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Septic tank pumping interval?

Alinnh

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Dec 30, 2012
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66
Location
New Hampshire
Mine gets done once a year. This year price was $300.00 for 1000 gal. I want to stay on top of this because all the houses on our road were built at the same time in 1987 or so. many of the neighbors have had to replace their septic tanks and leach fields in the past few years. I tried going a few years a while ago and had a back up and septic company said my system just needed to be pumped yearly.
 
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mm08822

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Jan 13, 2012
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NJ
My Health Dept recommends 3 yr intervals. Obviously, # of occupants vs. system design size (# bedrooms) has a big impact. All info I have ever seen states DO NOT CONNECT A GARBAGE DISPOSAL. Also agree with the previous posters about scraping foodstuffs into garbage and using liquid only detergents. Otherwise you run the chance to increase the fine silt that gets into the d field.

The sign a proper d-field functioning is to see it no greener than the surrounding lawn. As a matter of fact, it should be the first area to start browning up in summer! It's not the place you want continuously wet, that's a sign of starting failure.
 

mm08822

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NJ
Mine gets done once a year. This year price was $300.00 for 1000 gal. I want to stay on top of this because all the houses on our road were built at the same time in 1987 or so. many of the neighbors have had to replace their septic tanks and leach fields in the past few years. I tried going a few years a while ago and had a back up and septic company said my system just needed to be pumped yearly.
I do mine every 3yrs, but it is cheap insurance vs. risking a $50,000 hole that gets dug and then covered up. Several people in my neighborhood got banged like this at the time of sale. Usually not the time for comparative/competitive shopping.
 

Hubmonkey

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Nov 19, 2017
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Location
OK
Mine gets done once a year. This year price was $300.00 for 1000 gal. I want to stay on top of this because all the houses on our road were built at the same time in 1987 or so. many of the neighbors have had to replace their septic tanks and leach fields in the past few years. I tried going a few years a while ago and had a back up and septic company said my system just needed to be pumped yearly.
Wish mine was that cheap.. around here its $730 for a 1000gal Aerobic. They "Inspect" the whole system and not just pump it out and leave... Even though if they find an issue they charge you to fix it.
Our first was at 3.5 years and second about the same. Should be more now that kid is moving out.. 1/3 less traffic, so to speak.

Hub
 

Alinnh

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Dec 30, 2012
Messages
66
Location
New Hampshire
Wish mine was that cheap.. around here its $730 for a 1000gal Aerobic. They "Inspect" the whole system and not just pump it out and leave... Even though if they find an issue they charge you to fix it.
Our first was at 3.5 years and second about the same. Should be more now that kid is moving out.. 1/3 less traffic, so to speak.

Hub
it was $250.00 last year but they said their dump fee went up. They do inspect and make sure it's working properly. mine is a basic system cement tank and leech field no filters or anything else. I have been using the same company a small family owned company since I bought this house in 2007.
 

yellowbox

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Dec 9, 2008
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I guess I lucked out, based on sheer ignorance on this topic. :unsure:

Back in 1962, my wife's family moved into a new house in the country. Being in the country, it had a septic tank. No idea of size or configuration, but there were 2 adults and 4 kids of varying ages over the years. We (2 adults) moved into the house in 1982. Moved out in 1994 with 2 adults and 2 kids. We knew where the tank was, but never saw it or had anything done to it while we were there. Never had any problems, either, so we must have been doing something right. :dunno:

.
The older ones seldom had issues
I've heard of 25 to 40 year old systems that have never been touched
 

reader2580

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Dec 31, 2014
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14,514
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Nearly every 25 to 40 year old septic in my neighborhood has been replaced. The development was built in the late 1970s for the most parts. Everyone has mound systems now, and they all had traditional type septic systems when the houses were built. I bought my house in 2014 and the septic system had been replaced with a mound system in 2011. It was about the only part of the house that had been taken care of. Several neighbors have had new mound systems installed in the past decade.
 

dscheidt

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Apr 26, 2017
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The older ones seldom had issues
I've heard of 25 to 40 year old systems that have never been touched
Septic systems are wildly variable, as an awful lot depends on local soill and drainage conditions. There are places where you can’t have one, because the drainage is so bad, and others that drain well, with the right soil to keep the drain field from falling.

When I was in high school, I helped the old guy down the road from us fix his fence. Part of the fence had to come down so the honey wagon could get to the tank to pump it. I suggested putting in a gate. He said it was the first time he had ever had to pump it since he had built the house, 35 years earlier. When he built the house, the advice he got was to pump when the sludge got to some depth. So he had been using a pole to measure. Every year, he dug up the lid, opened it up, and used his pole to test the depth. It hadn’t gotten to that level, but he figured if he had it pumped, he could be sure it wasn’t going to fill up in his lifetime, and could stop digging. So I put the fence back the way it was.
 

