Seeking Air Compressor Recommendations

[spectre6000]

It's finally time to get shop air! I've been reading up on the subject for the past week or so, and looking into what is available, but I'm not really liking what I'm finding so much. I have 120V@20A only (kind of a major limitation), and need to be able to power the usual mechanics tools, but I'd like to be able to get a blast cabinet and do very occasional media blasting. The goal is CFM@(usable)PSI. My power supply can handle around ~2.5hp (assuming a half hp bump for inrush current), but I don't see much in between 2hp and 5hp. I don't want something that's going to die after a few hours' use, but I also don't want to spend a fortune.

This guy:

Husky 30 Gal. 175 PSI Oil Lubed Belt Drive Portable Vertical Electric Air Compressor C304H - The Home Depot

Finish your sanding and painting work easily with the selection of this Husky 2-Oil Lubed Belt Drive Portable Vertical Electric Air Compressor.

www.homedepot.com

has a lot of marketing **** to parse (see the "2-STAGE PERFORMANCE" sticker on the obviously single stage pump), but if the hard specs are to be believed, it's capable of 6.2CFM@90PSI with a 175PSI max (extra air in the tank for battery purposes). An extra large backup tank could conceivably be used for extra storage when I attempt the higher capacity uses if I can find a dead one on CL/FBMP.

I also found a used Craftsman on FBMP that has similar specs for a much lower price, but some of the specs are truly unbelievable, plus there's the unknown that comes from used and unknown prior care and feeding.

Finally, I just stumbled on this guy:

https://www.northerntool.com/products/quincy-single-stage-portable-electric-air-compressor-2-hp-24-gallon-vertical-7-4-cfm-model-q12124vpq-105043

The specs are better, and mostly more believable than the Husky. The 7.4CFM@100PSI is very nice, but the 125psi limit is pretty low. Much higher hour rating (6K to the Husky's 1K). A bit more expensive, but might be worth it.

And that's all I've come up with so far. I have a pretty extreme limiting factor in the power availability, but that limitation is actually a bit helpful on the price side. Does anyone know of anything that can beat the Husky within the power limitations? Is there an alternative way to be able to get blast cabinet/media blasting capability?

 

[dnschmidt]

Dreams are great. Reality often bites. We get this question at least once a week and the answer never changes. If you want to blast you need a 7.5 HP two stage 80 gallon compressor and likely a refrigerated air dryer if you live anywhere except in the desert which I do. If money is no object a gas or diesel engine compressor will deliver the air you require. There is a reason body shops have large screw compressors and that's because they NEED them. Air powered anything is very inefficient. I have a big compressor and use Air Vantage air sanders all the time. These require 15 SCFM at 90 PSI and keep my 5HP 80 gallon Quincy compressor running constantly as do my SATA spray guns that use a similar quantity of air. That's 30 Amps at 240 Volts verses 4 amps at 120 volts for an electric sander.

 

[spectre6000]

That that question, and its resultant answer, are so frequently asked ad given is why I didn't ask that question.

The question I asked could be restated more succinctly as: What's the best possible compressor for (the above) within the constraints of 120V@20A?

 

[Renegade1LI]

Unfortunately your kinda limited at 110v, look at some of the Makita units, there aimed at jobsite power & are HD.

 

[GeoBruin]

That that question, and its resultant answer, are so frequently asked ad given is why I didn't ask that question.

The question I asked could be restated more succinctly as: What's the best possible compressor for (the above) within the constraints of 120V@20A?

The Quincy you posted is the answer. It is simply the highest flow 120 volt compressor available. The only alternative (which is a good one if you can find it) is another version of the same machine. The Napa version of the same machine has historically sold for much less than the Quincy. They have since rebranded them with the Carlyle name and those are going for almost what the Quincy does.

In any case, pay no attention to the paint color, they're all made by Atlas Copco. A previous (slightly better in my opinion) version of the machine was also sold under the Belaire name. The current beast deal on the machine is from yet another rebrand under the Chicago Pneumatic name, but shop around as shipping can be a gotcha.

I owned the Quincy version (2 of them actually) and they will actually flow as much as they say they will. They will also draw darn near 20 amps at close to max pressure, but I never once popped a 20 amp breaker. They're not quiet, but not any worse than a 5hp import compressor spinning a million rpm. They are actually quite portable too. Keep in mind you will be limited to the connection that comes out of the pressure switch/regulator unit as there are no other bungs on the tank in the newest version.

