Seeking advice on building a workshop bench

[JohnMcD348]

OK, I'd like some advice from you folks who live and die by your workbench in the garage. I have a work/storage area on the side of my garage that I want to build a general purpose workbench into.
Here's a shot. Please pardon the mess, we're still moving in.

It measures approx 103"x68". The outlets measure 42" from the floor. I am thinking of building a bench that measures between 60 or 72" by 36". I have a set of plans I got off HammerZone and used it to build a reloading bench and it's worked well for me. I can modify it to work for what I want.

Some other thoughts I have about the bench would be for the underframe to be built so that the table top is about 6-12" over the legs. Also I would either build pull out drawers on both sides or perhaps build one side as a small lockable cabinet with the other side lockable drawers.

What I want from you guys is input on the general design and layout. Do you think 3 feet is too wide? Too Narrow? When building should I go with 4x4 for corner posts or would reinforced 2x4's be fine? I want to be able to install at times things like a vice, bench grinder, electronic equipment, pretty much anything at any time. I'm a pretty much do anything , any time kinda guy. Part carpenter, electrician, mechanic, gardener, whatever else is called for at the moment.

Whatever your thoughts are, I'd like to hear them. This is the first time in my life I've actually got the opportunity to have a real work bench instead of having to use the kitchen table or throwing a board over a set of saw horses when I needed/wanted to do something.

Help a guy get a good start on his garage.

Thanks

 

[bgott]

Since it "your" bench, as in you don't have to build it to accomodate others working on it, build a temporary table and do some simple stuff on it.
After a while, move it up or down. This way you can see how high of a top is comfortable to you. I'm 6'4'', I had to adapt to lower than comfortable equipment heights for years. Every time I tried to jack something up to a comfortable for me level I got chewed out by the shorties. When I finally got my own shop it took a year or two for the concept of "jack it up, stupid, it's yours" to sink into my thick skull. A good start is to measure to the bottom of your arms bent to a 90 degree angle and try the top level there.

 

[JohnMcD348]

Thanks. That's something I really hadn't thought about. I was just going to build it up to the base of the electrical outlets but It really shouldn't matter.

Thanks

 

[hammlm]

I have 36" benchtops. I don't find them too wide, but have heard those comments from other fellas. I'll admit that where my two 36" benches come together at a right angle (**** joint, not mitered) --- it's just about all I can reach into the corner.

But having ~15' feet of 36" wide surface sure is nice in terms of being able to spread out, layout and organize parts, etc. during projects.

 

[Burl]

Don't make it too deep that you have to stretch to get to the outlets. I'm 5'10", my new bench will be 30" deep and 42" high. Build it to fit YOU.

 

[Ray-CA]

Buy yourself something like this (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=97019) and mount it under the work bench. Then mount your "vice, bench grinder, electronic equipment, pretty much anything at any time." to the receiver part of the hitch. Slip the parts together, insert the pin & go to work. When done, take it apart and store the tool out of the way. Great way to "stretch" the size of your work space.

Ray

 

[babzog]

When I built the bench in my workshop, I ignored the plans and set the top at the height of my hips which was the height that felt the most comfortable - no bending over, no reaching, etc. An assembly bench, I'd set much lower, but I wanted my workbench to be comfortable for me and me alone.

For bench depth, I held a tape measure out from the wall at the planned height and decided how wide it should be based on how comfortable it was to reach to the back wall.

Did that a few times over a few weeks so that daily biases didn't affect my judgement. I always ended up with pretty much the same numbers. Those numbers became my new bench.

This is the bench I built. I built two - one wide, one narrow - and fitted a bridge in between where I mounted the mitre saw. The benches become my in/out feed tables. Very sturdy! I used rough sawn 2x6 for the butcher block style top (rather than the raft of 2x4's) and plan to top it with 3/4" ply.

 

[flesburg]

I cheated. 7 feet of unfinished kitchen cabinets from Menards. Screwed together and to studs in the walls. Rock Solid. Then the top is 7 1/2 ft x 25" of unfinished oak flooring. (One bundle) also from Menards. Top is 2 1/4" thick with 1 1/2" of MDF with 3/4" of unfinished oak flooring also from Menards clamped, glued and screwed to the mdf from the bottom.
Finished with 4 coats of tung oil.

Now, I need a vise and an anvil and I'm ready to go to work (sit back and admire?)

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=33972&stc=1&d=1244777878

 

[1320stang]

I would build it 103"x30" and not put in any legs. I'd nail 2x4's to the three walls and either a double 2x4 or a 2x6 across the front, then a 3/4" plywood top flush to the 2x front, add a 2x2x1/8" piece of angle iron to the front edge and put a sacraficial 1/8" masonite top to fit behind the angle iron amd between the walls. If you want to get fancy, put a 1x4 wrap around backsplash (this will limit it's height with your outlets) and caulk this gap before you put the masonite down, that way any possible liquids don't get to the sheetrock.

You could build shelves above it in the same manner depending on how high your ceiling is, the one above your bench you put a couple of 4' shop lights under so you have plenty of bench light. The high ones, use totes for less used stuff.

With no legs under the bench, you could wheel a toolbox base under there, your shop vac, a nice tool cart....

 

[Jack Olsen]

I think the bigger (and sturdier) the better. Mine is 32" deep, and I wish it was deeper. I put drawers underneath and a pair of double-hitch receivers, one on either side. I didn't do cabinets underneath, but put a shelf down there. Keep in mind that you want some front overhang, and some space underneath for your toes when you're standing up against the bench. In your case, I'd try to get a solid door piece (or 1.5-2" of solid wood) going from wall to wall, with as much support as you can engineer along the edge (3" screws into the studs) as well as center supports. I also did a steel edge along the front.

This is the bench before I moved the vise and added the hitch receivers:

I can move the vise and grinder between the two hitch mounts, and I also put the drill press permanently on one side. So far, I've been happy with that.

Here's a closer look at the hitch mounts:

 

[JohnMcD348]

Wow. Thanks alot guys. Great ideas. Especially like the trailer hitch setup for equipment. I'm thinking about possibly doing an "L" shaped work station and not just 1 table on the back wall but maybe another running the length on the wall where the phone hangs. I think for me 42" is just about the right height for me to be comfortable standing or sitting on a stool and working. Also, I would do a back splash and just cut out the area around where the electrical outlets, cable service and switch boxes are located.

I'll be outside this weekend while I'm off so I can seriously sit down and measure and think about what I want and how I want to lay it out. Alot of ideas to put together.

Please keep them coming.

 

[Ramblur]

Some pretty tall ceilings you've got there. Lots of vertical space to address
too with cabinets or shelving(or both). Mine is only 24" deep but is 16' long.

 

[RobSmith]

Nice set up...noticed the goggles hanging by the elastic strap. hang them by the goggle / nose piece. That way the elastic won't stretch and become slack.
Just a tip.

 

[kbs2244]

Go into the kitchen and try it on for size.
Base cabinets are 24 deep and uppers are 12.
That is so it is easy to reach to wall at the back of the counter,
and so you can reach to the wall on the uppers.
Counter tops are in the 32 to 36 inch high range.

If you go deeper or higher plan on useing a step stool.
(I still use the one I sat on before starting grade school.)
Also plan on having a convient "parking place" for it.

My bench is higher than in the kitchen so that I can park my roll around tool boxs under it.
(I keep my boxs under 40 inches tall.)
I do most of my bench work while sitting on that step stool so the extra counter height is not uncomfortable.

 

[1950ChevySuburban]

I didn't see this mentioned earlier, but on my bench I have the wall outlets along the back like you have, and also 3 mounted in front, under the work surface. That way bench clutter doesn't get caught up in the cords when using tools.

I find I never use the outlets in back.

 

[35mastr]

Build it however long and deep that is comfortable to you. I like my benches to be no more than 29-30 inches off the ground. That is perfect height to sit on a bar stool comfortably. I dont like to have to be standing all the time while at a bench. You seem to fatigue alot faster.

Also build it so you can move vises and grinders into the mix when needed. Put some outlets on the front also. Build a rack on one side that will hold all spray cans that are used the most.

I prefer large benches when possible. Mine is 4' wide and 8' long 1/4 plate.

Legs are 3x3 1/8 wall. 6 of them.

Table frame is 2x3 1/8 wall

It is very heavy,But I can build bodies and complete chassis on it.Not to mention I can weld anything to it to make a fixture or a jig if needed.