PopcornSutton

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Jun 10, 2024
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777
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Northern Tip of VA
Seems like in older days, everyone put in leach lines straight and to grade. Then it was learned there is an evaporative aspect, so now lines are put in with a grade, but follows the contour of the land to keep the lines at a constant depth below surface. I know this varies from the subject of pumping tanks, but it is part of the system.
 

zendriver

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Dec 10, 2014
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29,685
Location
Indiana
That guy told me to make sure no one flushed anything but scotts TP down there and that there is a rough edge left over where the piping is that its catching on. turns out the GF was FLUSHING the **** wipes...
A strict rule here "human waste and toilet paper only".
 

KansasArt

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Jan 29, 2020
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276
Location
Kansas
If it’s functioning properly, what is the benefit of pumping it out? It’s gonna fill back up in a couple weeks. Mine was installed in the 70’s. Been here about 25 years. Never been pumped by me. I can see the leach field when it’s dry during the summer, green grass vs dry grass.
 

zendriver

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Location
Indiana
Our septic contractor says no to yeast, Rid-Ex and what ever snake oils are out there.

Yes, it seems pretty bogus by science.
Human turds alone, contain plenty of digestive bacteria, no shortage of them which is the main process of a septic tank
Rule of 3P's - pee, poop, and paper. No antibiotic soaps, no powdered detergents, and they frown on garbage disposals.
.Same here. No food wastes of any sort. Why no "powdered detergents"? If laundry, no different than liquids.
 

Notgrownup

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May 5, 2014
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Location
Snow Hill NC
If you make sure you don’t flush those pesky flushable wipes the intervals are way longer . I also use rid-x every other month. System is 22 y old. Might be snake oil **** makes me feel good… lol
 

zendriver

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Indiana
If it’s functioning properly, what is the benefit of pumping it out? It’s gonna fill back up in a couple weeks. Mine was installed in the 70’s. Been here about 25 years. Never been pumped by me. I can see the leach field when it’s dry during the summer, green grass vs dry grass.
I've heard it depends on how dirty one gets and how many are using it.

Miniscule as it seems, laundry, bathing and general cleaning, has soil, grime, sand in it, which does not digest in a septic tank, settling on the bottom. **** like bone( through garbage disposal), other item inadvertently flushed might not break down at all.
 

CJM8515

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Mar 8, 2014
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Location
NJ
A strict rule here "human waste and toilet paper only".
yup! I had several clogs before this rule was implemented and I had no idea why it kept happening. As explained previusly, dont flush **** wipes.. Least not if your on a septic system
 

Hubmonkey

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Nov 19, 2017
Messages
733
Location
OK
A strict rule here "human waste and toilet paper only".
For our Aerobic system we were told human waste and a specific toilet paper, Angel Soft. We were advised to avoid all "quilted" toilet paper as it does not break down as well as Angel Soft. Even states it in the Clear Stream instructions that came with our septic system.

All"flushable wipes" are a major no no. There was a lawsuit somehwere about a city trying to get those companies from claiming they were spetic and sewer safe, which is a marketing lie. Even the city sewer systems have issues with those clogging up their treatment facilities.

Take a square of toilet paper it and put it in a mason jar full of water and a light shake. The quilted will stay in tact where the AS will break apart much easier. An old RV'er test.

We were also advised to not put ANY food down the drain. If I would have known that prior, we would have never had a disposal installed when we built our house. We use screens over the drains to catch the food particles and dump thos in the trash. Tip for using those is to not leave them in when you are done as it will create mold in your drains. Only thing our disposal gets is an ice treatment about every week to keep it from rusting up. Couple cup fulls of ice and some dish soap.

DEQ regs around here have become pretty strict as to what type you can use. You have to do perk tests in order to have a traditional septic and you also have to be on a 3/4 acre or larger lot to have those due to the amount of lateral lines. If you dont pass a perk test or have enough land, you have to use a aerobic or Drip septic. We have pleanty of land but did not want to mow down a bunch of trees and the soil is very hit and miss for the perk tests due to the high clay content of where I live.

Whatever system you have learn how to maintain it and how it works. Aerobic systems are pretty strainght forward but require maintenance. Cleaning the Aerator pump filter, effluent pump screen and changing the diffuser are important. knowing how the floats work and which one does what is just good knowledge incase you have one go bad and need to replace.

Hub
 
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djbmw

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Jun 20, 2013
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1,115
Location
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
The reason I estimate $1000 is that a large excavator is needed to dig up the tank for installation, as the tank top is 9 feet below the surface. I have yet to landscape the backyard since the other work last year, so it will not cause me any issues now. However, once I have the loam put down in the backyard, it will be a major hassle to do it later.
Is there one filter that is better than the others?
Just rent a mini excavator or tractor loader backhoe and do it yourself. For failing concrete tanks the backhoe/excavator bucket is used to break up the concrete. This concrete can either be left in the hole, or removed.

