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Setting up my LASER cutter/engraver

EOC_Jason

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That's cool... Very custom for a keyboard, you could even do something crazy like paint the vowels a different color... lol.

I've had the same MS keyboard since 2001-ish... Cleaned it off many time with rubbing alcohol... None of the keys have wore in the slightest. I think they are probably molded in and not painted on because you can see where some keys have become smooth over time yet the lettering is still perfect. The reality for me though is I rarely look down at the keyboard, maybe just for special symbols.
 
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James_B

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Most of the older (and more expensive) keyboards were a double shot design, with the designations moulded into the keys in a different colour plastic. I haven't seen a double shot keyboard supplied with a computer in over a decade. I had a number of aftermarket PS/2 style keyboards that were double shot models, but without an adapter, these days they are useless on USB keyboard style computers.

The last 4 laptops I've owned (3 Dells and an Acer) all had painted on key designations. I got the keyboard in my first Dell laptop replaced under warranty when the designations wore off within the warranty period.

My current Acer is 18 months old and as well as a whole block of keys erratically refusing to function, already some of the keys have lost their designations. My solution for the Acer is to replace the keyboard with an identically sized and compatible keyboard from a later model Acer that has moulded designations. The moulding is not for designation longevity, but so that the keys can be back-lit. The back-lit capability is a plus.
 

warbird

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Nov 16, 2013
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could you do a etching in brass or copper that could be used in a soldering gun to brand leather?
 
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James_B

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could you do a etching in brass or copper that could be used in a soldering gun to brand leather?
My LASER is just 50 watts, and doesn't have enough power to etch metal that deeply. I can just get it to mark the surface of bare metal if I run it at full power and minimum tracking speed, and do multiple passes ... but the surface is just barely marked.

One option would be to coat a block of copper in an acid resistant paint, use the LASER to remove the paint in selected areas, and then etch the copper like a printed circuit board.

I used to run a PC board lab in the 70s, so I know how the process works, although at that time, I used a UV sensitive photo resist and high contrast "Kodalith" negative film to put the patterned etch resistant coating on the copper surface of the printed circuit board. When I get around to setting up the etching equipment, I'll be trying the LASER and resistant paint method to do printed circuit boards.

There's a Scottish Clanware supplier in another part of Nova Scotia that uses their LASER (identical brand to mine but smaller) to directly etch clan designs into leather.
 
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James_B

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A friend contacted me last night to see if I could duplicate a video game themed water bottle that they used to sell on Think Geek, but which has since been discontinued.

Original:

portal_aperture_stainless_steel_water_bottles_1.jpg


portal_aperture_stainless_steel_water_bottles_3.jpg


My copy:





He's very pleased with the result.
 

Kevin54

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James....if you get into a bind and have any questions, ask fellow member Deere2210 as he has been doing laser engraving for quite some time now.

All I know is that I need a new toy :rocker:
 
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James_B

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James....if you get into a bind and have any questions, ask fellow member Deere2210 as he has been doing laser engraving for quite some time now.

All I know is that I need a new toy :rocker:
I've had my LASER "toy" since late 2009, although there have been a couple of extended periods when I couldn't use it due to house renovations stirring up dust (a $600 lens went bang when I forgot to check that it was clean before I started a run), or when it was packed for moving and it took a while to decide on a suitable clean and warm location to set it up in the new house.
 

Fugio

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Dec 5, 2014
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Yup. I know a number of people that are doing etching onto leather, but I haven't tried it myself. I have heard that it is a bit "aromatic".

FYI, we run a business out of our home and 95% of what we do is cutting and engraving leather.

And yes, it smells awful outside our house. :)

I just cut/engrave stuff for fun, but my wife's business has grown so much that I've had to cut back to part-time hours to keep up with her shipping and supplies!

Here's some of her stuff if you care to look:

https://www.etsy.com/shop/SurlyBunny
 
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James_B

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Back in October of last year, I posted about the TARDIS model that I'd been working on for 4 years.
I've reached the point where what looks like complicated interlocking wooden pieces aren't really a challenge, and something like the shooter packaging was a quick and easy project in CorelDRAW. I suspect that 4 years of on and off tinkering with my Dr Who TARDIS model has taught me a lot of things. Here's how it was 4 years ago.



It's since got a lot more refined and I'm working on a special commission to create a Christmas present for a friend's Dr Who mad niece. I have one of the old blue painted TARDIS models plus the latest variant on the table display, and they are garnering a lot of interest. A number of commissions for other work has been received based on the client seeing what we could do with simple 1/8" Masonite sheet.
Well, here's a couple of photos of the one I've just made.





