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Setting up a simple shop - thoughts on tools & LiIon drills

mark-NJ

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Here's the deal:

My wife and her 2 sisters have received ownership of the family summer cottage in Maine; it's been owned by her parents since the '60s. Adjacent to the cabin is a "Workshop" (at least that's what it's referred to as). It's a small (10' x 8') structure, but it's sealed up fairly well with a weather-tight door, roof & windows. It has a hideous little workbench with a drawer, made of firing strips & masonite; it's falling apart. The tools in the drawer are, frankly, not worth mentioning. Old, cheap, incomplete, broken, abused. There's also an old re-purposed bookshelf filled with....10% useful things and 90% ****. (coffee cans full of "saved" bent hinges, steel wool, rusty nails, etc.). The rest of the space is just crammed with "stuff", too varied & worthless to mention.

This "workshop" sufficed (for lack of a better term, I suppose) for decades for general use by my father-in-law. However, I'm the only real "tool guy" in the crowd, and I'm the only one who thinks a workshop needs to be functional and equipped with at least basic tools at the ready.

Here's the other side of the coin:

- I live in NJ and, at this time, only spend a few weeks per year at the cabin. I say "at this time" because I intend to retire to Maine in the next 3 or 4 years and will be spending a lot more time at the camp. But for now I'm ******* 2, fully-packed toolboxes whenever I go. I'm tired of that.
- Let there be no misunderstanding about who owns this camp: the mice do. You cannot keep them out, and everything in the workshop is subject to pee & poop. That's a constant, not a variable.

I have been given a green light to "do whatever needs to be done", with the knowledge that when things at the cottage break, it's likely that I'll be doing the fixing...and even the non-tool people in the family recognize that having what's needed is required. Here's what I'm thinking:

- Build a decent 3' deep x 10' long bench with 2x10s that will span along one wall. I can weld up some bracket supports so as to minimize the need for legs.
- Get a (approx) 32" high roll-around "bottom" with about 7 drawers for under the bench. It needs to be a well-sealed box to keep the mice out. Sloppy drawers with gaps need not apply.
- Go to Horrible Freight with a budget of about $150-200 (this application does not need Snap-On, Mac, etc.) and stock up on the basics: combo wrenches (imperial & metric), 6-pt socket sets (imp & metric), screw drivers, pliers, cutters, files, hammers, crescent wrenches, channel-locks, etc.
- Find a decent vise on CL; the one that's there is little more than a toy.

Am I aiming in the right direction?

Here's the other thought: Battery drills. I really need something so that I needn't bring mine from home every trip north, but I am not sure how LiIon lasts when not in constant use. I know that NiCads sitting for long dormant periods go bad, but do LiIons? I also know that LiIon doesn't work will when it's very cold out...but does the cold actually hurt the battery? I figured I'd just get a Ryobi or 2, but will they be OK with so much dormancy? Should the battery sit in the charger all that time or not? My LiIon tools at home get used constantly, so I really don't know how they last when rarely used.

This project is *NOT* a candidate for the "shop of the year" trophy, so please don't suggest things that are needlessly expensive or overly complex. And space is limited. That said, I'm open to ideas & suggestions that I may not be considering. So have at it! Am I barking up the right tree, or would you do things differently? Tools you think are a "must have"?

Thanks!
 
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mark-NJ

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Indeed they do. I've recently replaced several of mine...but they had been used hard since about 2017.

What I'm now wondering is if the lack of use accelerates their demise. They will be used far, far less than my "at home" drills; indeed they mostly won't be used at all.
 

sk farmer

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i don't know of any drawered cabinet that will be completely rodent proof. my thoughts there would be to use any of the many brands of plastic modular storage. ridgid, dewalt, milwaukee etc. even hf and walmart play in that game these days.

cordless tools? i would bring those from home or purchase a lower end set that uses the same platform as you have at home. then you could just bring a bag with several batteries for use at the cabin while having them for home use as well.

hand tools? not telling you to cheap out but hf has a set that is fairly complete with case that holds all of the parts in an organized fashion.

