Self leveling concrete suggestions pls

[tarbellb]

Hey guys, looking for the mighty wisdom of the GJ.

I am putting down a layer of self leveling product @1" +/- in a room about 100sq/ft.

Can anybody recommend me a good self leveler? Home Depot has Rapid Set brand at $30/bag. Can it be found cheaper?

Thanks

 

[Trihle98]

That pour would require metal lathe to be fastened to the subfloor AFTER it has been primed , 16 bags total for a total of around 700$ . If you have the time to take up the subfloor and sister new joists in plane and add new subfloor I would think you accomplish it this way for under 300$

 

[tarbellb]

Well I didnt want to get into why I am pouring this, but I know you guys like the details and it will surely get some controversy.

Im covering old 8" asbestos tiles. Locking it in so to speak. Then doing a vapor barrier, foam pad, then OSB, then 3/4" ply tiles.

So, back to suggestions. Any brand you prefer? Anything cheaper then $30 a bag?

Trihle98- thanks, your estimation is exactly what I got too.

 

[chris5790]

I have used Sil-Pro. I'm not sure on price usually home Depot is fairly cheap. But for what your doing if you mix it like a thick creamy texture, a lot of water, you can just push it around with a long handled squeegee and it will come out nice and level. It dries extremely fast so don't b afraid to wet it up its meant to be put down like that. The stuff is honestly amazing.


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[chris5790]

Edit: I buy Sil-Pro at a contractors supply store. I mean usually home Depot is cheap for masonry products, whatever brand they carry. And I think it's probably all the same ****.

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[chris5790]

Dont mix to much at once either you will regret it!

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[Qcowboy]

I'll be the first to suggest that people don't **** in and tell me how to do my work. That said, I'm gonna do it anyway. Please think about the future homeowner who decides to remodel, and tears that floor out twenty years from now. They're gonna start breaking concrete and breathe in the dust from the asbestos you hid under the concrete veneer.

You're putting someone's life at risk, and you should rethink your plan.

Right now, it's easy and cheap to abate that concrete tile while it's easy to get to. If you insist on doing the work yourself (which is probably illegal, but so is hiding the asbestos under concrete) you can simply flood the floor with enough water to immediately seep into the cracks as you break the tiles, then try to remove the tiles in as large a piece as you can to avoid creating any dust. Then at least you're only endangering your own health, and not some unknowing victim years later.

 

[Justanoldguy]

I could see the do gooders turning this thread into a fist fight.. lol

 

[1953mercury]

Then at least you're only endangering your own health, and not some unknowing victim years later.

Seems to me encapsulation is a pretty standard method for dealing with asbestos. Mike

 

[tarbellb]

I'll be the first to suggest that people don't **** in and tell me how to do my work. That said, I'm gonna do it anyway. Please think about the future homeowner who decides to remodel, and tears that floor out twenty years from now. They're gonna start breaking concrete and breathe in the dust from the asbestos you hid under the concrete veneer.

You're putting someone's life at risk, and you should rethink your plan.

Right now, it's easy and cheap to abate that concrete tile while it's easy to get to. If you insist on doing the work yourself (which is probably illegal, but so is hiding the asbestos under concrete) you can simply flood the floor with enough water to immediately seep into the cracks as you break the tiles, then try to remove the tiles in as large a piece as you can to avoid creating any dust. Then at least you're only endangering your own health, and not some unknowing victim years later.

I totally get your viewpoint on this, and yes I agree it is likely a bit easier to remove the asbestos now rather then later.

BUT, it is not easy or cheap. If done through a certified abatement company its likely in the $10k + range for my entire basement (this is the last room to be done).

If I try to do it myself its illegal, and yes even more dangerous to me. So no, I wont be doing this myself.

Now if I was really trying to be cheap I wouldnt put anything down and just lay my floor over that. And anybody ripping up the floor of a 120yr old home knows there is likely asbestos and to proceed as such.

It is a 120+ yr old house. And with all the (at or above code) work I have done to this house, the next owner is coming out way ahead. That and the fact that the next owner is going to be much more fiscally endowed to pull out the asbestos.

 

[tarbellb]

Seems to me encapsulation is a pretty standard method for dealing with asbestos. Mike

Thanks Mike.

Anyways, after searching around looks like $30/bag is pretty standard. So I have decided to lay down half the amount - 1/2" = 8 bags = $250. Then lay down a additional 1/2" of ply to match the other floor heights.

Thanks for all the replies guys. Time to go rip out some nasty carpet and pour some crete.

 

[mobiledynamics]

Tarbellb -

$30 is CHEAP for self leveling concrete...
There are better products out that - SL that you can go as much as 2" thick.

You need to work fast, and have at least a extra helper. 2 would be even better.
Have MULTIPLE buckets ready. Dilute water, pour bags, mix all the buckets....pour, rinse and repeat.

YOU WILL need to work fast so many hands do help when dealing with RS SL.
Don't forget proper prep-DAM up areas where you need to, etc, etc.
SL makes the concrete leveling easy.....but you need to put some time into prep before as well as ~prep~ during your pour

 

[User_Name]

Tarbellb -

$30 is CHEAP for self leveling concrete...
There are better products out that - SL that you can go as much as 2" thick.