A new poly tank weighs less than 1,000 lbs and can easily be moved into place with the backhoe/excavator arm and a strap.

Back to the main topic - i check the sludge and effluent level every year or two with a 1x2 that ive made measuring marks on. If they get too high, or I see a dramatic increase, ill have the tank pumped. In general this is every 8 years or so.
 

PsRumors

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Jun 27, 2011
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Location
Cartersville, GA
Our home was built in 1991, had 6 occupants and a 1000 gallong tank. We never pumped it till it was time to sell in 2022, buyer requested it. Never had an issue.
 

mm08822

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NJ
Our septic contractor and local health department say that the powdered detergents often do not fully dissolve, leaving behind a hard residual crust like deposit that can cause blockages.
If those solids dont drop out in tank, then they are on there way into the voids of the field. A simple detergent change is a painless ounce of prevention. Once the voids close off, it's shovel time or you get your own slip 'n slide 🛝

BTW - a liquid detergent can contain plenty of solids too even after being heated, further diluted, circulated and discharged.
 

PCustoms

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Jul 23, 2011
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22,201
Location
VT
**** like bone( through garbage disposal), other item inadvertently flushed might not break down at all.

Not that I'd ever put one on a septic system, but who the hell runs bone through a garbage disposal?

On second thought, maybe I don't want to know
 
Last edited:

PWC Repair

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Dec 27, 2012
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3,165
Location
Arkansas
Our septic contractor and local health department say that the powdered detergents often do not fully dissolve, leaving behind a hard residual crust like deposit that can cause blockages.
I assure you this IS ABSOLUTELY true. My kitchen and laundry room are on a 'grey' line. They basically drain out into a rock filled pit in the back yard. When I start getting water sitting on the ground it's time to dig it up and replace the rock cause that crusty residue has plugged it all up. It's about a 4x4 pit 2ft deep. Takes around 10 years to plug up.
If those solids dont drop out in tank, then they are on there way into the voids of the field.
This should NOT happen. The 'sludge' drops down. the 'scum' floats. But the outlet to the field has a 'baffle'. The ones I've personally seen were nothing more than a 90 turn down about 12" long. Since the tank is ALWAYS full of liquid the floating 'scum' CAN NOT get into the outlet pipe and out into the field. Only the effluance can,.....as it should.
 

mm08822

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I assure you this IS ABSOLUTELY true. My kitchen and laundry room are on a 'grey' line. They basically drain out into a rock filled pit in the back yard. When I start getting water sitting on the ground it's time to dig it up and replace the rock cause that crusty residue has plugged it all up. It's about a 4x4 pit 2ft deep. Takes around 10 years to plug up.

This should NOT happen. The 'sludge' drops down. the 'scum' floats. But the outlet to the field has a 'baffle'. The ones I've personally seen were nothing more than a 90 turn down about 12" long. Since the tank is ALWAYS full of liquid the floating 'scum' CAN NOT get into the outlet pipe and out into the field. Only the effluance can,.....as it should.
Im talking about suspended solids in the effluent leaving the tank. Aka..the liquid component.
 

Junkman

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Dec 18, 2006
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Northeastern CT
Just rent a mini excavator or tractor loader backhoe and do it yourself. For failing concrete tanks the backhoe/excavator bucket is used to break up the concrete. This concrete can either be left in the hole, or removed.

A new poly tank weighs less than 1,000 lbs and can easily be moved into place with the backhoe/excavator arm and a strap.

Back to the main topic - i check the sludge and effluent level every year or two with a 1x2 that ive made measuring marks on. If they get too high, or I see a dramatic increase, ill have the tank pumped. In general this is every 8 years or so.
I don't need a replacement tank, just thinking that adding the filter would be advisable. I am not even certain if it can be added to a 40 year old system. That was the purpose of my asking.
 

djbmw

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Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
I don't need a replacement tank, just thinking that adding the filter would be advisable. I am not even certain if it can be added to a 40 year old system. That was the purpose of my asking.
Got it. Yes, they can be added on BUT, why would you? If the system is 40 yrs. old and working well - dont mess with it.
My tank is also 40 yrs old (concrete). I too had thoughts about adding a filter but figured there's really no need. The next 'upgrade' it will get is a replacement tank (with poly) ... but that will only happen when the tank fails.
 

dscheidt

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Im talking about suspended solids in the effluent leaving the tank. Aka..the liquid component.
Properly sized tanks have slow enough flow that most solid either floats into the scum or sinks below the the outflow height. If the tank is too small, more makes it through. The leech field is probably also undersized, too, so it’s easier to plug up. It’s a pretty common problem for houses that were built as single family, and got turned into a vacation rental with 15 people in it.
 

