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semi deep sockets

bayoutoolguy

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As I had stated in an earlier thread, I'll be buying from my snap on and cornwell dealers from now on. Id like to get some info on semi deep sockets. Do semi deeps, in most cases, allow you to do most of the work where you can reach with a deep? Are there instances where a semi deep is just too short? I also remember a member here saying that shallow sockets are useless and to just get semi deep. If i have to get shallow, semi deep, and deep i will, but if i can get just shallow and semi deep, so much the better.
 
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G1GRANDEUR

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it's good to have, but in most case you don't really need it.

I will post socket size comparison picture, but photobucket is down right now.
 

senor fozz

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i would recommend all three there is some circumstances were a semi deep is perfect. i think semi deep is not a good replacement for deep. Pinless impact wobble make good substitutions for semi deep for removing bolts.
 

BDT/NWMN

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You, me, and the next guy can have different yet correct answers to that question..

Depends on what the tools are being used for..

Which one is the least popular? The semideep.
 

joel63

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And then one runs across situations where shallow, semi deep, deep, and low profile don't work. I had them all.
Recently I had a 3/8 drive 14 mm shallow that was 1/8 too short to allow the ratchet to seat fully on the socket when it was on the bolt head. Obstructions were everywhere.
Solution: went to Lowes and found that their socket was 1/8" longer.
And it only cost $2.50. Somedays thing work out.
It's not a Snap-On, but in this case it will do the job perfectly.
I will classify it as a special tool. :beer:
 
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I van putski

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Sometimes you need as many options as possible to get the job done. I would buy shallow and deeps first. Then buy semi deeps when you can. Don't forget about snap ons low profile sockets too.
 

logixjock

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Sturgeon, MO
I have semi deeps in 3/8 metric, they are what I reach for first. To me, they are the standard sockets and the short/deep sockets are the specialty sockets. Picking up a rail of 3/8 inch semi deeps tomorrow.
 

kursplat

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i'd love to get a set of semi's. you can ususally get a combo of shallow / deep / extention to work, but sometimes a semi would make it easyer
 

The Ratchet Man

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I prefer semi-deep sockets because they don't try to roll off bolt heads and such as easily as deep sockets do on hard pulls. I prefer them over shallows because they leave more room to get a complete grip around the handle on hard pulls. Semi-deeps take care on about 90% of my socket needs. I rarely ever use shallows. Most of the time I just grab a ratchet wrench if I need a shallow.
 

abvw

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I have all three on 1/4" and 3/8". My observations:

- Short 3/8" is a little bit of PITA to pull off the Snap On ratchets, especially the 8-12mm range. Not so much with GearWrench's ratchets.
- Combined height, Snap On is shorter than GearWrench + ProPoint (Taiwanese sockets, pretty sure the same batch as GW) even though GW ratchets are thinner.
- Shallow and semi-deep for hand ratchets, deep for air ratchets (clearance for trigger)
- I use deep sockets for overhead fasteners, gives another inch of swing clearance, also easier to gauge if the bolt/nut is straight or not.
- Avoid using flex ratchets with deep sockets and/or extensions. Especially when you need to press down on the ratchet head.
- Shallow broach on the deep sockets can sometimes work against your favour.
 

bczygan

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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
Bringing back an old thread.

Seems a lot of pros use semi deep sockets as their go to sockets.

Us amateurs typically buy first regular and then deep, not even knowing that semi deep sockets exist.

So I have run into a situation where semi deep would have helped, and want to get a set of metrics.

Which semi deeps have the deepest broach? Looking for an economical set.

Bill
 

Hammer1963

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I rely on my mid depth as my first choice when possible. The Cornwell sets are my first choice over the Snap-on sockets. The detent hole makes for positive retention and fewer dropped sockets
 

Fedwrench

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Bringing back an old thread.

Which semi deeps have the deepest broach? Looking for an economical set.

Bill

None of the ones I've used are broached all of the way. They've broached slightly deeper than a regular shallow socket but, that's it. Are you looking for chrome or impact?
For chrome shop around, as Gearwrench has a buy the 3/8 drive semi deep metric set get the 1/4 drive set free.
I feel the best bang for the buck in 3/8 drive semi deep impact sockets is the sunex set that runs 8-19mm, plus 21 & 22mm. Now all of these sets are Taiwan made but, will serve you well.
However if you want US made, your only non truck brand choice would be SK for 3/8 drive semi deep impact sockets in 8-19mm. SK also offers chrome 1/4 inch drive in 5-15mm. They don't offer chrome 3/8 drive semi deep sockets because their regular deep sockets up to 15mm aren't that deep. Good luck in your quest,:beer:
 

BK13

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So the GWs are still Taiwan? Not China?