You've read all the comments about how you need a 7.5 hp 80 gallon 2 stage monster to blast and paint, but in reality, you fit your equipment to your air supply and you can actually do quite a bit, it jsut takes longer and you work at smaller scales. For example, the popular Skat S-35 series gun comes in three versions which really means three different size jet/tip combinations with the small version rated at 4-8 cfm. You won't be stripping large parts in a single go, but you can get work done. I had that gun and the HF benchtop blast cabinet with a home brew metering valve and I blasted a ton of parts.

Painting is similar. There are setups with lower air requirements and that's the direction you should lean with a smaller compressor. But again, you will have to go slower, although, in my experience, not that much slower than I (as an amateur painter) go anyway.

I'll leave you with one last nugget which is that if you have two circuits. In your workspace, consider 2 smaller compressors plumbed in parallel or even something like the Quincy with a smaller "peaker" compressor.

If I were in your situation with two 120 volt circuits, I'd probably pick up a couple CAT or HF Fortress compressors for about what you'd pay for the Quincy. You'd make closer to 10 cfm, it would be a lot quieter, and when you just need to air up tires or blow off your workbench, you only need to run 1.

 

[spectre6000]

The Quincy you posted is the answer. It is simply the highest flow 120 volt compressor available. The only alternative (which is a good one if you can find it) is another version of the same machine. The Napa version of the same machine has historically sold for much less than the Quincy. They have since rebranded them with the Carlyle name and those are going for almost what the Quincy does.

In any case, pay no attention to the paint color, they're all made by Atlas Copco. A previous (slightly better in my opinion) version of the machine was also sold under the Belaire name. The current beast deal on the machine is from yet another rebrand under the Chicago Pneumatic name, but shop around as shipping can be a gotcha.

I owned the Quincy version (2 of them actually) and they will actually flow as much as they say they will. They will also draw darn near 20 amps at close to max pressure, but I never once popped a 20 amp breaker. They're not quiet, but not any worse than a 5hp import compressor spinning a million rpm. They are actually quite portable too. Keep in mind you will be limited to the connection that comes out of the pressure switch/regulator unit as there are no other bungs on the tank in the newest version.

You've read all the comments about how you need a 7.5 hp 80 gallon 2 stage monster to blast and paint, but in reality, you fit your equipment to your air supply and you can actually do quite a bit, it jsut takes longer and you work at smaller scales. For example, the popular Skat S-35 series gun comes in three versions which really means three different size jet/tip combinations with the small version rated at 4-8 cfm. You won't be stripping large parts in a single go, but you can get work done. I had that gun and the HF benchtop blast cabinet with a home brew metering valve and I blasted a ton of parts.

Painting is similar. There are setups with lower air requirements and that's the direction you should lean with a smaller compressor. But again, you will have to go slower, although, in my experience, not that much slower than I (as an amateur painter) go anyway.

I'll leave you with one last nugget which is that if you have two circuits. In your workspace, consider 2 smaller compressors plumbed in parallel or even something like the Quincy with a smaller "peaker" compressor.

If I were in your situation with two 120 volt circuits, I'd probably pick up a couple CAT or HF Fortress compressors for about what you'd pay for the Quincy. You'd make closer to 10 cfm, it would be a lot quieter, and when you just need to air up tires or blow off your workbench, you only need to run 1.

Brilliant! Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for, and the sort of response that makes GJ what it is!

I only have the one circuit, and it's a fairly long run from the building with the breaker that makes me a touch leery of pulling at the top of the circuit's capacity. If I get the compressor from NAPA, and it can't run without tripping the breaker, I should have no trouble returning it.

Looking through the specs on the above listed compressors, I know that manufacturers can change little parts here and there to get different specs and different price points. I'm seeing the ratings in the above at 7.1CFM@90PSI, 7.1CFM@100PSI, 7.4CFM@90PSI, and 7.4CFM@100PSI (that's NAPA, Carlyle, CP, and Quincy respectively). Is that a difference in some component or another, noise in the test protocol, or just liberties taken with specs?