what do i have? we have a camper on a seasonal spot about fifty miles from my home. we are allowed to have a small shed so i have a 7x7 rubbermaid shed. i have an older cman bench with a flat wood top, 4 drawers on one side and open storage on the other. i keep one of those 200 or so pc. cman tool kits in a blow molded case, a small set of hart screwdrivers, a tool bag with a once around the shop assortment of extras that includes claw hammer, wrecking bar, pliers, etc. i also have a large plastic organizer box that got the once around the shop treatment. it has nails, screws, wire, wire nuts, **** connectors, wire ties, fuses nuts, bolts, basically any thing that i may commonly need. i also leave my dewalt 12v stuff there in a tstak box for the summer. i have 4 batteries, a drill, impact driver and 3/8 impact with a basic assortment of drills, bits and impact sockets. is it overkill? maybe, but the neighbors like it when problems arise and it is 15 miles to anywhere.
 

RPH

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Batteries don’t like cold, period. It will shorten their life. As to securing your tools from mice and other vermin think about a large knaack box. I was able to snag 5 boxes of various sizes for $1000.00. It’s easier to keep critters out. 9368AE3C-E286-4B75-999A-53182E8CA6E7.jpeg
 

ChaseDE

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The mouse thing would bother me, and you said it's pretty well sealed up so like, am I being silly in thinking you could find where they are getting in and seal it up? Traps? IDK just seems like something I would rather not "live with"

Other poster above had the idea for the cordless stuff, buy "tool only" and 1 charger for the cabin then all you need to transport is your batteries.
 

Ton ton

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Ace hardware has nice wooden handle claw hammers. They're a must have in my experience. Yes, I do have expensive framing hammers. But ACE seems to hit the sweet spot for value and performance so far.
 
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mark-NJ

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I like the idea of buying (just) a drill & charger, then bringing batteries from home. I hadn't thought of that.

Do you think that a drawer-style cabinet wouldn't keep the mice out? I've heard that a mouse can fit through a hole the size of a dime, but that's still a lot bigger than the space/gap between drawers...right? That said, the idea of a tool "set" that comes in a decent (sealed) plastic case is a great suggestion for keeping everything sealed. I wouldn't mind a couple of them, either: a dedicated socket set, dedicated wrench set, etc. Maybe I'll take a drive out to HF tonight & see what they offer. Still, I wouldn't want the cases getting peed on, either. Maybe an old filing cabinet would suffice.

Keeping the mice out: Yeah. Sure sounds like a plan, but reality is a different story. They find a way. Winters in Maine can be brutal; I guess you could say they're "highly motivated"!

We're deep in the woods (a mile up a dirt fire road), but there's a fantastic, well-stocked Ace Hardware about 6 miles away, so if I absolutely needed that "left-handed metric screw driver", I could get it. So I'm sticking to the basics for tools for this initial setup.

Thanks for the ideas...keep them coming!
 

RPH

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I like the idea of buying (just) a drill & charger, then bringing batteries from home. I hadn't thought of that.

Do you think that a drawer-style cabinet wouldn't keep the mice out? I've heard that a mouse can fit through a hole the size of a dime, but that's still a lot bigger than the space/gap between drawers...right? That said, the idea of a tool "set" that comes in a decent (sealed) plastic case is a great suggestion for keeping everything sealed. I wouldn't mind a couple of them, either: a dedicated socket set, dedicated wrench set, etc. Maybe I'll take a drive out to HF tonight & see what they offer. Still, I wouldn't want the cases getting peed on, either. Maybe an old filing cabinet would suffice.

Keeping the mice out: Yeah. Sure sounds like a plan, but reality is a different story. They find a way. Winters in Maine can be brutal; I guess you could say they're "highly motivated"!

We're deep in the woods (a mile up a dirt fire road), but there's a fantastic, well-stocked Ace Hardware about 6 miles away, so if I absolutely needed that "left-handed metric screw driver", I could get it. So I'm sticking to the basics for tools for this initial setup.

Thanks for the ideas...keep them coming!
Nope, mice find a way in. You will open a drawer and your blue paper towels will be a shredded mess in them.
As to tool sets check tecton as the have some great sets.
 

