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Setting a steel post for sat dish

number9

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Aug 31, 2006
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Got a new house build and refuse to put holes in it for satellite dish and internet antenna. My plan is to use a 9’ stick of 2” square tubing I have laying around as a mounting post about 50’ out in the side yard. I think it’s either 3/16” or 1/4” wall, it’s stout.

I’ve already got a 2” LB conduit junction box on the outside wall that runs into the basement media closet. I’ll burry 2” conduit out to the post with pull strings.

I can’t decide between setting the post 3’ in the concrete or weld a bottom plate on it and use lag bolts or wedge anchors to bolt it down. Attached pics to demonstrate what I’m describing.

Looking to get opinions of how you’d do it and why, in case there’s something I’ve not thought about.
 

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Bill Bowman

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Personally, I would avoid setting the post in the ground. While your second sketch would be my choice. I would want the concrete to be quite a bit larger than the post, and of course, you have an advantage of being able to adjust for plumb at the mounting flange. Maybe even some gussets from the flange to the base plate.
 

Retroman

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Either way is perfectly acceptable. Do you have a the ability to make and weld a base plate and template? Direct bury would be cheaper and easier but the base plate with AB's would be easier if you ever needed to remove it. Getting the tubing plumb should not be a issue either way.
 

gungatim

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you may want to check with the installer first.

Both my tv satellite and my internet satellite were done by the installer. he will have the post, concrete, etc. and run the wire underground as part of the install. you do not have to do that yourself with Hughes or DirecTV. (I did have to cut his post for him as it was too long and he forgot a hacksaw, lol)
 
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number9

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The tubing is 9’ drop I have left over. I called both companies yesterday asking if they any requirements as far as diameter / height / etc. I’m guessing they won’t want to mount over a specific height (6’ maybe?), so if I direct burry, I’ll put 3’ in the ground for 6’ post height. If I use a base plate I’ll just cut it to 6’ and weld a cap and base plate on.

Broadband place said no prob. Dish couldn’t tell me anything except schedule a tech to come this morning for a pole install and then ask him my questions when he gets here (lame). He’s supposed to show between 8-9.


Yes, I have the means to make a base plate and weld it on and anything else that’s required.

I’m gonna rent a mini excavator tomorrow to dig a trench for gas line to a propane tank that will be about 40’ from the house, so I plan to dig trench for this project while I’ve got it here.
 

CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
I am not an engineer but have seen 1000s of street light poles mounted w/ your first technique so that's what I would go with. I have also noticed that rather than a stud from concrete to post flange w/ a nut on top, they do a little longer stud w/ a nut above and another nut below the plate. This way they can adjust for plumb w/ no need for shims. I think having that gap between the top of the concrete and the flange plate is also a plus from a rust standpoint.
 

GMCGarage

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Jan 31, 2017
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Got a new house build and refuse to put holes in it for satellite dish and internet antenna. My plan is to use a 9’ stick of 2” square tubing I have laying around as a mounting post about 50’ out in the side yard. I think it’s either 3/16” or 1/4” wall, it’s stout.

I’ve already got a 2” LB conduit junction box on the outside wall that runs into the basement media closet. I’ll burry 2” conduit out to the post with pull strings.

I can’t decide between setting the post 3’ in the concrete or weld a bottom plate on it and use lag bolts or wedge anchors to bolt it down. Attached pics to demonstrate what I’m describing.

Looking to get opinions of how you’d do it and why, in case there’s something I’ve not thought about.

Save time and money and go with #2. Its not going anywhere.

Done.
 

gungatim

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west mich
you should also check the diameter, TV is one size, Internet is another. if you stick the 2" in and they use a different size, you're stuck with it...
 

MoonRise

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NJ
The concrete footing/foundation HAS to go to at least your frost line depth.

In addition, the concrete has to be big enough and heavy enough for the loads on it. In this case mostly the weight of the post and the sat dish and the wind loads.

Are you in an area where seismic loads have to be considered? You don't have a location listed in your profile.

And you do have to check with your local building department to see what, if any, building code requirements that you have to comply with. There are always property line setbacks to comply with, and some locales may require a building permit. Some locales may require a more 'rigorous' permit and approval process if the post is over 6 foot high.

example found online in 0.56 seconds via a quick Google search:

https://www.codepublishing.com/CA/Poway/html/Poway17/Poway1737.html

And depending on the dish diameter, there may be other design/fabrication triggers as well.

Such as (look like it is for some bigger diameter sat dishes, but since you didn't say what size dish you are dealing with ... :D )

http://www.dhsatellite.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Base-Post-in-concrete.pdf

Here is another example site found in the search:

http://www.dbsinstall.com/diy/GroundPostInstallation2.asp

Although I personally would prefer to mount the post to a base plate that is attached to the concrete via the anchor bolts. Keeps the steel post out of the ground (less rust and corrosion that way), and you can plumb the post via the nut underneath the plate method. And you can just unbolt the post if you ever need to remove the post/dish or replace something.

More quick info about the rights to install a sat dish:

http://www.dbsinstall.com/rights/yourrights.asp

And you do have to ground both the steel mast/post and the coax as well.

http://www.dbsinstall.com/diy/Grounding-2.asp
 

3onthetree

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Nov 14, 2018
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191
Geez, is this actually a 30' diameter satellite listening for aliens? If it's a Dish or DirectTV satellite, they weigh about 25lbs. No need for overkill.

