Separation wall

[ShortyMadlock]

I own a 40'wx60'Lx14'h Morton Building, the doors are sliding doors (barn style) with two that meet in the center of one wall (east wall) making them 24'wx14'h and the barn door on the north is 12'wx14'h. 24' of the north end of the building has a concrete pad and the southern 2/3 (approx.) is gravel.

I want to build a wall that seperates the two areas. The roof trusses are sizzor and on about
12' centers 14' high on the outside walls and about 16' in the center.

I have limited manpower (myself and the wife).

I do not want a dropped ceiling or additional storage (ie. a second floor in the workshop), I want the full 24'x40' shop area to be open and have full use of the vehicle door 12'w x14'h that accesses that area. I want a double door in the partition wall on one end of the wall and a single door on the other end.

I'm thinking of building/hanging the wall in the air and using balloon contruction, I believe it's called a rake wall to achieve the stiffness from the roof line to the floor plate, put king studs/double studs about every 10'. I am thinking of using 2" x 6" for the wall with a pressure treated bottom plate and double the top plate.

Anyone have opinions about what I want to do and if it sounds like I am on the right track.

 

[hawkeye2]

This isn't a load bearing wall No need for king studs except at the door, and you really only need them there to have someting to attach the door trim to. I'd use a doubled cap board with stagered joints pressure traeted on the floor. Anchor to the floor with power hammer and construction adhesive, and nailed to the rafters. Add som cros blocking between 16" on center studs. Only reason to use 2X6's is if you need it for insulation for heat or noise.

 

[kbs2244]

It sounds like you are on the right path.
I don't know if you need to double the top plate. They do that for streanth to hold up the roof and you already have that taken care of.
Do use the sheet metal brackets they sell to attach the studs to the truss. They are a lot easier and more accurate than toe nailing.
If you rent a double high section of scaffolding with casters and a air powered nailing gun, you should have the framing done in a week end. The scaffolding makes for a safe and easy to work from platform. It is a no contest compared to climbing up and down a ladder.
If you panel the wall with at least 3/8 plywood it will stiffen up real well.
When you panel it be sure to stagger your end joints. You want it to look like it was a big brick wall. No "four corner" joints.
If you paint the panels white the night before you nail them up you will have a bright room and save yourself from the need to paint off a ladder. Put a thick coat of cheap white semi gloss on them and aim a fan at them over night.

 

[Franz©]

Steel studs and adhesive will acomplish the wall very easily. They are also a hell of a lot eaiser to work with.

 

[ShortyMadlock]

This isn't a load bearing wall No need for king studs except at the door, and you really only need them there to have someting to attach the door trim to. I'd use a doubled cap board with stagered joints pressure traeted on the floor. Anchor to the floor with power hammer and construction adhesive, and nailed to the rafters. Add som cros blocking between 16" on center studs. Only reason to use 2X6's is if you need it for insulation for heat or noise.

I'm probably not using the right term "king stud" but my thought process was I don't want this thing bowing in the wind that will come through when I've got barn doors open, they might not with 2x6's but if I used 2x4's I think it would be a must. Ya-eventually the shop end will be insulated for heat. Thanks hawkeye2

kbs2244 Re: Separation wall

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It sounds like you are on the right path.
I don't know if you need to double the top plate. They do that for streanth to hold up the roof and you already have that taken care of.
Do use the sheet metal brackets they sell to attach the studs to the truss. They are a lot easier and more accurate than toe nailing.
If you rent a double high section of scaffolding with casters and a air powered nailing gun, you should have the framing done in a week end. The scaffolding makes for a safe and easy to work from platform. It is a no contest compared to climbing up and down a ladder.
If you panel the wall with at least 3/8 plywood it will stiffen up real well.
When you panel it be sure to stagger your end joints. You want it to look like it was a big brick wall. No "four corner" joints.
If you paint the panels white the night before you nail them up you will have a bright room and save yourself from the need to paint off a ladder. Put a thick coat of cheap white semi gloss on them and aim a fan at them over night.

My thoughts on doubling the top plate was to strengthen the **** joints on the top sill, good thought on the sheet metal brackets. The scaffolding will be a must, I have a bum foot from a long ago injury and ladders aren't something I can be on for more than a little while. As far as for finish, I'm considering OSB and then overlay the bottom 8' with corrigated metal on both sides as I wash
vehilces inside (their black) and there are no shade trees.