Build it the way that it will suit you best the first time and you will never look back.

 

[nate379]

Don't make it too tall. I am only 5' 10" and my first setup was around 40" tall. I ended up cutting it down to around 37". I was tired of standing on a step stool do I could work on stuff mounted in the vise.

 

[JohnMcD348]

I kinda like the idea of placing boards on the wall and building the table on it. Also, I keep looking at the space and was thinking that I may build it with 3' on the long side and build a 2' table on the left and have it setup in an "L" shape perhaps. Maybe by the end of the weekend I'll have something set in stone as to how I want to do this. There's just so many ideas and thoughts I have, I just am not sure what I really want and how I really want to do it.

Please keep the ideas coming.

 

[Vinko]

3 mounted in front, under the work surface. That way bench clutter doesn't get caught up in the cords when using tools.

I find I never use the outlets in back.

I like this idea.

 

[kbs2244]

I agree with the outlets on the back wall never being used.
The ones in kitchens are for counter top appliances that are rarely moved.
(tosters, micrwaves, phones, etc.)
The only thing pluged into mine is a few battery chargers I have on a shelf.
I do have one on the wall off to the end of the bench that gets used a lot.

 

[JohnMcD348]

OK, I think(subject to change) what I want to do now I need advice and input.

I'm thinking of using boards mounted to the wall and placing 3/4 plywood over that. I will use 2x6 or 2x 8 boards for the wall mount and 2x4 or 2x6 boards for additional under counter support. I will hang these off the wall boards using standard metal hangers. At the "L" point I will use a standard 4x4 and an additional 4x4 at the short end for leg support.

My thinking for using the 2x8's for the wall portion is that I would be able to better secure the boards to the wall since it has a larger vertical surface and gives me more area to screw them to the concrete on the left and finished wall area studs on the front and to the right.

I'll then use either additional 2x8 or 2x6 boards braced and hung under the counter top area for additional support to prevent any future sagging.

For the actual top I will use 3/4 plywood but now comes my next question. For the sake of strength I am wondering what type of baord is better to use? I looked at Standard Plywood, MDF and OSB and Particle Board. Which type should I use for this? It's in the Garage, it's in Central Florida where it can get VERY HOT!!!! and VERY HUMID!!! even with the garage door closed. Today alone with 90* temps outside it was *118 in the garage at 3pm.

I will be attaching a smooth surface finish board of some type over it and I also will most likely coat all the wood used with Thompson's Water Seal prior to installing it.

 

[GN4WHLN]

I guess you have to decide what you are using your bench for. I prefer welded steel benches with a receiver to mount equipment as necessary. I have one steel bench that is 24x60 That I usually sit at when assembling things. I also have a vice bolted to it and routlets on the front (because I don't like cords across the bench) that are fed through a plug. The table is free standing so I can pull it out (it is a little heavy, But I can do it myself) and work on it when I need more room for the vice, bender, or I am going to do some hammer shaping. That way, The noise doesn't transfer into the house by the bench being fixed to a wall. I also have a 36x36 bench on casters I use for welding that is about waist height because it is comfortable to weld at. I also like the idea of the top overhanging because it allows clamping to the bench.

 

[JohnMcD348]

The table is free standing so I can pull it out (it is a little heavy, But I can do it myself) and work on it when I need more room for the vice, bender, or I am going to do some hammer shaping. That way, The noise doesn't transfer into the house by the bench being fixed to a wall.

OK, that just stopped the idea of mounting it to the wall. The other side is the family room so I can see some hard feelings with the wife when I'm using the bench when restoring my old Cushmans or some other noisy grinding, banging, cutting or just me expressing my thoughts on why something isn't going the way I planned it....

I'm so glad I posted this. It's given me alot of thought and rethought about this bench I'm going to build.

Please keep the opinions coming. I want all the input I can get on this.

 

[Justanoldguy]

I just used some old solid core hospital door for my bench.
Cut a few up for the uprights as well. Some still have the old round portholes in them.

.

 

[tcianci]

Putting the bench top on cleats attached to the existing wall is a very simple way of building your bench. You should pick a height that is comfortable to stand and work at. If you think you might want to sit at your bench, check out the standard height of stools, etc. 42 inches is a nice working height for standing and that is a standard height that stools are built for. For example... a 30 inch tall stool is designed to work with a 42 inch work surface height. One other thing, however you build your bench take into consideration that your bench vise needs to be mounted such that the stationary jaw surface is no less than in-line with the front edge of the bench top. This allows you to clamp tall things vertically without them running in to the work surface. Since this location is sort of dictated by your vise, be sure that you dont have some massive support under the bench top right where the bolts need to go to hold the vise. Or worse, having that support halfway where a bolt would go through... been there, done that, had to add some extra wood so that I could come up with a "whole" hole!

 

[strnge]

I am building my bench free standing from the wall to keep the transfer of sound I will be making while working on my bench down to a minimum. I don't want the walls vibrating upstairs where the family is.

 

[JohnMcD348]

OK, I think I finally decided to build the workbench from the HammerZone plans. I did a modified build using these plans when I built my Reloading bench last year and it's worked out really well. I'll do the same for this one. That way it's free standing so I don't have to deal with noise transfer into the house and I can build it with low mounted rollers to allow it to be moved if wanted. I will probably still build it to about the length of the wall and just not build a second smaller bench for the other side. I'm thinking about building it with a 48" surface so that it will be wide enough so that so that I can still mount something like a small vice or grinder on the front without worrying about it tipping.

Now, I was looking at building materials the other day and was wondering about the wood for the table surface. For the sake of strength, which should I go with figuring on using 3/4" with at least a 6"-1' over hang off the front. I looked at Standard Plywood, MDF, OSB and Particle Board. Which type should I use for this? It's in the Garage, it's in Central Florida where it can get VERY HOT!!!! and VERY HUMID!!! even with the garage door closed. I'll be laying a piece of plain white counter top Formica type covering over it when it's done but what should I go with to give me the best results for the main top?

 

[strnge]

Which hammerzone plans?

 

[tcianci]

All of the materials you have noted will make good bench tops, withthe plywood probably at the top of the list as far as strength is concerned in the area of your 6 inch to one foot overhang in the front. The most important thing you need to do if you plan to laminate the worksurface in a humid condition is to likewise laminate the back surface of the benchtop, otherwise the laminated surface will keep moisture out on the top and the unproteceted underside will absorb moisture and cause the worksurface to warp. Check out some laminated furniture or table tops, they use a formica-like backer sheet on the underside, it looks like the back side of regular formica. Its' purpose is to stabilize the moisture absorbtion so that the top stay flat.

If strength is not your major concern, you may do well with a sheet of melamine board. It is particle board that comes pre-surfaced with a melamine plastic finish on both sides. Places that sell it usually sell a matching hot-melt applied edge banding to finish the edges. Melamine is the same plastic that formica and other laminates are made of.

 

[JohnMcD348]

Thanks for the input. I will plan on laminating both side of the plywood and possibly even trimming the edges as well. I want to have as strong of a work surface as possible without resorting to a full metal table. The plans I'll be using from Hammerzone are for the $20 work bench plans http://hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/bench/below20xl.html. I used them as the basis to build my reloading bench and with a few minor modifications, it has been a very good and sturdy bench for even the heavier large caliber loads on both my single stage and progressive press. I can reload 30-06 and 303 all day without so much as a wobble. I figure by adding about another foot to the width, it should give me plenty of room to work and allow for any heavy objects I may mount off the edge like the grinder via a trailer hitch mount like was shown in a previous post here.

 

[SportFury59]

All good ideas. In my house garage I have workbench like I think you are planning. I have shelves under the work top that collect clutter and is very hard to find anything under there.
I am currently building a detached garage and plan on having a workbench so that I can have 2 movable cabinets that fit underneath the bench so when I have to find something I can just roll out cabinet and also the cabinet top will serve as another work surface.
I will probably get the cabinets from Sams Club (shown on a current thread.) Will probably buy the workbench too.
If I were to make my own workbench I would look into using the melamine pieces. The stuff they sell here already has the edging on the front edge.

 

[birdman1]

I have a wiremold outlet strip on the front of my workbench and keep drills and dremel tools always plugged into outlet. I make drill "holsters from pvc pipe and scred these to the bench. You just pick up a drill and get to work. The holsters keep some clutter off the bench and are always where you can find them.
later Mike

 

[JohnMcD348]

That's a good idea. Between my Dremel, cordless screw driver/drill(s) it wouldn't be a bad idea to keep them handy.