Dave455

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I think you’re on the right track, but I’d make the following observations : -

Carrying out domestic repairs can need a whole load of different tools, as there’s so much variety in the tasks. You might need screwdrivers / pliers / wrenches for appliance repair, woodworking tools for actual house repairs, electrical tools, plumbing tools, etc. It’s potentially a lot.

While you don’t need “top end” (I can totally see why mid range wrenches would be fine) be a bit careful when you know you’re only going to have one of something. I once helped a mate switch a starter motor, but we needed a hex key, and the only (mega cheap) one he had was totally inadequate.

While some cheap tools work o.k. some don’t. I have yet to find a cheap wood chisel that takes and holds any sort of edge!

One thought - instead of buying loads of cheap tools for the property, could you consider buying a set of dedicated “maintenance” tools for yourself, and just taking those.

Maybe worth looking at the setups that handymen use? They get a lot of capability out of a small tool bag as they generally need it to be portable! A few minutes thinking (bit driver instead of a dozen screwdrivers, one hammer with hard and soft faces etc) can save a lot of lugging..!

Proceed with plan A and install a bench / vice though. That will always be needed!
 
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gleman

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I like the idea of buying (just) a drill & charger, then bringing batteries from home. I hadn't thought of that.

Do you think that a drawer-style cabinet wouldn't keep the mice out? I've heard that a mouse can fit through a hole the size of a dime, but that's still a lot bigger than the space/gap between drawers...right? That said, the idea of a tool "set" that comes in a decent (sealed) plastic case is a great suggestion for keeping everything sealed. I wouldn't mind a couple of them, either: a dedicated socket set, dedicated wrench set, etc. Maybe I'll take a drive out to HF tonight & see what they offer. Still, I wouldn't want the cases getting peed on, either. Maybe an old filing cabinet would suffice.

Keeping the mice out: Yeah. Sure sounds like a plan, but reality is a different story. They find a way. Winters in Maine can be brutal; I guess you could say they're "highly motivated"!

We're deep in the woods (a mile up a dirt fire road), but there's a fantastic, well-stocked Ace Hardware about 6 miles away, so if I absolutely needed that "left-handed metric screw driver", I could get it. So I'm sticking to the basics for tools for this initial setup.

Thanks for the ideas...keep them coming!
I always see the *(tool only)* deals from hd and others. That might be the ops best bet.
 

RTM

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For the battery powered drills, get a matching flashlight, or lantern, fan, or whatever, and try to get people to leave it and the charger in the cabin when they leave. That usage should keep the battery in decent shape for when you need it.

Might carry an extra battery and charger while you figure out how well the honor system works.

Regarding mice, they will just destroy plastic cases once they get to them. Friend of mine tried a tiered strategy for rat defense. He made it easy for them to nest and forage in certain parts of the shop, so the metal tool box was less inviting all locked up. Seemed to work for the first year, then I lost touch.

(Wonder if in deep winter you could poison them, then deal with ratsicles before they thaw. I once used dry ice pellets on a rat trapped in the wall).
 

Ton ton

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There's a decent selection of rat and mouse poison available from Rural King. You could also a repeating mouse trap for the mice. There's a mouse trapping thread in free parking part of garage journal.
 
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mark-NJ

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I don't want to kill them...I have nothing against animals living free & wild. I would just prefer they not pee all over my tools...
 

JradM

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I was thinking this might be a good case for Ridgid power tools and their LSA. If the batteries die prematurely - get new ones.
 

seber

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No wood box is going to keep mice out. They will just chew through it. Some metal tool boxes are mouse proof. I know Snap-on boxes are but I'd bet some of the cheaper ones are as well. By the way, three feet is an unhandy width for a work bench. most are around 28 to thirty inches.
 
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mark-NJ

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I never said "wood box". I said "...(approx) 32" high roll-around "bottom" with about 7 drawers for under the bench. It needs to be a well-sealed box to keep the mice out. Sloppy drawers with gaps need not apply."