Thanks kbs2244

Franz© Re: Separation wall

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Steel studs and adhesive will acomplish the wall very easily. They are also a hell of a lot eaiser to work with.

I've thought about the metal studs but I'm pretty isolated here and the local lumber yards don't have any, don't know if Lowe's have them - their closest store is 60 miles. But there is no doubt they would be faster and one heck of alot straighter!

Thanks!

 

[Steve in Mi]

Lets see, 2"X6"X16' steel studs - I'm curious, do they exist?

Great looking building! Is this separation wall going to be directly under an existing truss?

 

[ShortyMadlock]

Steve in Mi

Lets see, 2"X6"X16' steel studs - I'm curious, do they exist?

Great looking building! Is this separation wall going to be directly under an existing truss?

I think you have to sister/overlap the steel studs, not sure about that either. As I recall you have to overlap them.

Yep, as it works out the wall falls just in front of the truss or below it depending on how I wanted to attach it/ornot. It wouldn't be a bearing wall so I think I could actually float it with metal strapping next to the truss so the truss could do it's work. Beyond my knowledge which would be the preferrable but seems to me the latter would be the more logical way.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I would put a man door in the wall and a roll up door, at least 10x10, so you can move things between the two areas. Never know what might come up.

Charles

 

[ShortyMadlock]

I would put a man door in the wall and a roll up door, at least 10x10, so you can move things between the two areas. Never know what might come up.

Charles

Guess I didn't mention that but yes I want a man door on the far west end of the wall and I am thinking a double door on the east end of the wall. The double door would be large enough for me to get my garden tractor/golf cart/lawnmower through and would give me two man doors and not have to worry about having stuff hanging from the trusses.

Keep the suggestions coming!

 

[boiler7904]

Straight wood studs that long will be nearly impossible. Any kind of joint in the middle of the wall creates a hinge that will move the first time the sliding doors are open and a breeze blows.

Steel studs are usually stocked in 10' lengths. You can usually special order them at 18 or 20' with no problems if you've got a decent drywall or contractor supply house nearby. On commercial jobs, I see them go longer all the time but the studs are 6"

I'd go for 3 5/8" metal studs with the top track screwed into the bottom of the bottom chord of the truss or bracketed to it with metal clip angles. I'd also get 2" metal strapping to use as x bracing on both sides of the wall.

As far as the door between the spaces goes, you could build a custom sized hinged pair of doors out of framing lumber and plywood in a few hours to what ever size you need. I'd definitely reconsider the 6' door idea and think about going with 9 or 10 feet wide x 8 feet tall. It's a good idea not to transfer the weight of an overhead door to the trusses without them being designed for it even though Morton probably oversized the members a little because they know that farmers being farmers (not that you're a farmer) hang all kinds of crazy stuff (like tractor tires, fertilizer tanks, grain wagon boxes, etc.) from the trusses.

 

[ShortyMadlock]

Tks boiler7904 - I haven't found any place nearby that deals in the metal studs yet without "special ordering" them and I would just guess that would drive the cost out of the picture. I understand about finding the true straight lumber, I've even considered using manufactured product like they use in deck construction. I've weighed the overhead door idea and keep arriving at the conclusion that a double wide entry door would serve the same purpose. If anyone can find an online metal stud supplier I'd entertain the idea again but I've not had any luck.

 

[Kevin54]

I would build a standard wall up to the square, add a double plate, then build what is essentially a gable truss on up to the rafter. But seeing that you will be having a door or two in there, I would go on either side of the large door and build a closet on each side of one side of the wall, or at least come out a couple of feet with a wall that is 90 degrees to the main wall for stability. If not, like stated before, this are of opening would be a pivot point structurally. Make it kind of like _____ ______
I I

Kevin

Well that didn't come out right. The two little lines are supposed to be under the space. Oh well.

 

[kbs2244]

16 foot 2x4's are hard to find but 16 foot 2x6's should be available.
I don't care for OSB, but a lot of people use it. IMO it is **** ugly, but if you cover it with sheet metal, that will work.
If you panel one side only, waiting for insulation later, you will need some kind of horizonal, across the studs, bracing on the back side that will be in tension when the wind blows. Just some 1x4's will work. Maybe space them at 4 foot intervals so you can slide the insulation behind them and then fill in the spaces with 4x8 panels later.
If you custom make your own big door I would think of a sliding door.
You know that they don't take much room.