Another idea I got from looking through the site is instead of using plywood for the top, perhaps using 2x6 or 2x8 board layed side to side. I was looking through and found a site called American Work Bench and I kinda liked the way they looked and the top looked. Other than the probability of it being a pain to clean out between the planks any other down side to this design idea? Would I probably be better off staying with the 3/4 plywood? Maybe doing a double layer of plywood for strength?

 

[koolkev12]

Just an idea. What about using a solid core door. Seems like it would be stronger than plywood.

 

[rieferman]

some really good ideas here

sportfury wrote

In my house garage I have workbench like I think you are planning. I have shelves under the work top that collect clutter and is very hard to find anything under there.
I am currently building a detached garage and plan on having a workbench so that I can have 2 movable cabinets that fit underneath the bench so when I have to find something I can just roll out cabinet and also the cabinet top will serve as another work surface.

I love that idea, going to steal that.

----
Anyone else planning (or has already built) a tool/fastener area with very shallow counter tops?

I'm planning an area in a nook where the counter will be only 12 inches deep by about 4 feet wide. The area above the shelf will be tools and fasteners, the area below will be parts (such as handles/hinges) etc. The idea is that when I'm doing my figuring out, I like to be able to get really close up to the bins and thumb through various spares etc. Therefore the shallow counter.

 

[tcianci]

Solid core doors make great worksurfaces and you can paint or laminate them as well. Just be aware that the term "solid" is a relative one...They are solid as opossed to hollow but far from solid when it comes to their ability to resist crushing when through-bolting a tool like a bench vise or grinder. The cores are usually very low density particle board and will crush when you through bolt stuff to it unless you use a nice healthy washer to distribute the clamping force over a larger area of the door. The doors do have a wood perimeter frame that contains the core material and sometimes a "lock block" also made of wood. The purpose of the frame and the lock block is provide solid wood in the door for mounting hinges and locksets.

 

[Ray-CA]

That's a good idea. Between my Dremel, cordless screw driver/drill(s) it wouldn't be a bad idea to keep them handy.

Another idea I got from looking through the site is instead of using plywood for the top, perhaps using 2x6 or 2x8 board layed side to side. I was looking through and found a site called American Work Bench and I kinda liked the way they looked and the top looked. Other than the probability of it being a pain to clean out between the planks any other down side to this design idea? Would I probably be better off staying with the 3/4 plywood? Maybe doing a double layer of plywood for strength?

I built one using 2x4's on edge. Didn't want the rounded edge though so I ran one edge through my jointer. Glued the whole herd together and clamped it until dry. Extremely solid, sanded it down a bit and when it got too beat up to sand down, just made another one.

Ray

 

[bugdust]

Here's mine:

It is 10' x 24" deep. I want to say it is 38" tall but I don't remember. The legs are 4x4, the frame is 2x4 and the top and shelf are 3/4" plywood. I used a router to round the edges and then 3 coats of polyurethane (or similar? not done yet in this pic) I have turned the drill press since this pic. I think I have 6" of overhang. I left one side open underneath to store larger items (has 2 VW engines under it right now) and the shelf was positioned to hold the Rubbermaid tubs on & below the shelf. I stand and move quite a bit while working but I also have a barstool there. I think the bench cost me about $60 in materials. It is all screwed together, no nails. It is fastened to the metal building frame with metal L-brackets and self-tapping screws. The shelf above is a 2x12.

What would I do different? I would go at least 30" deep, maybe 36. With the pegboard behind it and the bins and accumulated junk it doesn't leave much space to work. It has become more of a junk collector than a workbench. I would like more outlets since all 8 are taken up by 2 fans, radio, grinder, drill press, fridge and 2 battery chargers. having a couple outlets on the front would be great to keep cords from being draped across the workspace. Drawers would be great. I have thought about putting doors on the shelf to keep dust and such out. I'd also like another light above the workbench.

 

[JohnMcD348]

That's actually real close to what I was envisioning for my work bench. Half of it open and the other side shelved for additional storage. Either using 2x4's boxed or on corners or just doing using the 4x4 for.