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Setting the first two trusses...tips or tricks?

tinysparky

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Oct 22, 2016
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This Friday we are setting trusses for my 40*84*14 pole barn. I am renting a 34' boom forklift and a scissor lift. I already have scaffolding for both sides.


Any tips or tricks as we go to set them.... A whole bunch of friends with no "professional".

They are a double truss being set on a block and need to be bolted with 1" bolts.

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southpier

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tie a tether line to one end of the truss so your ground man can keep it from spinning.

and bring the crane operator coffee and muffins. he can make or break your day. good luck.
 

matt_i

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The truss mfg should have a sheet in the packet that deals with rigging. Some (thinking these because of the weight and length) need to be picked up in 2 places instead of just one. That could drive a "spreader bar" which could be ganged-up wood 2x material, can't tell you what dimension to pick without a handle on the length and the weight to be picked up.

It is definitely easier to have it all suspended from a single chain (ala using one fork only) so that the thing rotates easily and you can approach from any angle. I'm going to WAG this is in the 500 lb or less range, so using the heel of a single fork should be no big deal.

I would determine the distance between the two trusses and pre-cut wood spacers. I don't think these dimensions are correct but if it was a 24" center I'd cut pieces 22-1/2" long and then screw a piece on top that was ~30" long, so I could set the spacing block and then either clamp or screw it to both trusses until more could be established.

Once the first two are up, I would also clamp timbers on the diagonal, across the top chords. This gives it some more resistance to falling over by rotating. The truss book should have requirements for permanent "rollover blocking" for your application.

Also guessing you have appropriate chains, slings, I'd use 3/8" chain if you didn't already have it, Tractor Supply sells it by the foot with grab hooks.
 

firebirdparts

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On that first one nail a big stick of framing lumber (or two) straight up and nail the first one to that to hold it plumb. Then all the rest of them depend on that first one, using more temporary 2x4's across the top, where the roof would be.

After you get two or three you could consider a diagonal brace. You could consider more of them as you go. If you have any mechanical intuition you'll realize how fragile they are. If they get loose they will all fall like dominos and then break in two. Don't get hurt.
 
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MagKarl

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Are they sandwiching the posts? If so, I'd set blocks level down low, maybe 2' above ground, do all your blocking between trusses and then walk them up the posts to your marks.

My posts are on 12 foot centers, I framed the trusses/purlins 2' off the ground in 12 foot sections and then hoisted up to 16'.
 

Tejay

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Dec 29, 2014
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This^^^^
Many contractors build the entire end on the ground. Gable end sheeted with overhang installed along with first two trusses at least. If you are using plywood on the roof some can be installed to keep things square. Be sure what you are building on is flat and level.Put your building paper on also ( some do siding also) Saves many steps and is much safer.
 

Kaizen

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IMG_2801.jpg
I did mine solo and the first time so you will be fine. I put these 2xs screwed to the outer wall so it’s pretty much plumb. You won’t need external bracing from the ground to the truss as you will have your other trusses up and braced. You didn’t give your layout space around the building or door size so people can advise wether to boom from outside or in or a combination. The last few middle ones are easier from outside. Sheath and put on your ladders if using them on outside wall. Completely finish them to save ladder time later.
Make sure your walls are straight and plumb. Brace as needed. Mark a specific point on the end of all braces in relation to one wall and install all to that point. If the wall I straight the trusses will be as well don’t spin them around. It does make a difference.
Go slow and have fun.


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larry_g

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oregon
When you say 'double trusses' are they like mine with only trusses on the poles and not in between on headers?



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If like the above picture then the trusses are fit together on the ground with all the blocking and then raised up the post with a winch on each post. Where are you located?

This build style seems to be a northwest thing. You can see more in my build thread below.

lg
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scottydosnntkno

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I would imagine by double truss he means a girder truss or two ply truss, although it’s unusual to require bolts for only a 2 ply and not a 3 or 4 ply. Either way, ply them together on the ground.

Make 2x4 Ts that you fasten to the outside sheathing to hold it plumb. Make a bunch of 25-1/2” long scrap (2x4, 2x6, 2x8) lacers. That way when you raise a truss you put a couple lacers on. One end flush to the outside web of truss x and the other end flush to the opposite end web of Truss x1, gives you perfect 24oc spacing. You can make some 49.5” too, mark 25-1/2 from one end with an x and tie two trusses together.

A truss spanning 40+ feet will have a lot of deflection along the top and bottom so
Ultimately you’ll pop the lacers and push or pull them square as you set the sheathing I’d bet some of them will be ‘warped’ 10” or more along the length.

Also, do a layout on the top plate on both walls starting from one end. If your first truss or girder is set plumb, you set the rest on your layout marks, and you put the 25-1/2 lacers near the peak you should have no problems
 

6768rogues

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Long framing members attached to the wall for the truss to rest against (temporary fasteners) and long braces to stakes driven in the ground outside the building line. Brace it well because having it topple over can kill someone.
 

SDBOB1

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Apr 5, 2016
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You can never over brace something. My father always had bracing a priority,safety! Not production. I made 96 " long aluminum brackets that would keep trusses spaced properly, 16" or 24" oc. Another idea we would double check trusses when they arrived for size. Then double check our building size making sure square within, like it perfect but tolerances can add up. We would place a mark for overhang on first truss ,say 24 " in from outside edge of truss(allow for face board). Lets say you start from right to left. Place that truss fasten it. Then on far left you take a piece of wood place it 24 " out from wall,fasten it. Then nail a block of wood say 3/4 " thick to truss and 24" block stretch a string between the truss and block. Now as you set trusses you keep a small 3/4" block with you,the block should slide between string and truss you are setting. This keeps trusses straight. If you just measure each truss from wall you could be in and out depending on straightness of wall. Especially when placing fascia.Yes it's time consuming BUT you are only going to do it once. Done this a few times. Tried setting a few at a time. You need manlifts or scaffolding to fasten and unlock load line.Be careful plan your moves. Do not be in a hurry. Hope I didnt confuse you. Good luck or good planning.
 
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tinysparky

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5 hours later....pizza and rootbeer....

IMG_20180601_234439_439.jpgIMG_20180601_234439_440.jpg

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ForceFed70

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As mentioned - the truss manufacturer should provide temporary bracing instructions.

However, those instructions don't include how to brace the 1st truss or 2 by themselves. Or at least mine didn't.

Here's what I did: On the gable end I was planning to start at I found a couple of nice straight 2x4s and temporarily scabbed them onto the gable wall on edge with 1/2 of the 2x4 sticking up above the wall. This allowed me to brace that 1st truss against the portions of 2x4 sticking above the wall and keep it reasonably secure until the other trusses were added.
 
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tinysparky

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I am done with them. All is good. Thanks for everyone's input.

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