I was thinking in similar stretching terms re: giving myself a longer work session time between compressor runs by giving myself more storage via a second tank with a valve between them for when I don't need the extra capacity. The single bung issue could be a problem, but seems like it should be easily solved in this context if/when it becomes an issue with some clever arrangements of fittings.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

An extra tank will let you work longer, but also take longer to recover. The 175 PSI compressors I've seen took a long time and never got to 175 PSI.

 

[GeoBruin]

Brilliant! Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for, and the sort of response that makes GJ what it is!

I only have the one circuit, and it's a fairly long run from the building with the breaker that makes me a touch leery of pulling at the top of the circuit's capacity. If I get the compressor from NAPA, and it can't run without tripping the breaker, I should have no trouble returning it.

Looking through the specs on the above listed compressors, I know that manufacturers can change little parts here and there to get different specs and different price points. I'm seeing the ratings in the above at 7.1CFM@90PSI, 7.1CFM@100PSI, 7.4CFM@90PSI, and 7.4CFM@100PSI (that's NAPA, Carlyle, CP, and Quincy respectively). Is that a difference in some component or another, noise in the test protocol, or just liberties taken with specs?

I was thinking in similar stretching terms re: giving myself a longer work session time between compressor runs by giving myself more storage via a second tank with a valve between them for when I don't need the extra capacity. The single bung issue could be a problem, but seems like it should be easily solved in this context if/when it becomes an issue with some clever arrangements of fittings.

I can't know for sure why the specs are different across the board. Probably a combination of the factors you listed. That said, the difference is small enough to likely go unnoticed, even if it's real. Also, there is likely to be a variation between individual machines that roll off the same line that exceeds the variations you're noting between "brands".

Here's a picture of the sticker from mine.

Yes, you could get creative with either the fitting entering the tank from the pump or even the drain if you wanted to plumb in another tank, but be careful with adding too much capacity. I doubt it's rated for continuous duty so at some point you could nuke it.

Edit: I found a picture of the motor tag. It looks like it is rated for continuous use which I now remember being one of the selling points of this model I've some of the competitors in the size range. Also, the FLA is listed at 15A so my recollection of it nearly maxing out may have been 15 amps and not 20, though I swear I put a clamp meter on it and it tested closer to 20.

 

[Citation]

While I don't agree that you *need* a 7.5hp compressor to run a blast cabinet, I think trying to run one with a single 120V, 20A circuit could be a losing proposition.

Can you put a 3-5hp compressor in the house and run a hose to the shop? This also isn't ideal but if you have plenty of power in the house this might be better overall. The extra power available via a 240V circuit will make a big difference. A 60gal, 3hp compressor is basically the same price as a 30 gal 120V belt drive unit.

Going a bit further with the above idea, get a smaller 120V compressor with a similar pressure range as the 3-5hp compressor located in the house. Run hose from house to smaller compressor. The small compressor can run in series with the big compressor. Net result is you get the flow of both pumps. The small compressor acts as a surge tank for the bigger system.

That dual compressor idea is probably overkill but a 240V compressor + long hose is almost certainly going to work better and likely cost little more than a high end 120V unit.

 

[spectre6000]

Digging around on the Chicago Pneumatic option. It looks like the RCP-224VP might have been discontinued and replaced with the RCP-226VP. I know that I don't know a ton about air compressors yet, but I can tell the pump casting is different from the RCP-224VP. The fan is shrouded rather than caged, which is more fragile, but likely better for cooling. The tank reads as 26 vs 24 gallons. The motor looks slightly different. And so on, and so forth. Any insight? Is this an instance where I should try to find the previous model, or look for the new one?

 

[GeoBruin]

Digging around on the Chicago Pneumatic option. It looks like the RCP-224VP might have been discontinued and replaced with the RCP-226VP. I know that I don't know a ton about air compressors yet, but I can tell the pump casting is different from the RCP-224VP. The fan is shrouded rather than caged, which is more fragile, but likely better for cooling. The tank reads as 26 vs 24 gallons. The motor looks slightly different. And so on, and so forth. Any insight? Is this an instance where I should try to find the previous model, or look for the new one?

When I was researching the difference, I felt like the conclusion I reached is that they made some cost-cutting changes between the two models, but I don't remember what all they were. For one thing, they went from a cast iron pump to an aluminum pump with a cast iron liner. I also found the cage to be kind of fiddly and add to the noise the thing makes when running. I always felt like I would have preferred the shroud but can't know because I never saw the old model up close. Finally, I feel like maybe the tank for the older model was made in the US whereas they finally got around to outsourcing it with the "upgrade". I could be wrong on that last point however.

