Security System to the New Garage

[brownsl]

I have a garage being built. It is detached with electric. I am also going to have my security system extended to the building. Can I lay the cable for the security system in the same trench with the electric. I am assuming there would be interference and I would need to take precautions. Is there a special cable I could use for the security system such that I can use the same trench? Or can I use conduit to keep the signal clean?

 

[cowboyjosh]

You can use the same trench, but per code you cannot run low volt with line voltage in the same conduit. Youll want a seperate conduit anyways for RG6, cat5e, etc. I suggest running all wires between buildings in conduit, far as i know they dont make a direct burial UL listed security cable. While im at it i suggest Ademco or DMP alarm panels if your in the market for a new panel.

 

[Miltons Bells]

A separate conduit is needed for the low-voltage cable. If you are concerned about EMT interference from the adjacent high voltage cables use a shielded low-voltage cable for your home security system.

A shielded cable is a cable that has a thin foil jacket between the cable sheath and the wires themselves. You may also want to do some research regarding grounding the metallic shielding on one of the ends.

 

[jhelrey]

I went WIRELESS!

 

[cowboyjosh]

I went WIRELESS!

Wireless is great, sometimes though even the best high gain wireless can get "flaky" in various distance situations, or if the detached building is un-heated (wireless transmitters don't like getting too cold, cold also screws with the battery supervision). I've also heard that building to building wireless can get cranky during thunderstorms.

On a detached if you can go hardwired, thats the best option; wireless done right is a option when adding security or fire protection as a retrofit after original construction.

One thing I forgot to add, make sure you home run wire for a bell and keypad to your detached.

 

[slimpickins]

I recommend using a direct burial cable for this. See attached photos. (sorry they are blurry-Just took them with my blackberry). Check your local code but I think you can run these in the same trench with your high voltage. One of them might need to be in conduit. I think this cable is made by General Cable and Communications (I'm guessing that's what the "GCC" on the cable stands for.). Check with your local wire supply company. This is a very durable cable used by phone companies. It contains 6 pair, is Cat 5e compliant, and is fully shielded. The armor is a very heavy outer sheath, with a full aluminum shield, then the cables are cased in a silicon grease that does not harden. Underground rodents do not like to chew on this cable.

It is available with different numbers of conductors for what ever you need. I used it for signal wire to my driveway gate (150 ft. +/-) It has worked great. I am using intercom and gate function controls, and I have a couple of conductors left over for an IP Camera and sensors. This cable will work great for alarm sensors.

I would also recommend laying a 3/4" or 1" poly pipe in your trench for future expansion. Its cheap and you can use a vacuum to **** a string through and pull additional wires any time.

You may also want to think about high voltage controls ... i.e. do you need to turn a light on at the garage from in the house. If so, you either need to lay the additional wires in your high voltage conduit, (or use direct burial cable - and make sure to go with a sufficient gauge wire), or look into some type of remote system such as Smarthome Insteon controls. I ran a #10-3 UG rated cable and the GCC cable pictured, and I use Insteon controls from Smarthome, and I have all the controls communications and sensors I need.

 

[Hud]

I went WIRELESS!

What wireless system did you use?

 

[JDF-Texas]

My shop is ~200 feet from the house and the alarm company installed a wireless Motion Detector. It's linked to the house alarm and passes through the shop wall and 2 brick walls without a problem. They set it up as a separate "Zone" so it acts like a Door or Window Sensor. That way it can be use whether the alarm is set for "Home" or "Away". I just replaced the batteries that were over 5 years old and it was still working but I thought it was time to change them.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Assuming you're going to have your security company do the work, check with them first to find out what kinds and amounts of cable you need to have installed. There will probably be cables for a keypad, door and window sensors, heat/fire sensors, an alarm horn and maybe other stuff. I think the best choice will be to install an empty conduit and then let them pull in what they need. Make sure the conduit is big enough.

 

[brownsl]

Thanks for all the advice. I am definitely going with hard-wired. I currently have an HAI system and do not want to mess with wireless.

There is a lot to think about with respect what to lay down. I think putting conduit is a smart idea but I am not sure how it will work. Obviously, between the two buildings is not an issue but how to get the conduit into each of the buildings?

I definitely want to keep my options open for running additional cable later.

 

[cowboyjosh]

Thanks for all the advice. I am definitely going with hard-wired. I currently have an HAI system and do not want to mess with wireless.

There is a lot to think about with respect what to lay down. I think putting conduit is a smart idea but I am not sure how it will work. Obviously, between the two buildings is not an issue but how to get the conduit into each of the buildings?

I definitely want to keep my options open for running additional cable later.

Yeah, hardwired is the way to go especially since your digging a trench and laying conduit already.

As for penetrating both buildings, well your going to have to drill into both buildings thats a given. Going into your house, go into the basement or as close as you can to your alarm panel and CATV, Telco, demarc, as possible; use an LB and the proper fittings and you'll be fine. If you want to leave the low volt conduit vacant for future pulls I suggest installing a pull string to make wire pulls likity split. When running the low voltage conduit install at least 1 size bigger then you think you'll need, you'd be surprised to know how quick a high quality RG6 cable, Cat5e, and a few security wires can fill up a conduit.