Senior needs help removing a stuck PRV valve

[oldpops]

Hello all! I have a quick question: We have a PRV valve in the front of our house that is showing signs of needing to be replaced (occasional water hammer, fluctuating water pressure). I know the problem can be further up the chain so to speak (the PEX manifold etc.) but since the PRV valve is 22 years old (never been replaced), I thought it best to start there. I should also say that my father-in-law literally lives around the corner in the same model in the same housing tract, and had identical symptoms. The PRV on his house was just as old and when they replaced it, all his symptoms went away.

Anyway, we have a WATTS Model N45B PRV valve, which I understand has been replaced by the model LFN45b (for no lead). My problem is that try as I might, I cannot get either union nut to budge. I've tried everything but heat. When I really start to 'bear-down' on the pipe wrench, the water pipe coming into the house starts to twist. I should also mention that the house has been painted a few times and the first painter painted over the PRV valve completely. Of course the subsequent painters had to paint over the old color.

Because of the paint jobs, I can't even tell if the union nuts are on the PRV, or if they are on the pipes (the one coming from the ground, or the one going into the house), so I'm not even sure which way I should be trying to turn the nuts. I try to get the union nuts to budge one way, and then the other - but nothing. It's like they are welded! I'm not a plumber, and I wish I could call one but my wife and I are seniors on a pretty fixed income so calling in help is not do-able.

Once I get the valve off I'll probably have to replace the valve, although they do sell a rebuild kit. The problem with the rebuild kit is that they don't come with a replacement spring, and WATTS won't tell me where to get one. (anyone know where to get one?). in any event, if there are some knowledgeable people here who have faced this problem and/or folks here who could offer advice, suggestions, or other help, I certainly would appreciate it! Thanks in advance!!!

 

[rlitman]

The NB45 is a series of valves. Which one yours is exactly depends on the size, but you can see how they're configured here:

N45B - Watts

Water Pressure Reducing Valves

www.watts.com

In most of those options, the union nut screws directly onto the valve body.

 

[mike93lx]

I'd cut it out and solder in new fittings

 

[CraigStu]

Liquid paint remover and a wire brush at least in the joint areas so you know how the fittings are attached might help. BTW, I would not even be thinking of a rebuild on a 22 yr old valve.

 

[Wrench97]

Is the valve yours or the local water company?
Mine is on the water company side of the meter and they handle problems with them.

 

[The Cobbler]

the water pipe coming into the house starts to twist.

you should double wrench so the pipe doesn't have any force on it . ) one wrench on the nut, another wrench on the valve)

 

[Git]

I would go the rebuild kit route - that is what I did with mine when I noticed the pressure would creep up after shutting a valve off. If you feel you need a new spring, you could probably source one from McMaster Carr

 

[welder4956]

I'm with Cobbler on this. You will need two pipe wrenches, one wrench on the valve body to keep it from twisting and a second one on the union nut. Also, make sure you have the new PRV in hand before taking out the old one so you can see how the union nuts threads on and off and to make sure it matches the old one. If the new one is different, you may need to change the pipe connections to match.

 

[tinmanwpk]

Can you look at your Dad's old house system?

 

[oldpops]

Thanks everyone! I believe our PRV is a 1 inch diameter nd the valve is on our side of the water meter (just in front of our house (the pipe coming up from the ground that goes into out house/wall). I was afraid to use paint remover because it is the pipe that brings the water (drinking water) into the house, and I was afraid some would seep in and contaminate the water. But I have to do something because I've got to get it off. But until I se where the union nuts are attached to (the pipes or the PTV) I really can't get a replacement.

 

[manwithtools]

Use the paint remover as necessary. You can just run lots of water through the system after the fact to flush the lines. Open every faucet in the house and run the water for five to ten minutes would be more than enough to eliminate any concern.

 

[Wrench97]

Use the paint remover and rinse it off well before you break the nuts loose.

 

[welder4956]

Thanks everyone! I believe our PRV is a 1 inch diameter nd the valve is on our side of the water meter (just in front of our house (the pipe coming up from the ground that goes into out house/wall). I was afraid to use paint remover because it is the pipe that brings the water (drinking water) into the house, and I was afraid some would seep in and contaminate the water. But I have to do something because I've got to get it off. But until I se where the union nuts are attached to (the pipes or the PTV) I really can't get a replacement.

