Seeking advice fabricating a mount

[zeliboba]

I need to fabricate some kind of a mount for my battery, and not sure what the best approach is here

There are two complications:

1. center of battery rests on the floor "hump"

2. I don't want to drill through the floor, meaning that the studs should be pointing up, so nuts go on top of the battery bracket

Also that floor metal is very thing

The car will have full interior/carpet

what would be the best approach here?

 

[Kaizen]

Do something like this. You can cage a bolt instead of a nut if you wish.
As a bones it can keep the battery up for a little air under it.

https://www.classicindustries.com/p...MIifikr7e87wIVAp2zCh0YpAI6EAQYASABEgIurvD_BwE


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[APEowner]

I'd run some 1 x 1/8" flat stock from the raised portion of the floor that the front factory seat mounts attach to back to the cross bar you added for the rear mounts to form a bottom strap. I'd weld nuts to the bottom side of those straps to bolt the top straps to.

 

[zeliboba]

actually I am still on stock seat mounts, second pic is just for reference

I wanted to fabricate seat mounts like in my rally car, but this car will have full interior and putting carpet on top of these would be a pain

 

[BD1]

What about welding threaded rod couplings to floor and screw threaded rod into them.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...rTUSYTQikx9IrJBxFj8aAib3EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[zeliboba]

interesting idea

my concern is that I am welding to a very thin sheet metal (floor) and I am not sure it can withstand the acceleration/braking G-forces

at the same time I am trying to keep the mounts/battery as low as possible

 

[JeepJohn62]

interesting idea

my concern is that I am welding to a very thin sheet metal (floor) and I am not sure it can withstand the acceleration/braking G-forces

at the same time I am trying to keep the mounts/battery as low as possible

I am not fully understanding the final configuration you are looking for. Have you considered welding or riveting some 16 gauge sheet metal in place as a sheet metal doubler for the mounting supports? Just a thought. Best wishes.

Sent from my SM-A102U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[DTE]

Just curious about the battery in the drivers compartment ?

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I'd personally weld an overlay piece the same thickness as the "hump" on either side. I would incorporate 2 threaded studs to each overlay. The battery would have sufficient support from the bottom, the surface area of the mount would be more widely distributed on the sheet metal floor, and the hold down would be easily removed with 4 nuts.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Just curious about the battery in the drivers compartment ?

I'm not as concerned with that if it's not a wet battery as many cars come with similar configurations from the factory. Obviously, battery disconnect should be located in an easily accessed place.

 

[Kaizen]

interesting idea

my concern is that I am welding to a very thin sheet metal (floor) and I am not sure it can withstand the acceleration/braking G-forces

at the same time I am trying to keep the mounts/battery as low as possible

You don’t think it’s sturdy enough for a battery and you are racing it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BD1]

interesting idea

my concern is that I am welding to a very thin sheet metal (floor) and I am not sure it can withstand the acceleration/braking G-forces

at the same time I am trying to keep the mounts/battery as low as possible

OK, don't weld it then. Drill hole and bolt the threaded rod coupling to floor.
You can upgrade to 3/8" too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[zeliboba]

I'd personally weld an overlay piece the same thickness as the "hump" on either side. I would incorporate 2 threaded studs to each overlay. The battery would have sufficient support from the bottom, the surface area of the mount would be more widely distributed on the sheet metal floor, and the hold down would be easily removed with 4 nuts.

I think this seems to be the best solution, I have 2mm thick steel that I could use for this

for threaded studs, because I only have 2mm of thickness to play with, I am thinking I could make threaded holes, screw the studs in 1mm and use weld it from underneath to make it flat, than weld those places on the floor

does this sound reasonable?


and to address the electrical comments, yes there will be an inline breaker switch (pictured) and I will also have a master cut-off swtich, I haven't decided whether it is best to cut positive or negative - the idea is to be able to kill the engine, and disconnect when storing the car over the winter so the battery doesn't drain

 

[Bodj Built]

I'd personally weld an overlay piece the same thickness as the "hump" on either side. I would incorporate 2 threaded studs to each overlay. The battery would have sufficient support from the bottom, the surface area of the mount would be more widely distributed on the sheet metal floor, and the hold down would be easily removed with 4 nuts.

Bingo. This plus some type of nice battery tray and you'll be solid.

https://www.barnes4wd.com/Battery-Box_c_28.html

https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections/ballistic-fabrication-battery-boxes

https://www.kartek.com/parts-categories/battery-boxes.html

https://kingoffroadparts.com/battery-boxes/

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/BatteryBoxes.html

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I think this seems to be the best solution, I have 2mm thick steel that I could use for this

for threaded studs, because I only have 2mm of thickness to play with, I am thinking I could make threaded holes, screw the studs in 1mm and use weld it from underneath to make it flat, than weld those places on the floor

does this sound reasonable?

I wouldn't bother threading the holes, just weld the studs on. If you look at some of the sheet metal battery boxes (very common in off road) that Bodj linked to, you will see that they are fairly thin sheet metal and are very durable. We run dual Odyssey batteries that appear to be the same size as yours using one of these mounts. The batteries themselves are rather lightweight, so it doesn't take much to hold them securely.

 

[MP&C]

Did these for the Biederman truck a couple-three years ago..


https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5838008&postcount=1962


https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5842169&postcount=1967

 

[Slednut]

Made this one, there are steel wedges that bolt to the inside which hold the battery in.