I like to supervise with installing/replacing these nearly every time a tenant switches service. They install the round ground pole, and it needs to be their size. Some are too small diameter. They also need to place it so it has a good line of site to the satellite. You can guide where you want it, but good chance you will place it where they don't like it if you do it ahead of time.
 
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tarmy

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May 28, 2014
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Nor Cal
I just went thru this same exercise with Direct TV.

One thing to consider OP...is where are the satellites that it needs to access. I am in the mountains and tree country...so they came out and gave me suitable locations for my service. Next was what can hit or disturb the dish. I needed a cover to keep pine cones, branches and snow off it. Built that first, then set round galv pole deep into ground with a conduit running underground and attached to pole up 7’.

They came out and set dish and pulled coax.

Good luck OP.
 
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number9

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So the Dish tech came this morning ready to dig a hole in hard, frost covered ground - he was happy that I only wanted to talk :badteeth:

I showed him the location and a section of the 2" square tubing I am going to use. He got on his phone and pulled up an app and pointed in the sky and showed me which direction the dish will point in. It's wide open in that direction and he said it would be no problem.

The DishTV dish is only about 18-24" diameter. I seen the galvanized post he usually uses, it's fairly thin-wall, nothing near 1/4" wall of the 2" square tube.

He told me to keep it to 6' tall max above ground. Didn't have any problem with anything we discussed. Even gave me a Dish mounting arm with bracket to keep and use for either making a bracket for the post or sourcing some square U-bolts to mount it with. I asked him about grounding the post and he said Dish no longer requires the post to be grounded, so no big deal there either. I may drive one in the ground anyways, but can't tie into the existing home ground rod, it's too far away to fool with that.

I've decided to weld caps on the ends, maybe few tabs of rebar or angle iron on the sides to help lock it in, paint it and just stick it in the concrete.

Gonna get the mini-ex in the morning and get the gas line trench dug, then start in on this. I've got a short amount of time this weekend to get things done and dodge rain on Monday.

BIG THANKS for all the input guys. Really appreciate it. I'll post up some pics if I can remember it.
 

Milton Shaw

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Feb 11, 2011
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Put a piece of rebar in the concrete and use it for a ufer ground. I would go with a plate. All the posts I have seen sitting directly into concrete are rusted where they go in and I have seen a lot that have failed and been replaced. I used a plate and anchors on mine railings I put up.
 

fattogatto

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Jan 29, 2008
Messages
167
You can put it on your roof and secure it with cinder blocks. No holes required, just run the cable down the side of the house. Direct TV makes a special setup for this. Mine is on a standard slope metal roof and is held in place simply by the weight of the blocks. Had 70 mph winds last week with no issues.
 
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number9

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Thanks for all the input guys, figured I'd update to tie this off.

I capped both ends of the 6' tube and welded a 6" long stick of 1/2" rebar on two sides, then painted it flat black.

Got the trench dug.

UCqgcgq.jpg


Dug the hole as small as I could with the mini-ex. Hole ended up being about 2' wide X 4' long X 3' deep. The bottom was square as I could get it, much closer to square as it looks in this pic.

zn6PQYZ.jpg


I put about 3" of #57 gravel in the bottom of the hole, then set the post and stabilized it with 2x4's to keep it plumb. Was in hurry to beat sunset, and forgot to take pics.

Ran the 2" conduit from the house down to the hole and then realized that if I filled the hole to the top with concrete, the sweep 90 would be encased in concrete, unless I could find some clever way to avoid it. Never know if I may want / need to pull the conduit back up / repair it / etc some day, so really didn't want it encased in concrete. I didn't have a lot of time to waste so said "screw it" and just filled the hole to the bottom of the conduit. It's about 28" deep.

kqIDosG.jpg


I didn't want moist dirt in direct contact with the steel post, so I slid a section of 3" PVC over it and filled it full of Sikka self leveling sealant. Shouldn't ever be any water in contact with the post below grade. Gave it a couple days to setup, and back filled the rest of hole with dirt to grade. Have about 3" of the PVC sleeve above grade.

XyP0QQL.jpg


I think it's going to work out real good, it's not going anywhere, that's for sure. If I find it deflects under heavy wind load with a Dish on it, I'll cut the top cap off and fill the post full of concrete.
 
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finn

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Most of the responses here are just plain crazy. Pole buried below the frost line? That’s almost five feet here. There isn’t a satellite dish post in the county buried that deep.

Direct tv carries appropriate posts on the installers truck, along with a bag of Quikrete. They will install the pole for free, and bury the cable. It’s direct bury cable, and will probably be about a foot deep.

You guys have too much time on your hands.
 

Lwel9226

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Jun 7, 2014
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So Oregon
I had a post setup for satellite dish... (Corner post on a fence with extra bracing to allow for the dish weight.... VERY stable)…. Direct TV installers would not use it, claimed it had to be installed by them.... It was not a mounting problem because I used the same size pipe as theirs was... Don't know what their problem was...

LW
 

finn

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Remember, the Direct tv installers don’t work for Direct tv. They are independent contractors, and probably have a few bucks markup on theposts in their van.
 

gungatim

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west mich
Most of the responses here are just plain crazy. Pole buried below the frost line? That’s almost five feet here. There isn’t a satellite dish post in the county buried that deep.

Direct tv carries appropriate posts on the installers truck, along with a bag of Quikrete. They will install the pole for free, and bury the cable. It’s direct bury cable, and will probably be about a foot deep.

You guys have too much time on your hands.

I said that back in post #5...I don't get going overkill doing something that you are already paying someone else to do to begin with but to each his own...:beer:
 
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