There were still a few detail fixes to be done when this photo was taken, but its about 99% completed.

It's almost entirely constructed from LASER cut and engraved pieces that are all cut from a single 610mm by 305mm (2 feet by 1 foot) piece of 3mm thick (~1/8") Masonite. There are a few non-Masonite pieces (a short length of 8mm plastic tube that is cut from the barrel of a Bic pen, 4 toothpicks, some drafting film, a few inkjet printed labels, and a piece of thin foam sheet under the base to protect whatever surface it's placed upon), but essentially it's just Masonite that's been cut, assembled, glued, and painted.

All the trim around the door panels and windows that looks like its an attached wood moulding piece is achieved by using the LASER's 3D mode to carve a 45 degree chamfer into the edge of the Masonite. To get an idea of the scale, each block of 6 windows measures roughly 1 inch high by 3/4 inch wide.

Other than the glue needed to assemble the pieces of the peaked roof and the wooden cage around the plastic tube that makes up the roof light, the whole unit is cut to such tight tolerances that it can be assembled without glue or fasteners. It's all constructed like an intricate wooden puzzle.

The painting takes forever. I'm applying thinned down interior water based paint with a single action airbrush. It needs at least 5 coats of the thinned down paint to get full coverage ... however at that scale, using an airbrush and thinned paint in very light layers means that I have a lot of control over the quality of the paint finish. I use a Binks Wren "B" Airbrush that I've owned for 4 decades. Many cheap plastic single action airbrushes are shameless copies of the Binks Wren design. I have one of those copies as a secondary airbrush.

The model in the photographs has had a hard life, and needed repairs done before it was even finished. We have a 150 pound Newfoundland, and his tail is like a fur covered baseball bat. Things that you think are safe, are still within the range of his swinging tail, and this poor TARDIS was knocked off the table and onto the floor boards ... twice. Fortunately, as long as I had a stock of 3mm thick Masonite, I could make all the replacement parts I needed, and the replacement parts fitted exactly the same as the original parts. Other than lost time, there was no other loss.

The whole project grew out of a couple of Shoji Style Tea Lights that I cut using a file I downloaded from the Thingiverse web site.

This assembled but unpainted early version from 2010, with an old Nokia cell phone leaning against it as a reference will give you an idea of the physical size.



I can't sell them as I don't have a license from the BBC, so I use the model as a design exercise to show people what I can do with my machine.

Back in late 2010, a business contact took three samples of my models (one kit, one assembled but unpainted, and one fully painted and detailed model) with her when she flew to London for licensing talks with the BBC about expanding her own line of officially licensed Dr Who products.

The news I got back from my friend was that the BBC liked what I'd done, but wanted a lot of changes to the design, and considered that my proposed price for the kit was too high.

I spent some time attempting to implement the design changes the BBC wanted, and eventually decided that it was more trouble than it was worth. My decision was reinforced by my knowledge that there was no way I could cut my costs to the sort of figure the BBC had in mind. The production of a complete kit of parts required just over 30 minutes of LASER cutting/engraving time, and due to the inherent risk of a fire in the LASER cabinet, while a kit is being cut, the LASER can't safely be left unattended.

In the end, other than the occasional tinkering with the files, I pretty much abandoned the project until late 2014.

As I mentioned in my earlier post, a few months ago, a friend asked if I would make a model for her that she could give to her Dr Who mad niece for Christmas. As the old 2010 vintage models were looking a bit tired and I could see so many ways I could improve the design, I used the request as an excuse to revise the cutting files to incorporate all the changes that the BBC wanted, and add more detailing. My end goal was to have display pieces that would better showcase my skills to potential clients of my custom work.

The biggest challenge was going from a simple flat roof to a far more complex but realistic sloping roof. It's only a 10 degree slope on the roof, but cutting the parts with edges that were 10 degrees to the perpendicular was something the LASER was not designed to do. A lot of trial and error over the past 4 years has lead me to a method of cutting small parts on an angle, however the size of the parts and the angles I can deal with are limited by the optical components in my LASER system. Purchasing a longer focal length final focus lens will allow me to deal with larger parts or bigger angles, but it's still just an inelegant workaround and even with the longer focal length lens, the items will still have physical dimension limits.

I'm just about to start the assembly and painting of the new copy for my craft market table display. Here's all the parts needed for assembly, unceremoniously dumped into a plastic 4 litre ice cream container after I took them off the cutting table in the LASER.

 
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