You need to work fast, and have at least a extra helper. 2 would be even better.
Have MULTIPLE buckets ready. Dilute water, pour bags, mix all the buckets....pour, rinse and repeat.

YOU WILL need to work fast so many hands do help when dealing with RS SL.
Don't forget proper prep-DAM up areas where you need to, etc, etc.
SL makes the concrete leveling easy.....but you need to put some time into prep before as well as ~prep~ during your pour

Having done a floor about the size of OP's, I couldn't agree more.
Sage advice.

 

[mobiledynamics]

Couple more notes

MIX to the water ratio that is speced
When I said Multiple buckets, assume 5 gallon bucket x 5-7 MINIMUM to be mixed at the same time

Prep is Key so have ALL you ducks lined up.
I assume you are going to use a drill that has enough ballz to mix the mud.
Hole hawg or some equivalent of. If not, make sure you have one, cause mixing by hand at the speed you need to work at, is not even a option.

 

[tarbellb]

Thanks guys.

I went ahead and just bought from HD, for ease of returns.

$33 bag x 8 = ~$285 for a 1/2" in ~100sq/ft.

Got a bunch of buckets from my buddies restaurant, paddle for mixing, and my plug in
Hilti ready to rock.

Doing flood scrub with bristle broom then a vacuum with a standard shop vac.

Couldnt find any of those cleated shoes, guess I will be running around. Or make some?

I will post results soon.

 

[mobiledynamics]

Tarbellb. How did you weekend project come out.

SL is awesome stuff....hope the RapidSet did not get away from you and you got the results you wanted !

 

[tarbellb]

Well the pour itself went pretty smooth. Even had the lady helping me mix and pour!

Mixed it with my Milwaukee Fuel 18v and a huge paddle. One battery, got a bit hot but never shut down.

As for the results, well im a bit disappointed. I got the coverage I was hoping for, 8 bags to cover 100sq/ft @ 1/2".
But I got some pretty significant ridges and low spots. I even have a few spots where you can see lumps/clumps from me banging the excess out of the bucket and it not absorbing?

Overall it will work for my application, its getting covered in nearly 2" of materials. Not stoked about the result, likely user error?

by far the largest ridge?

and the final result for most of the floor

 

[mobiledynamics]

U laying sleepers, etc on top with plywood (when you said you're adding another 2" of height to it)

I don't see it but did you foam the entire perimeter of you pour. It's for expansion of the crete.

 

[Zeke]

I'll be the first to suggest that people don't **** in and tell me how to do my work. That said, I'm gonna do it anyway. Please think about the future homeowner who decides to remodel, and tears that floor out twenty years from now. They're gonna start breaking concrete and breathe in the dust from the asbestos you hid under the concrete veneer.

You're putting someone's life at risk, and you should rethink your plan.

Right now, it's easy and cheap to abate that concrete tile while it's easy to get to. If you insist on doing the work yourself (which is probably illegal, but so is hiding the asbestos under concrete) you can simply flood the floor with enough water to immediately seep into the cracks as you break the tiles, then try to remove the tiles in as large a piece as you can to avoid creating any dust. Then at least you're only endangering your own health, and not some unknowing victim years later.

Lots of misinformation and assumptions here. First of all, cement/asbestos tiles, or siding, wouldn't be inside the home. Anyway, asbestos floor tiles, commonly known a VAT, are only dangerous when someone tries to sand them or saw cut them. All sealed and waxed, I'd let my granddaughter play on them all day long. Who says a 'homeowner' is the one to begin this new demo?

When breaking them up, some asbestos can be freed by the simple snapping of the tiles. The danger again lies in someone sanding what is left. If the sub floor is carefully cut with water and a HEPA vac and removed in large sections, abatement is simple.

Seems to me encapsulation is a pretty standard method for dealing with asbestos. Mike

That would be correct. But if the encapsulation is disturbed, then full on abatement procedures must be followed.

 

[Justanoldguy]

It is a 120+ yr old house. And with all the (at or above code) work I have done to this house, the next owner is coming out way ahead. That and the fact that the next owner is going to be much more fiscally endowed to pull out the asbestos.

Exactly.

I would imagine that MOST older (pre '80 or so) would have some asbestos content and renovators or demo people would proceed under that assumption.
There is no obligation for the OP to remove it if he is controlling it by the method he intends.

JM2CW

 

[tarbellb]

It was tested, and both the tiles AND the mastic have asbestos. And I do agree that the real danger is when someone decides to start sanding, grinding, or even scraping up the old tile/mastic.

I broke all the loose stuff apart in big chunks after I soaked the floor.

As for what the next move is:

_ 7mm vapor barrier
then
_ foam pad
then
_ 3/4" OSB (full 4x8 sheets)
then
_3/4" 9 ply sheet @ 48"x48" tiles (think cheap Baltic Birch)
then
_ porch/garage rated paint

The house has a modern industrial feel, so the painted floor 4'x4' "tiles" look good and performs pretty well.

It will also be super easy to lay any flooring over the top of this ie hardwood, etc...

Cant really see the floor detail, but it was screwed then caulked in white.