Recoveryman

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Aug 18, 2015
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76
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Southern indiana
I am out in the country and they have no oversight on septic systems. If I wanted to use rainwater and an outhouse it would be all good down here where I am. No drawings whatsoever... unfortunately. I have enough distance between mine and my neighbor's house that there are no concerns.
Fordguy: Being out in the country, if you can avoid running grey water (soapy water from baths, sinks, washing machine) thru your septic, you may never have to pump the tank. The bacterial action in the tank will disintergrate and nothing to pump. The only reason I had to pump ours is because someone flushed a barbie doll and stopped up the line. Ours was twenty years in use and nothing in the tank but water.
Recoveryman
 

Zevo

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Nov 4, 2017
Messages
39
I pump when the company that checks our house every 6 months says its needed. Fou us, it’s about 6 years. I don’t mess around with septic. Maintenance with open check book
 

Skooterj

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Mar 11, 2021
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747
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Indiana
Wait..There's a filter? That sounds smart. Pretty sure mine is just two tanks, gravity, a drain field and some water/poop.
I get it if there is a sprayer system for the yard.

I've heard of pump filters on pump-based septic... But I went way out of my way NOT to install something with a pump this time around.
Yes, a filter. It keeps the expensive to replace leach field clear of anything that shouldn't go there. Cheap, effective and easy to maintain. Pop lid, pull filter, hose off, replace. If you don't have one, get one.

 

scootermcrad

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Nov 26, 2011
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405
Location
Concord, NC
I'll throw my response in, because this is always a topic on my mind...

Our house was built in 1937 and still has the original BRICK septic tank for it's "conventional" type septic system. The d-box was replaced at some point with a masonry block construction box (which I don't love) and the field was updated in the 1990's with a 410-ft long field line that just wiggles through the grade of our back lawn. We bought the house in 2012 and had the tank pumped and repaired (mortar). The repairs were done while we were gone so I didn't see the tank when they dug up the lids.

We haven't pumped it since then (13-1/2 years) and we're really careful about what goes down the drain. None of the fancy additives, definitely no paper anything except toilet paper, there are 4 of us in the house (including 2 two kids!), we avoid putting anymore solids down the drain, but if food IS going down the drain, it's minimal.

All that being said... I'm replacing and moving the tank, at a minimum. It's too close to the house, I don't trust the age or construction, and it's in the way of future home renovations and I want to configure the inlet line and location to work with my future shop build, since it will have a bathroom.

Rumored quotes for my area of North Carolina are 6-10K for a conventional system installation with field. But I'm still trying to find someone that will come out an quote it. People don't want to talk about septic systems unless you already have the permit pulled, which seems completely back-assward to me. So it's been tough to get anyone out. Either way, I'll have to do this, soon. I'm nervous.
 

Zippercat

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TN
I convinced my wife that a disposal was bad for septic systems, and the septic guy agreed. One LESS thing to repair! We compost all plant matter, and meat byproducts go out in the trash.

It's interesting that so many cities, counties, and states have required pumping intervals. That's new to me.

Most entities that require pumping put the burden on the pumping companies to file a report on every pump out, providing info about tank size and any noticed defects. If your tank has a problem they’ll likely send an inspector out soon.

If you live in a crowded neighborhood or on a lake, etc. the mandatory pumping will hopefully reduce the chances that a problem with a neighbor’s septic system will impact you or your family.
 

scootermcrad

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Nov 26, 2011
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405
Location
Concord, NC
Most entities that require pumping put the burden on the pumping companies to file a report on every pump out, providing info about tank size and any noticed defects. If your tank has a problem they’ll likely send an inspector out soon.

If you live in a crowded neighborhood or on a lake, etc. the mandatory pumping will hopefully reduce the chances that a problem with a neighbor’s septic system will impact you or your family.
Yeah, it seems pretty loosey goosey around here. We're a bit out in the country and most things around us are zoned "AO", for that matter. I called the company that did the work and got the run-around. I think they changed hands shortly after we purchased the property and it has gone down hill for the company. People that signed off on the job quit and went elsewhere. I even tried to hire them to come back out and they wouldn't return my phone calls. Not the type of people I like to do business with, so I have to move on. We haven't had any issues and no calls from inspectors wanting to do a follow up, but maybe that's not something they do in our county, or maybe it was never properly recorded. Who knows, since I can't get any info.
 

ozyborn

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Apr 26, 2011
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684
Decades ago when my dad redid our septic fields. He sized them for a family of 8. Years later it was just my mother living there and she had it pumped. That was 20 years ago. The family that bought the house called out a service to check and pump the tanks. The crew was surprised they were not even 1/4 full. .
 
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