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Serpentine Belt Tool Needed??

jeepnut24

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I need to change the belts on my car. Does a belt tensioner release tool really help? Or can I acomplish the same with a breaker bar and a proper sized crows foot? Most sets look like a low profile long reach breaker bar with 3-5 crows feet ends. :headscrat
 
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psychoclaw84

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Personally, I never had a need to use a Serpentine Belt Tool to remove the belts.

Making sure that I can place some penetrating oil on the lock/retaining nut without making a mess in the fan/serpenting belt area (2004 Toyota Corolla) and using a combination wrench doubled/cheater with another combination wrench is all what was needed loosen the lock/retaining nut. A different sized wrench was used to move the tensioner to allow belt removal and installation.

Every car is different, as Spicoli said "MY DAD HAS THE ULTIMATE SET OF TOOLS", if so, you should have no problem. I you do not have any tools, it might be worthwhile to purchase the specific Serpentine Belt Tool or a set of Combination wrenches.
 
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jeepnut24

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Sorry, this is on my late model VW 1.8T. My two other vehicles didn't have a spring based tension system so Ive never needed the tool. The service manual suggests a regular open ended wrench. I would like to have the proper tool though if I can. Its pretty tight access to the front of the motor.
 
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Rocket1

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I have only needed the tool once and I really wouldn't have needed it of I had a breaker bar at the time. For all my other cars ice done just fine without the specific tool
 

t100

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I just changed the belt on my wife's 4L toyota, I have a copy of the FSM, all I needed was a SO Hi-Pro. wrench.

48848.JPG
 

justinmc

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Sorry, this is on my late model VW 1.8T. My two other vehicles didn't have a spring based tension system so Ive never needed the tool. The service manual suggests a regular open ended wrench. I would like to have the proper tool though if I can. Its pretty tight access to the front of the motor.

VW's are increasingly requiring more and more specialty tools. I'm not sure how the tensioner setup looks on that one but I'd say pop the hood and take a look.

I just changed a belt on a friends MKVIII and just used my long breaker bar (actually has a 1/2" square fitting in the tensioner). Same with my S10. Alot of newer stuff and euro trash have stuff like E-torx, etc. I'd say most stuff can be accomplished with a long breaker and the proper socket, etc. Some stuff you need something thinner to access (like a zero degree offset wrench mentioned above). The advantage to a tensioner tool is it (in theory) has all the right adapters in one kit and the longer bar/lever obviously gives you a little more torque making it a little easier to position a belt without having to slam all your weight onto a 12" long wrench to pull the tensioner out of the way. That of course is dependent on how strong the tensioner is as well.

Long story short.. look at it.. you can probably get away with a breaker and a socket or a wrench. Tensioner tools make your life easier if you do it all day every day.
 

kbs2244

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"The service manual suggests a regular open ended wrench."

Dosn't that answer the question?
 
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jeepnut24

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"The service manual suggests a regular open ended wrench."

Dosn't that answer the question?

Yes and no... I was really looking for the info on why there was a special tool for serpentine belt replacement, and its benefits over a regular open ended wrench. Sounds like mostly marketing hype.
 

Red Green

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Yes and no... I was really looking for the info on why there was a special tool for serpentine belt replacement, and its benefits over a regular open ended wrench. Sounds like mostly marketing hype.

There are certian cars that it would be helpful but I have not ran into a spot where I couldn't get by without it.
 

wantedabiggergarage

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I have found it handy on cars that have been wrecked, and now have less space (protrusions). For the price, I have picked up a cheap Craftsman, a KD, and a Gearwrench set, all for less then the regular price of the Gearwrench set.
 

Danglerb

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I was looking at the HF set yesterday, about $10, one long and one shorter 1/8" thick "bar", three crows and three sockets. The two bars might be handy to have, the rest go in the junk tool box. I didn't buy it.
 
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jeepnut24

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that kd tools/ gearwrench kit is really nice. You can use it for other things as well

Im thinking about picking up a set of crows feet and using a breaker bar. It seems like its about the same as a specific serpentine set, but I get more crows feet.
 

Moose-LandTran

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Sorry, this is on my late model VW 1.8T. My two other vehicles didn't have a spring based tension system so Ive never needed the tool. The service manual suggests a regular open ended wrench. I would like to have the proper tool though if I can. Its pretty tight access to the front of the motor.

16mm open-end wrench. The service manual reccomends it becuse nothing else will do it. The proper tool is a 16mm open end.

Pull the front right wheel and the liner that comes down from the chassis rail. Release the tension and use a 3mm drill bit through the hole in the tensioner to lock it in place. Remove/replace the belt. Slacken tensioner, remove drill bit, release.

I always do the from above unless i'm replacing the timing belt.

(Former VW-Audi mechanic)
 
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jeepnut24

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16mm open-end wrench. The service manual reccomends it becuse nothing else will do it. The proper tool is a 16mm open end.

Pull the front right wheel and the liner that comes down from the chassis rail. Release the tension and use a 3mm drill bit through the hole in the tensioner to lock it in place. Remove/replace the belt. Slacken tensioner, remove drill bit, release.

I always do the from above unless i'm replacing the timing belt.

(Former VW-Audi mechanic)

Sounds good, and about like what the Bently states. Ive got to do the AC belt as well. Then in a few months Ill have to put a timing belt in it.
 

Joe H

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Long story short.. look at it.. you can probably get away with a breaker and a socket or a wrench. Tensioner tools make your life easier if you do it all day every day.

x2. The gearwrench kit is great for techs but I wouldn't bother spending the money if I didn't change serpentine belts just about every day.
 