 

[Citation]

OP, how long is the AC line from the house to the shop? I don't recall the details but if the line is long you need to derate the current carrying limit. So if you have say 100ft of wire between the breaker and the outlet a 20A circuit may be limited to some reduced current load to avoid excessive voltage drop.

When I moved into my current place I had an issue like that. While the underground wire to the garage was 12g/3 conductor, the connection at the house was to older 14 gauge wire. My 4 gallon roofing compressor would drop line voltage to 96V during start up. Once I saw that I stopped using the compressor until I setup a MWBC from the panel to the garage. At least now I have 2, 120V circuits.

 

[Terra Nova]

Wow that Quincy is impressive for 120v. Had not heard on that one before. I was going to recommend the Ingersoll compressor.

I have an older Husky (Campbell Hausfeld) 30 gallon 135 psi 120v. It’s limited for die grinders, sanders, etc but runs most mechanic / shop tools fine.

https://www.northerntool.com/products/ingersoll-rand-single-stage-portable-electric-air-compressor-2-hp-20-gallon-5-5-cfm-garage-mate-model-p1-5iu-a9-1592073

 

[spectre6000]

The run from the breaker to the barn is far enough to make me doubt that I'm getting a full 20A out there. I haven't measured it though. We had to completely replace the septic system a few years back, and the driveway got dug up. While it was torn apart, I replaced the wires running out there with what the electrician said was enough to ensure everything was happy out there electrically. Still, I tend to err on the cautious side. The CP motor doesn't get close enough to worry me, and I'm the only one out there. Aside from lights (just did the math on those at ~2A), shouldn't be anything else to tempt the limits of the circuit.

Just pulled the trigger on the CP. GeoBruin's link was the best price I could find, though it went UP $17 between now and then, which is pretty obnoxious. I found a 10% coupon (signed up for emails in the footer at the bottom of the page) to make up for it. The $100 shipping charge is pretty slimy, but out the door was cheaper than the Husky I linked up there would have been before tax. I was about to pull the trigger on the Husky before I remembered how awesome GJ was at this sort of thing, and I'm glad I didn't! I probably saved around $100, and got a much better compressor for it.

 

[spectre6000]

Air compressor arrived a few hours ago. Came with some Quincy branded/addressed documentation in case there was any doubt re: provenance. Did a 30 minute no-load break in, and about to go down and get ancillaries to start breaking in the other new tools! Excited to finally have shop air!

 

[GeoBruin]

Pics once you get it set up!

 

[spectre6000]

I'm figuring out hose reels and connectors and such now. The local pickin's are slim. I'm itching to give it a good workout! Jeep is mid-regear in wait!

 

[spectre6000]

My hose reel arrived yesterday, but it was clearly a botched return... The base had clearly been mounted and over torqued with some manner of destructive locking washer. The big problem was that it appears someone tried to over-extend the hose at high speed, bent the fittings between the reel axle and hose, ripped the hose out of said fittings, which were under pressure and explosively slammed into the inside of the reel, shattering the brass of the hose end and embedding it into the steel of the inner rim of the reel, and somehow also screwing up the paint all over the hub. This clearly caused sealing problems between the fittings and hub, so they tried copious amounts of teflon tape to reseal it, which must not have worked, so they returned it to the store, which then shipped it to me...

 

[spectre6000]

Pics once you get it set up!

Not the most photogenic setup, but it's functional! I'm in the middle of unloading a bunch of stuff (the whole pallet rack under the blue tarp, and most of what's in front of it), and doing a major project on my wife's Jeep (behind me from that perspective), so the barn is a bit of a Chernobyl situation. All the same, the air system is all in there, set up, and functional. Took a while longer than expected because I managed to find an old stock double-arm Tekton hose reel (same as the current Milton option, but different color), but the first one I received was badly damaged, and it took a while to get it sorted.


Huge thanks to @GeoBruin for your help deciding on AND finding the best deal on the compressor, as well as providing data enabling me to make an informed decision re: couplers. Huge education!

