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Seeking advice issues with contractor

Kevin54

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First off, I would have never installed a metal roof over strapping. If you had the roof installed over OSB, that would have isolated any moisture, cold, and heat building up against the insulation. But that's just my opinion.
 
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skippydoo

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Oct 28, 2012
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Sussex NJ
UPDATE! After speaking to the spray foam guy and stating " if you don't show up by 12/20, I will have it fixed and then you will hear from my lawyer" they showed up on the 20th. Here at 9am and finished at midnight. They ripped out all of the closed cell and resprayed it using a different foam that has better adhesion? Time will tell , but atleast they fixed it.
 

ant.foste

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Aug 14, 2016
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Maryland
UPDATE! After speaking to the spray foam guy and stating " if you don't show up by 12/20, I will have it fixed and then you will hear from my lawyer" they showed up on the 20th. Here at 9am and finished at midnight. They ripped out all of the closed cell and resprayed it using a different foam that has better adhesion? Time will tell , but atleast they fixed it.

Well that's good news. Did they remove the ceiling to do the work?
 

bullnerd

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Jersey
Congrats! That's a horrible thing to have happen. Good luck, I hope it works out.

I ran my infrared radiant tube heater for one winter with a metal ceiling but no insulation in the ceiling. Heater ran a lot to keep the temp at 65. Some nights I don't think it reached 65. Now with blown in , It stays at 68 (my daughter uses the shop) no problem. Heater hardly runs even on nights in the teens.
 

Marctrees

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Why does the OP not acknowledge that incorporating this "Roloshield" into the sandwich is the entire problem ?

The foam needs to go directly to the steel.

This was said as early as Post #5, then #10, then #13... And yet still few here especially OP seems to understand what the hell happened here.

I sure as hell hope when this was "fixed" that the Rolo was ALL cut out and the new foam went to the STEEL.

So, was it ?

Marc
 
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Marctrees

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And there's more... Located in NJ, in the Winter, having been heated, because of the gap under the steel, inside heated air went around edges and condensation has been forming on the underside of the steel AND soaking into the purlins.

Now, we have it resprayed w CLOSED cell foam ( at least that was by appearance and thickness of the original material)... hence trapping moisture.

I don't recall the typical perm of CC, possibly it will dry soon enough, but seems to me that wood is gonna be possibly subject to mold.

It should have been at least stripped of all foam AND Rolocrap... and let dry w air movement and exchange for some days +, THEN re sprayed.

What a TOTAL Train Wreck.

It was a total lack of knowledge to put in that paper, and additionally crazy that the foam sprayer did not refuse to do the spray job.

Marc
 
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skippydoo

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Well that's good news. Did they remove the ceiling to do the work?
No, they didn't , and that made for a long day as I have scissor truss's . They cut the foam out, removed underlayment and spray foamed.
 
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cosmopedro

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Southwest VT
You should consider finding out what the foam product itself is. Then do your own research by finding the manufacturers written information including their installation instructions and typical details for their product.



This... lots of time it’s the foam, not the installer, and they’re having trouble getting support from the supplier and don’t want to admit it to you.

I’d document the hell out of your situation and see if another spray foam contractor is willing to quote the job for you - then follow redneckcharlie’s advice


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

egdede

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IMNSHO Marctrees is right that the foam should have been applied to the steel, but the OP received a product that cured improperly. That sh!t should have stiffened up on the paper/foil/****. Then the OP would maybe have condensate/mold problems of some sort as Marctrees described. Like cosmopedro said, sometimes the foam don't go off right.
 
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yeldogt

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Jan 2, 2012
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This is an interesting thread .... Not so for the OP I'm sure. I have heard of foam shrinking -- From what I am told it's caused when the foam is applied too quickly -- too thick.. A good foam job goes on in layers starting with a very thin one. You want the first thin layer to fill all the cavities ... if you spray too thick it does not do that. It's obviously quicker to apply thick. The foam will shrink back a small amount. I believe it can also be a mix problem -- but, I was told that a good foam guy can tell right away if the foam mix is off.

If you notice after a job on a 2x6 wall the foam wraps on to the studs on each side of the bay.

The pictures are really not very clear --- when the foam was pushed back in the bay -- how much did it shrink off the studs? From the pictures it looks like it was the foam falling down from the weight. The foam not sticking to or pulling off the underlayment and the small edges of the foam on the studs not holding up the foam in the bay?

I don't know enough about pole buildings -- But, I would never spray to a surface that is not going to be strong -- typical building decking

When I redid the slate roof on my current project we had a couple sections on the one end of the building that required deck replacement due to a leaking chimney -- wide > 1" random boards we were able to remove the boards from the foam ... it's attached .... but it can be removed .. this was thick foam 6" . It's heavier than you would think.
 
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