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Setting solid rivets (I don’t do it often but…)

R-mm

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Dec 24, 2013
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photo dec 30 2023, 9 11 58 am (1).jpegphoto dec 30 2023, 9 11 51 am.jpegIMG_0444.jpegI have restored a few cars a few machines a few bicycles and in all that have rarely come on the need to set solid rivets. dismantling this window regulator changed that. I only have six of these to set and figured I’d simply hammer them by hand but access and power didn’t seem to align.

i do not own an air riveting tool nor its non identical cousin, the air hammer.

curious if anyone has a recommendation for a use-rarely-but-not-garbage air tool, or a suggestion on how to get this done sans air tools.
 
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speed bump

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any reason you can't use pop rivets?

I suppose you could also build a press out of a c-clamp and some punches or fabricated ends. Probably won't work easily with stainless rivets but I'll bet an aluminum rivet would go.

Personally if you have air available I would say to get a rivet gun. You can get them cheap used from eBay or aircraft spruce and they make great air hammers as well.

Out there recommendation is contact your local EAA chapter and see if someone will rivet it for you.
 

Jswain

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I used a cheap IR edge series air hammer to do quite a few 3/16 aluminum solid rivets on my old boat with good success. I simply cut an air chisel across its shank and drilled into its end, then smoothed by hand to match the head of the rivet.

A large chunk of steel as a backer, I used a railway spike for most of them. Couple braps and bobs your uncle.


This is the one i used to do the job
 
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R-mm

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Thanks guys. The rivets are reasonable thick shank so I believe a "4x" gun would be needed. I do see some nice US made options on ebay for ~125-200 I do also have a big ole hydraulic press and had not thought of using it but I think this is likely the ticket...
 

dffay

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The pop-rivet thing.....Cherrymax rivets, Aviation grade and from Aircraft Spruce, are every bit as strong a fastener as the solid ones in that regulator. That’s a low buck alternative.
 
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ng8264723

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I have worked on fox bodies that rivet a bunch of ****. I replace them with bolts and lock washers. I know it's not original but I can take it apart and fix it.............
 

bimmer1980

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Thanks guys. The rivets are reasonable thick shank so I believe a "4x" gun would be needed. I do see some nice US made options on ebay for ~125-200 I do also have a big ole hydraulic press and had not thought of using it but I think this is likely the ticket...
The press is going to be your best bet for those.

FYI--I'm currently setting 3/32" and 1/8" aluminum rivets on an airplane project. I use a "squeezer" with rivet sets and appropriate yokes. AN470 rivets have a dome head and are set with a flat set.


Your stainless rivets are going to take more pressure than an aluminum rivet, especially at 5/32". The press will be easier to set up and have the capacity to squeeze the rivets to the appropriate height. There will be a spec on how far to squeeze them. Typically it is until the "shop end" is 1.5 times the shank diameter.

With the press set up, those are a less than five minute project (after the old ones are out and everything is lined up...)
 
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helterskelter

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press will work fine. a lot of rivets in industry get squeezed with modified presses. Buy the correct squeezer sets from Yard Store.
 

Nutria

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I see a number of older us made tools on ebay at or below $100. Any comment on things like this?

I did just pick up an old Thor rivet gun with a bunch of rivet sets, bucking bars, and rivets at an estate sale yesterday. I'll report back in a few days after a test run.
 

Nutria

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see a number of older us made tools on ebay at or below $100. Any comment on things like this?
I did just pick up an old Thor rivet gun with a bunch of rivet sets, bucking bars, and rivets at an estate sale yesterday. I'll report back in a few days after a test run.
Ok, I had a chance to check things out. The old Thor riveter works just fine. There's no number listed next to "Model" on the stamping, but the serial number starts with "4S." It'll set 1/4" rivets, so it's probably a 4X equivalent. Nothing fancy, and I don't need to build an airplane, but this old riveter seems like it's going to work out well for me. So, R-mm (OP) an older gun might be an option for you. Used is always a gamble of course.

IMG_2999.JPGIMG_3001.JPG

This one also happened to come with a bunch of other stuff: rivet sets, chisels, etc.; bucking bars; a Cleco tool and a bunch of Clecos, lots of different sized rivets, plus a box.

IMG_3002.JPGIMG_3003.JPGIMG_3004.JPGIMG_3005.JPG
 
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