then sends the power to the three light fixtures.

 

[Bert_]

What makes you think the current ballast is bad?

I am less than impressed with a lot of the LED security lights. You end up with a bright spot directly underneath the light and hardly any light 50' away.

If you do go with an LED I think it is worthwhile to get it in 4000k, even if you have to special order it.

 

[MopardudeWI]

What makes you think the current ballast is bad?

When I first started having issues with it it would go out than be on again after an hour or so and would do that all night. We had a few below freezing nights last week and they and didn't have any issues with it. Than we got back up into the 40's and it started acting up again. The last few nights it hasn't come on at all. I have gone up and pulled the bulb out a couple of times now doesn't seem like the bulb is bad. With them working good the nights we dipped down into the freezing numbers makes me think the ballast is the issue that it was overheating.

 

[dw1]

When I first started having issues with it it would go out than be on again after an hour or so and would do that all night. We had a few below freezing nights last week and they and didn't have any issues with it. Than we got back up into the 40's and it started acting up again. The last few nights it hasn't come on at all. I have gone up and pulled the bulb out a couple of times now doesn't seem like the bulb is bad. With them working good the nights we dipped down into the freezing numbers makes me think the ballast is the issue that it was overheating.

Time for a new lamp. If you decide to replace the fixture and go LED, I would look at RAB LED lights, I have installed their LED lights and everyone has been very pleased.

 

[MopardudeWI]

I was looking at those corn-cob replacement LED's, so even with that design they still don't throw the light out at all its still a fairly directional beam of light?

 

[MopardudeWI]

Time for a new lamp.

I dunno we have the bigger style lamps on the shop at work, when they go bad they look burnt as hell on the inside. This bulb I have looks brand new. Not sure when it was last replaced I have only lived here a little over a year.

 

[Bert_]

I'd try a new lamp to start with. Once and a while I've had photo switches do weird stuff like that too but not often.

This is almost certainly NOT the ballast.

I was looking at those corn-cob replacement LED's, so even with that design they still don't throw the light out at all its still a fairly directional beam of light?

If you want LED get a real fixture. Those corn cob looking things put out a fraction of the light and last barely as long as the original metal halide. Generally cheaply built junk.

 

[MopardudeWI]

I'd try a new lamp to start with. Once and a while I've had photo switches do weird stuff like that too but not often.

This is almost certainly NOT the ballast.

Ok I swap one out first and see.

 

[MopardudeWI]

Before I posted this question I did some searching on the google about switching to LED but most of the info I found was a few years old. Looks like you guys are basically saying the same things I was reading doesn't look like LED has come far enough yet for this kind of task. In my application its better for the light to light up the area for me as I live out in the county in the middle of the woods. I need it to keep away the coyotes, and I guess there is a mountain lion hanging around the area now too.

Out of curiosity do the sodium and mercury vapor fixtures have any advantage over the metal halide?

 

[Lelandwelds]

Out of curiosity do the sodium and mercury vapor fixtures have any advantage over the metal halide?

HPS (and LPS) doesnt draw bugs or put out UV if outer is bad. MV is a cheap fixture to purchase. MH is a much better color.

The newer LED are supposed to be good. They are often designed for roadway or pathway illumination and throw light only on the road. The describe the beam shape as #1 through #5. I think #1 is the most circular. I think #5 is almost a skinny rectangle beam shape.

 

[Bert_]

^ The only good LED's direct the light downward, which is great if you want to light a street from a tall pole. Not so much if you want to spread light over your whole yard. I have not yet seen a truly good LED replacement for the classic NEMA bucket light.

I don't really like metal halide security lights unless there is a compelling need for white light. The lamps don't last as long as the other options and it seems the newer pulse start ballasts go though ignitors pretty quickly unless you are VERY diligent about changing the lamp. Up to about 100w there are ceramic metal halide lamps that have very good CRI and a nice boost in efficiency compared to the more common quartz metal halide, they are quite a bit more expensive though.

HPS is pretty good, efficiency is about the same as most of the LED stuff out there. Ballast failures are few and far between. Lamps will usually last 6-8 years running dusk-dawn.

I still like the old mercury vapor lights. They aren't quite as efficient as the other options but they just last forever. I know of many MV security lights that probably haven't been touched in the last two decades, they just keep working. The downside is the fixtures are not made anymore and the lamp quality is not as good as it used to be. Back in the 80's you could get lamps that would do 20+ years without dimming out. Today the lamps will last about as long as an HPS before they start to noticeably dim.

 

[MopardudeWI]

Good info guys.

I guess I should have stated I do have LED floods for when I want light for working or cleaning the driveway of snow in the winter and whatever else. My idea of switching to LED was mainly energy efficiency as this light is on all night. During the winter months that could mean the light is on more than it is off.

 

[Bretny]

For a light that could be on for over 12hrs a day i would look into LED just for the energy savings.

 

[lakelandcat]

You can still buy 2 bulb dusk to dawn fixtures that will accept LED flood bulbs. These can be adjusted to 180 degrees at any angle. Bulbs are anywhere from 65-250w equivalent and can be different colors (soft white , warm white, bright white and daylight). The 250w daylight will blind you. LED uses far less power and they last longer. The only problems I have had is the DD sensors will go out after a couple of years, but they are available at big box stores. Still a lot cheaper than a $80 ballast.