None of the ones I've used are broached all of the way. They've broached slightly deeper than a regular shallow socket but, that's it. Are you looking for chrome or impact?
For chrome shop around, as Gearwrench has a buy the 3/8 drive semi deep metric set get the 1/4 drive set free.
I feel the best bang for the buck in 3/8 drive semi deep impact sockets is the sunex set that runs 8-19mm, plus 21 & 22mm. Now all of these sets are Taiwan made but, will serve you well.
However if you want US made, your only non truck brand choice would be SK for 3/8 drive semi deep impact sockets in 8-19mm. SK also offers chrome 1/4 inch drive in 5-15mm. They don't offer chrome 3/8 drive semi deep sockets because their regular deep sockets up to 15mm aren't that deep. Good luck in your quest,:beer:
 
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Adam.C

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Do semi deeps, in most cases, allow you to do most of the work where you can reach with a deep? Are there instances where a semi deep is just too short? I also remember a member here saying that shallow sockets are useless and to just get semi deep. If i have to get shallow, semi deep, and deep i will, but if i can get just shallow and semi deep, so much the better.

Assuming you are working on cars, yep, I agree with you 100%. You could absolutely start with 1/4" semi deeps and see how you do. I have shallows and semi deep only in 1/4". If I find I need a deeper socket, (battery hold downs) I just use 3/8" with a stubby ratchet. I think I prefer 1/4" semis.

For 3/8", yep, you could start again with shallows and semi deeps. Heck, SK deeps are closer to Snap On semis than deeps.

One of the tricks here is that we sometimes use deeps as short extensions. There are fairly few instances in modern cars where there is a long thread protrusion that requires a deep socket. More common is needing a long socket to fit into a machined pocket, pulley, etc. Semis are good because sometimes you need more ratchet clearance than a shallow, but a deep is too long to get the screw out. You hit something. Remember that the Snap On sockets you are interested in have shallow broaches. For those instances when you need a deep socket just for ratchet clearance, a lot of times you can use a super short extension and a shallow socket.
 
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stage20

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pcola FL
my semi deeps are my go to. most of the time they do the job of a shallow and a deep, unless you have really long stud hanging out. my favorite is my 15mm semi deep. use to use a shallow and one of those small 1" extensions(looks more like an adapter) to do work, then id have to get a deep when there was a stud. its the best of both worlds.

if you can afford them, you will use them. if youre budget is tight, pass.
 

slip knot

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I recently picked up the Gearwrench sets mentioned earlier. the 1/4 and 3/8 mids ran $40ish for both. They are broached @3/4 depth.


I've got a few deeps that have been modified for certain jobs. Chop saw can make the deeps any length you need.
 

Rickster

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I like to use them. I have a Craftsman set of metric 6pt 3/8dr sockets in semi-deep - stumbled upon those at a yard sale. Still searching to expand my SAE's but I've started with the SK's deep 3/8dr 6pts up to 5/8 which pretty much ARE semi-deep.
 

scissorman

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I don't have any semi-detached sockets as I've not had a need for them, I do however have a 9/16" socket that is about 6" deep for getting to the adjusting nuts on lift chains on ariel equipment.
 

Adam.C

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In the post linked below, I compared different Snap On socket heights. I was looking for the lowest height set up and whether the low profile 3/8" drive sockets were actually lower than std 1/4" drive. They were.

But you can also see the relationship between 1/4" semi deep and 3/8" and 1/2" shallow. Ditto for 3/8" semi deep.

Regarding what I was talking about above (knuckle clearance, reaching into pockets and pulleys) there isn't much difference between shallow 1/4" drive and 3/8" sockets (at least in this size). That tells me, its good to have another depth of each.

Socket Height comparison

I didn't mention it earlier but will now: For those of us willing to spend the scratch to make saving money fixing our own cars more comfortable/enjoyable, a good impact gun is number 1. Easily in the top 10 are a wide range of socket depths, and a huge selection of extensions, including wobbles. Snap on makes 1-1/2" long extensions, which I find useful. I also have an 18" craftsman extension I still use and like.

Screwing around with different socket depths and extension lengths is probably not something pros are going to waste time doing. But for me, I'm happy to customize my ratchet to do a job without busting my knuckles (ripping my gloves is actually more common and more frustrating).
 

ClineWrench

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As a former pro in the transmission field I learned pretty quickly that a good strategy is to start with semi deep and only switch to shallow or deep when its specifically necessary. It saves a lot of Time in terms of switching sockets.

I also learned the value of a good set of extensions that cover a complete range including the 36 inch extension for bell housing bolts.

Just my two cents.
 

bonneyman

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Sometimes you need as many options as possible to get the job done. I would buy shallow and deeps first. Then buy semi deeps when you can. Don't forget about snap ons low profile sockets too.