A wire wheel on a drill works fine for removing paint. I expect the male threads will be on the valve body and the female union nut threads onto the valve.

 

[nadogail]

When I get into a situation that is beyond my capability I grit my teeth and call in a professional.
Sometimes I have to swallow my pride and admit that I am no longer the man I was a few years ago.

 

[housewolf]

you should double wrench so the pipe doesn't have any force on it . ) one wrench on the nut, another wrench on the valve)

This, hold the back up on the valve. You want the valve to stay put and the half union to break loose from the valve. The paint makes it a little tricky because the painted nut will transfer some torque to the pipe until the paint breaks. The amount of torque required to break the paint shouldn’t be enough to damage a “healthy pipe/fitting”. The other (threaded) end is a different story. Get a very solid backup on that valve.


Any paint you can dig out of (maybe with a pick) where the union should spin on the pipe and the side that’s threaded will help your cause.

 

[tarmy]

When mine failed…I bought a new one just like the old one and swapped the guts out. 10 minute job.

OP, look at yours and see what make/model and locate one locally or order one identical to it. That main body nut can be removed and you should be able to put the new guts in and be done.

 

[carlaisle]

Even in California, I am certain it is not reverse threaded. Two pipe wrenches like Cobbler said - open end up on the left one, open end down one on the right. Apply force until it complies. If compliance is lacking, increase lever length until success is achieved. Watch the lines on either side to make sure you don't turn them into pretzels or you'll end up with a serious case of self-loathing. I would have the replacement part in hand before attempting disassembly. Seems like a duplicate of your father in law's new one would be a pretty safe bet.

 

[Snip's]

Whole new can of worms if you twist the copper water line causing a leak, just to replace the entire valve. If the valve body isn't damaged / corroded inside, just replace the guts (as tarmy suggested)... The bill could get much more expensive if a plumber is need to rectify any avoidable damage you might cause... The paint and any calcification on the threads could prevent the nuts from ever coming off...

 

[oldpops]

LOL! - I loved the line "Even in California I am certain it's not reverse threaded!" I just about ruined my keyboard (spitting out my coffee when I laughed). This place is weird! Anyway, thanks. I've got another pipe wrench now (that is big enough). The only problem now is that the water pipe sits pretty close to the house, so it's difficult to get a pipe wrench on the pipe/valve from behind.

I know I could call a plumber (after selling a kidney on eBay to get the money first), but aside from being on a fixed income - and I don't know if folks here can understand this: I am disabled (I have a balance problem and tend to fall a lot). Anyway, I really can't do much but I still try to do all I can to 'carry my weight' around here. I don't like the idea of 'being taken care-of" I want to do my share.

Maybe it's the way I was raised, Back then a handshake and a promise was all someone needed (had no need for lawyers), and if ever a person had a problem they were having trouble with, somehow the word got around to the neighbors (I Know my mom would invite over for coffee whatever neighbors husband or son knew how to fix whatever had stumped us) The guys would get to talking - next thing you knew they were fixing the problem. The fix usually always involved a lot of beer somehow...

One time I remember my brother had an old Chevy that needed a transmission swap out. My dad didn't know anything about that level of auto repair (he was a self-taught finish carpenter and an electrical engineer), but my friend's dad was a very good shade tree mechanic and a machinist (funny how back then every guy knew at least 2 trades).

When my friend's dad heard we were having trouble, he came over with a bunch of tools (some of his son's helped carry them over). Within a couple hours the job was done. Then out came the beer and my dad, my friend's dad, and about 6 or 7 other dads and sons (most old enough to drink) who showed up, would start the story's. A lot of times they would talk about their part in WWll. We learned a lot about REAL history from them talking then we ever did from the history books at school.

Anyway, I guess in a way, you folks here are my "neighborhood" - like where and when I grew up. So thanks for listening and helping! **Oh by the way, when the neighborhood found out my dad was an electrical engineer, he was swamped! All the homes in our neighborhood were built before 1920 and the electrical problems they had were immense, especially if someone wanted to upgrade their electrical panel. On Saturday's, and during the week for emergencies, it was my turn to carry some of the tools. And when my dad wasn't fixing a neighbor's electrical issues, he was repairing their TV's (I remember riding my bike to Thrifty's to plug in the tubes into the tube tester). My dad told my mom that he would start charging for the TV repairs, but he never did. Different times I guess.