 

[GeoBruin]

Not the most photogenic setup, but it's functional! I'm in the middle of unloading a bunch of stuff (the whole pallet rack under the blue tarp, and most of what's in front of it), and doing a major project on my wife's Jeep (behind me from that perspective), so the barn is a bit of a Chernobyl situation. All the same, the air system is all in there, set up, and functional. Took a while longer than expected because I managed to find an old stock double-arm Tekton hose reel (same as the current Milton option, but different color), but the first one I received was badly damaged, and it took a while to get it sorted.


Huge thanks to @GeoBruin for your help deciding on AND finding the best deal on the compressor, as well as providing data enabling me to make an informed decision re: couplers. Huge education!

Looking good!

Is that a welding helmet I see? Good little weekend project: make a threaded pipe adapter to allow your compressor to accept a Solberg filter/silencer.

 

[spectre6000]

Why, yes! It is! I had actually already started looking into some means of quieting it down and making filters easier to deal with. Leave it to you to drop in with the exact solution I need!

 

[Citation]

I've had very good luck reducing noise by using a filter housing like this one (not this exact one)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008JVM0F0/?tag=atomicindus08-20
plus about 2' of rubber hose slipped over the intake. The rubber hose was an idea I got from my California Air Tools compressor. It's something they do and it does make a difference.

 

[Madjik Man]

I don’t know if it’s proper etiquette to parlay off this thread or to create a new one but I’m looking for home garage recommendations for a home garage compressor that will be solely used to fill tires. I don’t run air tools of any sort.

It can be a tankless plug in (120V) style.

Largest tire is a 265/75 r16.

Would be primarily used to top off to proper inflation specs for autos and fill bike tires.

I have a Super Flow MV-50 that I bring on the trail but I’m looking for something a bit larger with more oomph for the garage.

 

[GeoBruin]

I don’t know if it’s proper etiquette to parlay off this thread or to create a new one but I’m looking for home garage recommendations for a home garage compressor that will be solely used to fill tires. I don’t run air tools of any sort.

It can be a tankless plug in (120V) style.

Largest tire is a 265/75 r16.

Would be primarily used to top off to proper inflation specs for autos and fill bike tires.

I have a Super Flow MV-50 that I bring on the trail but I’m looking for something a bit larger with more oomph for the garage.

Can you clarify when you say tankless? You mean actually tankless, or just portable with a small tank?

 

[Madjik Man]

Can you clarify when you say tankless? You mean actually tankless, or just portable with a small tank?

I have a Porter Cable pancake compressor that would do the job. But I don’t feel like waiting to fill the tank just to top off four tires. Then empty the tank/moisture and put it away.

So I was thinking about one of those small (I guess that makes it portable) plug in units that are strong enough to fill tires.

Similar to this: https://slime.com/collections/120v-garage-tire-inflators

(Full disclosure I’m not sure if that has a small internal tank or not)

 

[GeoBruin]

Oh you're looking for an "inflator". It technically is a compressor, but is really designed tpecifically to inflate tires etc.

I would do a search on the forums here specifically for "inflator".

 

[Madjik Man]

Oh you're looking for an "inflator". It technically is a compressor, but is really designed tpecifically to inflate tires etc.

I would do a search on the forums here specifically for "inflator".

Thank you. Did some searches here. Seems like everyone likes the cordless version on which ever platform they currently have batteries for.

I looked at the Dewalt 20v one. Seems to have good reviews. I like the three power sources (20V max, 12V DC and 110V AC) although you apparently have to buy the AC power adapter separately ($50).

Might give this one a shot since I could also make it my trail unit - though no complaints about the little Super Flow MV-50.

 

[Citation]

Do you really need to empty your compressor? I don't empty mine. I do let the moisture out but then I close the valve and the pressure stays in the tank for weeks.

I'm not really a fan of any 120V inflators. I would just get a small compressor (say 1 gallon) as they will fill fast while still having decent flow for automotive tires. A 1 gallon, 135 psi tank should fill up a bike tire or two.

 

[Madjik Man]

Do you really need to empty your compressor? I don't empty mine. I do let the moisture out but then I close the valve and the pressure stays in the tank for weeks.

I'm not really a fan of any 120V inflators. I would just get a small compressor (say 1 gallon) as they will fill fast while still having decent flow for automotive tires. A 1 gallon, 135 psi tank should fill up a bike tire or two.

For me it’s more of an issue of space. I need to get the compressor out of the way and stored away.

And I may not use it for a very long time thereafter so I always empty it.