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BeansBaxter

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It comes in handy but is not necessary for 3rd gen Mopar minivans with 3.3L/3.8L engines. On the 4th gens I have worked on, it was absolutely necessary. Far to little clearance for a 1/2" breaker to fit.
 

Old Donn

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If you've got a standard issue north/south, front engine/rear drive, you can probably get by without one. But with front wheel drive location and access issues, (my daughter's old '97 Pontiac Sunfire comes to mind), the Craftsman belt tool pays for itself the first time you use it.
 

autoace

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You can usually find a way around it, but the serp belt tool is handy. I had a KD USA one for years, and also have the GearWrench set, the GearWrench serp. belt tool is very good, best in the industry IMO................Sears has the KD one for about 29.99 and it is very decent.
 

srmofo

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I got the gear wrnech set and one of the bar sets. I never touch the old crappy one anymore.....when the tools are needed.


****however**** there is a new belt on the market called a stretch fit belt. the vehicle has no tensioner. none. basically you loop the belts around all the pulleys except for the crank pulley that the tool uses. Then the tool rolls the belt onto the pulley as you turn the engine, its kinda hard to explain. Ive only run across 1 so far and if I remember right it was a mazda??? You have to have the tool for these belts or you can damage the belt installing it.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/serpentine_belt.htm

theres a little tiny pic at the bottom

edit heres a vid
<object width="560" height="340"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Hbzb_37QUTo&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Hbzb_37QUTo&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="560" height="340"></embed></object>
 

Dust

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It comes in handy but is not necessary for 3rd gen Mopar minivans with 3.3L/3.8L engines. On the 4th gens I have worked on, it was absolutely necessary. Far to little clearance for a 1/2" breaker to fit.
Before I bought my serp belt tool, I ground down a 1/2" socket cap and used a long pattern 11/32" wrench. It worked okay, but definitely not ideal.

And yes, the new RT minivans are a bit tight.
 

jteck75

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Benton Ky.
I bought the HF belt tool,the crowsfeet that come with it are worthless,so I tossed them and use my Matco crowsfeet when I need the tool. But I agree,most of the time you can do it with a breaker bar.
 
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jeepnut24

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I believe Autozone loans them out for free in their tool loaner program.

Im always on the lookout for more tools.... :bounce:


I got it all done without any special tools. I had to pull the bumper off to have enough space to work on it... :shocking: and that was the suggested method in the service manual. Oh well, saved myself $$$ doing on my own. Enough to buy some new hex bits.
 

Moose-LandTran

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Yeah, i remembered Passats and A4s being different, with a seperate belt on the left for the AC compressor. You can do it without pulling the bumper, but need the front off the ground to get under there to do the AC belt tensioner.

I've done Audi A4s V6 belts without pulling the front. Now that is not easy.
 

Mr.Nutcase

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I got the gear wrnech set and one of the bar sets. I never touch the old crappy one anymore.....when the tools are needed.


****however**** there is a new belt on the market called a stretch fit belt. the vehicle has no tensioner. none. basically you loop the belts around all the pulleys except for the crank pulley that the tool uses. Then the tool rolls the belt onto the pulley as you turn the engine, its kinda hard to explain. Ive only run across 1 so far and if I remember right it was a mazda??? You have to have the tool for these belts or you can damage the belt installing it.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/serpentine_belt.htm

theres a little tiny pic at the bottom

edit heres a vid
<object width="560" height="340"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Hbzb_37QUTo&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Hbzb_37QUTo&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="560" height="340"></embed></object>

those belts add cost, you have to cut them to replace a part.. they add costs..
 
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jeepnut24

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Yeah, i remembered Passats and A4s being different, with a seperate belt on the left for the AC compressor. You can do it without pulling the bumper, but need the front off the ground to get under there to do the AC belt tensioner.

I've done Audi A4s V6 belts without pulling the front. Now that is not easy.

For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how to get a hex socket around the front motor support memeber..:headscrat I tried every contortion I could and couldn't get it. If it had been two bolts I could have.
 

Moose-LandTran

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For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how to get a hex socket around the front motor support memeber..:headscrat I tried every contortion I could and couldn't get it. If it had been two bolts I could have.

You mean the one that goes from the front of the block to the air induction pipe/radiator support? You need to remove the AC belt tensioner (completely) and there are two diagonal braces for the mount, you need to remove those too.

You need to drop the subframe to remove the sump on these. You can just unbolt it and let if drop down, held by the front suspension. But you need to support the engine as the engine mounts are on the subframe.
 
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jeepnut24

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You mean the one that goes from the front of the block to the air induction pipe/radiator support? You need to remove the AC belt tensioner (completely) and there are two diagonal braces for the mount, you need to remove those too.

You need to drop the subframe to remove the sump on these. You can just unbolt it and let if drop down, held by the front suspension. But you need to support the engine as the engine mounts are on the subframe.

Yeah, the front crossmember was in the way of the AC belt tensioner. Thats why I pulled the lock carrier.
 

Moose-LandTran

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I forget how off-hand, but you can pull the mount/tensioner/etc without removing the bumper.

Here's where i did a sump gasket. (sealant):

Didn't need to remove the tensioner completely, and left part of the mount hanging.

DSC00500-1.jpg
 
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jeepnut24

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That looks like it, but I didn't have that much space betwen the crossmember and the tensioner. Oh well, next time I have to put a new timing belt in, so it all has to come off.
 

lilredex

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What kind of car? I can do the belt on a 96-2000 Caravan with a 3.0 with a regular 15mm wrench.


Always had trouble getting sufficient travel with a regular wrench, on those, so made up this. Swings that tensioner pulley, waay out of the way.
 

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