I'm still having a hard time believing that field mice can squeeze through 1/8" gaps around the drawers on a roll-around. Here's a HF photo (though I'm not married to HF...it's just a pic) and I really can't see mice getting into this:

64162_I.jpg
 
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alinc100

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If I was starting over/setting up what you propose I'd look long and hard at Milwaukee M12 line, I think this is a great price today at HD:
maybe in your case opt for the multi tool ? Last time I bought these set as a flip I got the 3/8 ratchet and sold it stand alone for a good amount of cash, sold the impact and drill for near retail, allowing me to keep a set with minimal cash outlay. For the mice aspect maybe dewalt tstak/toughstack/CraftsmanVersastack or Milwaukee Packout. I believe most of those have gasketed/tight/locking lids, drawer units are not sealed,though.
 

dscheidt

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No wood box is going to keep mice out. They will just chew through it. Some metal tool boxes are mouse proof. I know Snap-on boxes are but I'd bet some of the cheaper ones are as well. By the way, three feet is an unhandy width for a work bench. most are around 28 to thirty inches.
Mice managed to make a home in a locked snap-on krl roll cab in my parents barn. Made a nice nest in the shop manual that was in one of the drawers. fortunately, it was cold when I sold it....
 
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mark-NJ

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Mice managed to make a home in a locked snap-on krl roll cab in my parents barn. Made a nice nest in the shop manual that was in one of the drawers.

That is simply amazing to me. I know they can squeeze through small spaces, but that's incredible. Makes me re-think the roll-around.
 

LOW1

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We live in the states but have a cabin in Canada So I can relate. if you are going to go the HF route I suggest that you go the high end HF stuff. Or even upgrade and get a few higher end tools. Not snap on, but a few Knipex and channel lock pliers and a good screwdriver set and a good jig saw go A long ways. I have dewalt cordless drills and they are left frozen all winter and have been fine.

a good tape measure is useful as are some basic squares And levels. I use a wire stripping pliers frequently for electrical stuff,

i think a HF tool chest would be splendid.

some fernco and shark bite connectors, a good plunger-and a roll of pex would be handy.

a box of those assorted screws and bolts that you can buy has come in handy For me.

is the cabin near a good hardware store? If not replacement parts will be needed. What is most likely to break at the cabin? Water systems can be vulnerable so lay in a supply of under sink drainage lines, washers and other stuff, a few supply lines, a toilet repair kit and perhaps a toilet flange repair kit with wax ring. Do you have a well? Water pumps and switches can fail. Perhaps some replacement electrical plugs and switches. Window screen replacement is a regular project for me. So do an inventory of what you have and what is most likely to break.

mice troubles? Once you are there you will be able to trap and poison them more easily. And bring a hungry cat. And no cat food.
 

belvedere

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For a tool chest, US Generals are a very good value.

As to batteries, in general, LiIons hold their charge for a long time compared to other chemistries. Another point: people think that freezing temps kill Li batteries, but that is not the case. What does kill them is charging them while frozen. So, a battery is frozen and discharged. Throw it on a charger, and it never works right again. Conclusion: freezing killed the battery. No. If the battery would've been allowed to completely thaw (and it takes more time than you'd think to thaw all the way through), then it could've been charged safely.
 

belvedere

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mice troubles? Once you are there you will be able to trap and poison them more easily. And bring a hungry cat. And no cat food.
Please don't mix the poison and the cat. Just use one or the other. If a cat eats a poisoned mouse, the cat will die, too.
 
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mark-NJ

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Howdy folks,

If you have a moment, I'd like to revisit this thread of mine. First of all, I have the toolbox:


It's not a roll-around for under the bench, but it will work just fine.

Next, I'm starting to put together a tool list. I have enough duplications at home that I don't need to buy "everything", but tomorrow I'm going to....

- Go to Horrible Freight with a budget of about $150-200 (this application does not need Snap-On, Mac, etc.) and stock up on the basics: combo wrenches (imperial & metric), 6-pt socket sets (imp & metric), screw drivers, pliers, cutters, files, hammers, crescent wrenches, channel-locks, etc.

My question today is to gather your thoughts on sockets. At home, I have 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2 drive...shallow & deep...6 & 12 point, Metric & SAE (Imperial). That's 24 sets, not including impact sockets. I started making a list, knowing the importance of owning all of those, but now I'm thinking "not so fast".

I understand that shallow sockets get you in places that a "deep" won't go (especially under the hood), but I don't see that as an issue I'm likely to face. And I no longer use 12pt at all. So I'm thinking of forgoing shallows, 12pt & 1/2 drive and just getting:

1/4, deep, 6-point, Metric
1/4, deep, 6-point, SAE
3/8, deep, 6-point, Metric
3/8, deep, 6-point, SAE

I can't imagine a job at the cottage that will mandate shallow sockets, and there's nothing that will require 1/2 drive. I surely don't need impacts. And 12pt? Nope.

Sure, nothing is sexier than opening a tool drawer and seeing hundreds of sockets all lined up, but let's be real here...that's not the goal of this project. Question: is there a reason to outfit this cottage in the woods with anything except the 4 sets mentioned? I'm thinking "no". Aside from tight clearance issues (of which there likely aren't any), there's nothing a shallow can do that a deep can't, right?

Whatsay ye...?
 
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sk farmer

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yes there is something. get into small spaces.

deep sockets are heavier, take up more room and will generally cost more since they generally come as a set of sockets only and come with no ratchets, extensions or other accessories. the choice is up to you but i would go shallow first.
 

dscheidt

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Howdy folks,

If you have a moment, I'd like to revisit this thread of mine. First of all, I have the toolbox:


It's not a roll-around for under the bench, but it will work just fine.

Next, I'm starting to put together a tool list. I have enough duplications at home that I don't need to buy "everything", but tomorrow I'm going to....



My question today is to gather your thoughts on sockets. At home, I have 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2 drive...shallow & deep...6 & 12 point, Metric & SAE (Imperial). That's 24 sets, not including impact sockets. I started making a list, knowing the importance of owning all of those, but now I'm thinking "not so fast".

I understand that shallow sockets get you in places that a "deep" won't go (especially under the hood), but I don't see that as an issue I'm likely to face. And I no longer use 12pt at all. So I'm thinking of forgoing shallows, 12pt & 1/2 drive and just getting:

1/4, deep, 6-point, Metric
1/4, deep, 6-point, SAE
3/8, deep, 6-point, Metric
3/8, deep, 6-point, SAE
If were to have only one set of sockets, it would be short. I use them 90% of the time, most of the jobs I use a deep for could be done with a short and an extension, most of the rest could be done with a wrench. There are lots of times you need a short socket, not just on cars, but on all sorts of things.
 

Xcursion88

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This will keep those rat bastards (not talking about mafia informants 🤣🤣🤣) out of your tools.
20220520_144622.jpg
This stack total was around $260

You can move them in any ranked order...(water proof within reason)

It's not flimsy whatsoever.

Get two of them if you need...you're stil dollars ahead and no critter is getting into those!!!

The one you see I have bigger stuff carpentry related on the bottom. Circular saw, jigsaw, compact flooring saw, Orbital sander, multi tool, etc.. laser square...
Next biggest I have drill stuff, grinder and stuff related...driver and bits

The smallest is a plumbing and electrical box...
Wire nuts, shark fittings, pex cutters, tubing cutters, dykes, needle nose,

Good luck
 

Dave455

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Howdy folks,

If you have a moment, I'd like to revisit this thread of mine. First of all, I have the toolbox:


It's not a roll-around for under the bench, but it will work just fine.

Next, I'm starting to put together a tool list. I have enough duplications at home that I don't need to buy "everything", but tomorrow I'm going to....



My question today is to gather your thoughts on sockets. At home, I have 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2 drive...shallow & deep...6 & 12 point, Metric & SAE (Imperial). That's 24 sets, not including impact sockets. I started making a list, knowing the importance of owning all of those, but now I'm thinking "not so fast".

I understand that shallow sockets get you in places that a "deep" won't go (especially under the hood), but I don't see that as an issue I'm likely to face. And I no longer use 12pt at all. So I'm thinking of forgoing shallows, 12pt & 1/2 drive and just getting:

1/4, deep, 6-point, Metric
1/4, deep, 6-point, SAE
3/8, deep, 6-point, Metric
3/8, deep, 6-point, SAE

I can't imagine a job at the cottage that will mandate shallow sockets, and there's nothing that will require 1/2 drive. I surely don't need impacts. And 12pt? Nope.

Sure, nothing is sexier than opening a tool drawer and seeing hundreds of sockets all lined up, but let's be real here...that's not the goal of this project. Question: is there a reason to outfit this cottage in the woods with anything except the 4 sets mentioned? I'm thinking "no". Aside from tight clearance issues (of which there likely aren't any), there's nothing a shallow can do that a deep can't, right?

Whatsay ye...?
My advice would be just go for the shallow.

Yes, deep sockets are nice to have, but I find there are very few situations where I really need them.

In fact, I don’t carry deep sockets in my road box at all now. Shallows and box end wrenches work fine for most jobs.

I’d probably want sets of Torx and hex bit sockets before getting deeps.
 

Al Borland

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Jan 20, 2016
Messages
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For a box, look for a used Kennedy with the drawer covers.
Consider Ryobi for a dedicated cordless drill. etc., They are Cheap and Work!
Consider adding some fresh Basil to the toolbox. Critters and bugs don't seem to enjoy Basil or Mint.
 

Bockscar

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We live in the states but have a cabin in Canada So I can relate. if you are going to go the HF route I suggest that you go the high end HF stuff. Or even upgrade and get a few higher end tools. Not snap on, but a few Knipex and channel lock pliers and a good screwdriver set and a good jig saw go A long ways. I have dewalt cordless drills and they are left frozen all winter and have been fine.

a good tape measure is useful as are some basic squares And levels. I use a wire stripping pliers frequently for electrical stuff,

i think a HF tool chest would be splendid.

some fernco and shark bite connectors, a good plunger-and a roll of pex would be handy.

a box of those assorted screws and bolts that you can buy has come in handy For me.

is the cabin near a good hardware store? If not replacement parts will be needed. What is most likely to break at the cabin? Water systems can be vulnerable so lay in a supply of under sink drainage lines, washers and other stuff, a few supply lines, a toilet repair kit and perhaps a toilet flange repair kit with wax ring. Do you have a well? Water pumps and switches can fail. Perhaps some replacement electrical plugs and switches. Window screen replacement is a regular project for me. So do an inventory of what you have and what is most likely to break.

mice troubles? Once you are there you will be able to trap and poison them more easily. And bring a hungry cat. And no cat food.
Not all cats are created equal regardless if hungry or not....you need a good mouser.....stop at a dairy farm and grab a kitten if they have any to give
 

RTM

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Do you really need metric at the cottage? Or is that for fixing cars once they get there? Most cottages I know have mostly old stuff furnishing them, so you might run into square nuts in places.


But 90% of my around the house is done w standard sockets.
 

matthew

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Mice can get into holes smaller than the diameter of a pencil. On my family’s farm they got into a combine cab through a hole drilled for a wire for a radio aerial...

For that sort of use, metal hand boxes on a shelf are probably a good choice.
 

matthew

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Myself, unless you’ve got machinery to work on, the basics needed for a cabin are:
- claw hammer
- 3lb hammer (I like crosspeins)
- hatchet
- axe
- hacksaw
- handsaw
- fine file
- coarse file
- few punches
- chisels, maybe a few wood and a few cold chisels
- multi-bit screwdriver
- a few good fixed blade screwdrivers
- pry bar or two
- paint can opener
- paintbrush
- high quality adjustable wrench, maybe 2 or 3 sizes
- water pump pliers
- long nose pliers
- Vise Grip 7WR
- Vise Grip 6LN
- couple of clamps
- diagonal cutter
- wire stripper
- utility knife
- flashlight
- tape measure
- Allen keys

I’d even consider a corded drill, being careful to keep it in a metal box so mice don’t chew the cord. If you have a charger for cordless, same advice.

Sockets and wrenches are useful, but most plumbing, electrical, etc doesn’t need them. A basic 1/4 and 3/8 socket set would be something I’d add later if I came across a deal.
 

Kent_B

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Messages
1,406
Location
MI
Re: your 3' x 10' workbench top made from 2 x 10. Don't make the same mistake I did when I built my similar bench top (16') I assembled it on the floor and then with my son lifted it onto the framework. Jaybuz! that SOB is heavy. Assemble it in place. Your back and fingers will thank you for it later.
 
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