To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Service Door Question

imgn tht

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
82
I'm looking into redoing my garage floor and I'm strongly considering a Racedeck type application. However I have one small hurdle I need to address and that is my service entry door.

The garage is all concrete block framing with a brick facade. The original door framing for the service entry has no threshold and sweeps directly on the garage floor with an inward swing. The rigid plastic tiles are 1/2" thick and would not allow the door to open in its current state.

I'm looking for options to address this before I dtich the idea of the flooring tiles. There is a wooden header at the top of the door on the inside, but all brick outside. I originally thought I could replace the existing header with a thinner structure to allow me to effectively raise up the door enough to utilize a threshold and gain the 1/2" I need. But not sure I can do that when considering the exterior brick.

I also thought about reconfiguring the door to allow for an outward swing, but some quick research suggested that was not recommended due to security. This is a detached garage so no entry to my home from here, but still want to protect my belongings within the garage. Might be my only option though.

Am I missing other options to consider?
 

Attachments

  • 704817407.jpg
    704817407.jpg
    341.3 KB · Views: 21
  • 20230503_074102.jpg
    20230503_074102.jpg
    774.7 KB · Views: 21
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Garcky

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 10, 2022
Messages
3,434
Location
Twin Cities Metro Area, Minnesota
A couple of possible solutions:

Simple: Leave the swing area inside the door untiled. Cost: $0.00

More difficult: Remove door and trim it. I don't know what the door is made of, so that could be more difficult than easy. Find some aluminum channel material that fits the bottom of the door and attach that. Cost: Minor.

Very difficult: Remove door. Alter top of door frame. Re-hang door. Cost: Who knows?

What I'd do: See if you can find some rubber matting that will allow the door to open if it is untiled. Install that and tile around it. Cost: Minor, really. Just the cost of the mat.
 

Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Inswing doors should not be installed w/o a threshold. Yes, it makes it more difficult to roll things in and out, but that's what the big door is for. You already have a step in the transition. So, if you go to all the trouble to raise the whole frame, you're just adding what should have been a full bound frame to begin with. You don't need all that much so I'd look into a low rise threshold and cut the door accordingly. Even if you manage to cut into a hollow space in the door, you can re-block if with the innards of the cut off. Or make new.

You don't say whether that's a wood or metal door but unless solid core, all the same. Seal the new bottom well before adding a door-shoe. All exterior in-swing doors should clear the floor enough for a matt. That was clearly an oversight.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

readhead

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2012
Messages
6,187
Location
Durango, Co.
I’ve reworded a few steel doors for metal buildings. Remove the door, remove the bottom channel, cut the door, clean up where the spot welds were and install the channel. Prime and paint and you are good to go. Some doors have wood at the bottom but it is basically the same process.

I should add that installing a threshold would also be a good idea.
 
OP
I

imgn tht

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
82
Thanks all. It's an aluminum door, but does look like maybe wood on the inside pressed between the aluminum skin. Had not thought to cut it due to the material, but I think that is possible now.
And yes adding a low rise threshold after cutting will be part of the plan to close up the gap on the exterior side of the door.
 

CraigStu

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
4,053
Location
Blacksburg, Va
When you cut it take care to use a low feed speed and maybe a finer than normal tooth blade. Especially if you use a circular saw to do it. You don't want the saw teeth to be ripping the aluminum upward away from the core. Also w/ any type saw I would want the teeth coming out of the door on the inside. this way any bent aluminum repair you end up needing to do would be on the inside and less noticeable. Since it is aluminum I'd prime w/ Rustoleum self etching primer and paint w/ whatever Rustoleum has that pretty much matches and just do the bottom section of the door so your paint edge matches the edge of the recesses for the faux raisde panels.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom