Greetings all: figured I’d look for some opinions. I recently bought a badly seized Wilton C2 swivel. I got the handle out, and I’ve had it soaking in evaporust and currently it’s submerged in CLR. So far, the dynamic jaw still won’t budge nor will the swivel locks. I am curious as to my next step. Personally I think heat will be less harmful to the casting than pressing a badly frozen vice. (Saw the videos of a guy with a frozen 8” Wilton who fabricated a press using an I-beam). I just think that kind of pressure is more dangerous for the vice than some heat. Thoughts?
Seized Wilton
- Thread starter N8thegr8
- Start date
Was thinking about that but after reading, the general consensus I got was electrolysis won’t get in deep enough to help much. I’ve used CLR on anvils with very good results. Appreciate the reply!
Approx 3 days
gleman
Well-known member
Did you try PB Blaster or some other penetrant on it? I'd give it a good soaking before breaking out the fire wrench.
I did that for several days.
Roberts210
Well-known member
OK, I speak from some experience breaking open these Wiltons as I've popped a few badly rusted specimens open. ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS BREAK THE RUST BOND. Once the rust bond is broken you'll be able to use the handle to get it open. It looks to me like you have a little bit of space between the jaw inserts. You don't need much movement to pop the rust bond. Bolt the vise down, then use the handle to CLOSE the vise and pop the rust bond. The amount of clearance between the cylindrical part of the dynamic jaw that slides into the cylindrical part of the static jaw is miniscule, and you'll probably never get penetrant or clr or anything to penetrate that. I've also used various pieces of angle iron and bolts between the jaw towers to push the jaws apart and break the rust bond, but if you have any clearance between the jaw inserts, closing the vise is the best way to pop the bond.
UPDATE: I got the rear cone off and took the nut out. Both were nasty but not horrible. A 46mm proto 1” drive impact socket and a wright sledge hammer with just a little persuasion were enough to get it to move. Jaw is out. No heat, no pressing and I didn’t have to wail on it.
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Packard V8
Well-known member
Congrats on finding the easy, right way to do it.
FWIW, cast iron is very tolerant of heat, but not at all liking to be wailed on. If one has access to an old oven, a heat soak at 500 degrees will usually help break the rust bond. HOWEVER !! go to the heat BEFORE soaking in any solution. If it has been soaked, the fumes are from noxious to fatal.
jack vines
FWIW, cast iron is very tolerant of heat, but not at all liking to be wailed on. If one has access to an old oven, a heat soak at 500 degrees will usually help break the rust bond. HOWEVER !! go to the heat BEFORE soaking in any solution. If it has been soaked, the fumes are from noxious to fatal.
jack vines