manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Wait? They said it is mold resistant ? Rlitman said that with lightweight / premixed mud that's not possible. 
Selecting a drywall mud
- Thread starter matt_i
- Start date
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
you just can't use pre-mix with fiber tape. have to use hot mud
kazlx
Well-known member
Not much to add, but had a remodel on a bathroom to do. Had a bunch of holes from grab handles we removed, along with a wall heater and moving a light fixture. I was all set to do it myself, but ended up using a dude that's a sub from my wife's company. He was done in two hours, it looks awesome and was $150 with an extra tip....
I've done fresh drywall plenty of times before, and it's not super difficult, but definitely nowhere near as quick or good as guys that do it every day. He most definitely made the patches and re-done the texture way better than I probably would have without taking all day to do it.
I've done fresh drywall plenty of times before, and it's not super difficult, but definitely nowhere near as quick or good as guys that do it every day. He most definitely made the patches and re-done the texture way better than I probably would have without taking all day to do it.
rlitman
Well-known member
Wait? They said it is mold resistant ? Rlitman said that with lightweight / premixed mud that's not possible.
The premixed (lightweight and regular) mud I know of is not mold resistant. I've actually found mold growing on top of it in buckets that I left sitting around.
As for "possible", a little googling found me premixed joint compound that is mold resitant (probably has chemicals added), but I can't say that I've ever seen it in person or heard of the stuff before I just looked now. My guess is it's a special order (HD certainly doesn't sell it). Good luck finding it.
But you raise a good point. PAPER tape (at least, all the paper tape I'm familiar with) will support the growth of mold. So, if you're paying for mold resistant board, you should consider mold resistant tape and compound to go with it. And that fiber tape is excellent BTW! I highly recommend it over any and all other tape options.
Well, let's agree to disagree. No hard feelings.
Ugh, sprayed knockdown finish. To me, that looks almost as bad as popcorn ceilings.
Here's the thing, yes, a sprayed premixed knockdown can be done. The reason that it works is that it has almost no depth. As I said above, premix shrinks like crazy (it has to, because it simply dries by allowing the water to exit; I can get all sciency if you need a detailed explanation...). And it simply cannot be applied in a thick enough layer to give a real knockdown's three dimensional texture (it will crack as it shrinks if you go that thick). So you end up with a wall texture that replicates a troweled knockdown finish about as well as naugahyde replicates leather.
I don't think that's accurate... Care to explain or cite a reference?
James-W
Well-known member
If you get all the right stuff and you take your time, you will probably do fairly decent job. But if if you want the job done well and done quickly, hire it done.
I have done drywall before, it isn't all that difficult but there is certainly a knack to it. The people who do this type of work know just what to do, how to do it, and they don't even have to think about it, they just do it.
I have done drywall before, it isn't all that difficult but there is certainly a knack to it. The people who do this type of work know just what to do, how to do it, and they don't even have to think about it, they just do it.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Hpozzuoli
Well-known member
I swear off pre mix anything except the green colored bucket of usg mud. Typically when I am doing drywall it’s part of a larger job so I have enough to keep me busy while it dries. I also go thin enough on my coats I can usually do two coats in a day. I find the powdered stuff to be too much of an inconvenience. I blow thru enough buckets mixing thin set and grout.
acer66
Well-known member
They seem to use premixed on their site.
http://cdn.adfors.com/us/sites/defa...FIBAFUSE HOW-TO INSTRUCTIONS - Full Pages.pdf
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Interesting information from a USG White Paper:
"Skim coating with joint compound: Use any USG Sheetrock® Brand ready-mix all purpose joint compound. When properly prepared as a skim coating material, the all-purpose joint compound can be used in a skim coating operation. Do not use any USG ready-mix specialty products such as Taping, Topping, Finishing, or any powder joint compound (drying and setting type) as a skim coating material."
https://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/finishing-decorating-gypsum-panels-white-paper-en-J2010.pdf
"Skim coating with joint compound: Use any USG Sheetrock® Brand ready-mix all purpose joint compound. When properly prepared as a skim coating material, the all-purpose joint compound can be used in a skim coating operation. Do not use any USG ready-mix specialty products such as Taping, Topping, Finishing, or any powder joint compound (drying and setting type) as a skim coating material."
https://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/finishing-decorating-gypsum-panels-white-paper-en-J2010.pdf
Attachments
info2x
Well-known member
I like to hot mud the tape layer, but if I'm not I use the green lid (all purpose) UGS stuff for the tape layer. Blue lid (all purpose lightweight) for anything beyond that.