Sadly, this is more and more common nowadays. Gone are the days when a set of shallows and a couple of the more common deeps took care of you. Now you need the whole nine yards!
I wonder if the car company's and tool makers are in league on this situation?
:dunno:

Dang I miss the old days.
 

Adam.C

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Just a reminder from a product designer: We use 3D CAD software to design products. The CAD software allows us to run simulations of tolerance stack ups and maintenance/assembly tasks, such that we are able to optimize the design to fit what we need into the smallest possible package.

The designs are done primarily to support in-house manufacturing/assembly. Maintenance is a consideration, but not always as important as many people think it should be.

When we simulate maintenance or assembly, we have 3d models of the tools our manufacturing facilities use to assemble the products. These models are 99% SNAP ON tools.

So the products are designed for specific Snap On tools (when hand built). Its possible you could fit someone else's wrench in there, but we don't check. Our models are based on the tools our shops use.

Moral of the story: The CAD software gives us the confidence to design 10lbs of stuff for a 5lb sack. Customers want stylish high performing products. We make that happen. So the need for low profile, low height "right height" or specialty tools will only increase. The days of climbing into an engine compartment to change spark plugs are over and never coming back. Ditto, being able to completely disassemble a vehicle with a handful of SAE sockets is done. All the specialty fasteners are there to facilitate the use of robotic installers, not to discourage you from working on your own car. But when it comes to design, design for maintainability is not our #1 design goal. With some products, I wonder if it makes the top 10.
P.S. I am not a car designer.
 

red73mustang

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New Jersey
I somehow ended up with a few semi deep sockets and did not even realize they were a whole other class of sockets! If I had to start over I would get semi deep and deep + shallow when it came up.
 

dgxlh

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western ma
I have all three sets for 3/8 (all snap on just for reference, not sure of any other brand) and the semi is the go to first 90% of the time it will work when it doesn't it's usually a clearance issue for me so it goes to the shallow. I honestly don't use my deep to often but when you need them you need them so you can't neglect one for the other. I'd say shallow deep then semi if I was purchasing all over again
 

wafrederick

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Come in handy for the top 4 bell housing bolts in the 1998 to 2004 Chrysler LHS,New Yorker,Concorde,300M and Dodge Intrepid when doing engine swaps in them.
 

BK13

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I've got three sets of semi-deeps, 1/4" and 3/8" metric and 3/8" SAE, all 12 point. One day I will buy two sets of SK 1/4" 6 point, and two sets of 3/8", maybe GW, maybe KoKen, maybe something else.

Whoops, just remembered my Sunex 3/8" SAE impacts. Still need to get some metric equivalent.
 

hangfirew8

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When we simulate maintenance or assembly, we have 3d models of the tools our manufacturing facilities use to assemble the products. These models are 99% SNAP ON tools.

So the products are designed for specific Snap On tools (when hand built). Its possible you could fit someone else's wrench in there, but we don't check. Our models are based on the tools our shops use.

Moral of the story: The CAD software gives us the confidence to design 10lbs of stuff for a 5lb sack.

If anyone wonders why military contract R&D costs so much, this is one reason why.

Besides using all the parametric CAD tools Adam speaks of, every design repeatedly gets run through Serviceability, R&R (Reproducibility and Repeatability), FARS and other reviews, to make sure that designs like Adam's get weeded out fast and early. Any designer who repeated making tool-brand-specific designs would find themselves quickly surfing down the slope of corrective action/reprimand/termination.

I'm speaking from the experience of many years working in defense closely with the designers of military vehicle hardware, various kinds things we like to call applique' for ground vehicles. While tight packaging is more critical in aerospace than ground vehicles, serviceability is still essential. Otherwise you have downtime and hangar queens and not in-service platforms. While our former AF and Navy crew chiefs loved to swap stories of hard to service items, the majority of maintenance items were designed to be straightforward and accessible.
 

Adam.C

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Point is- buy tools that allow you to access stuff in tight areas. Its a trend that isn't going to reverse.
 

er3456df

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Bringing back an old thread.

Seems a lot of pros use semi deep sockets as their go to sockets.

Us amateurs typically buy first regular and then deep, not even knowing that semi deep sockets exist.

So I have run into a situation where semi deep would have helped, and want to get a set of metrics.

Which semi deeps have the deepest broach? Looking for an economical set.

Bill

What I did, which may not appeal to you, is used a random ???-brand deep socket, and cut it with an angle grinder. Perfect length for the job, cost was negligible, and didn't have to drive anywhere.

Then I wrote "S10 Brake Booster" on the side of it, and it's been in my drawer, unused, ever since.
 
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