Severely uneven gap at garage door threshold

[midiman]

I recently (or should I say FINALLY) replaced an old one piece wooden flip-out garage door with a decent roll-up door. The flip-out door had a piece cut yo match the random gap at the bottom, but the roll-up door does not have that luxury.

My initial instincts say to go straight for concrete, etc. but with the oddness of the gap, I can't figure out how to build a form that would do the trick.

Maybe there's another option?
A friend of mine suggested using asphalt patch to build it up.
Another idea was to build it up like a tiny brick wall.

Not as concerned with looks as much as getting a decent seal to keep out critters and weather, but I don't want it to look too much like a ghetto hack job.

The attached picture of the outside shows how bad it really is and the red circle highlights an X where I marked where the garage floor "crosses the level or the bottom of the door. In other words, to the right of the X the door seal goes below the floor level, to the left of the X the seal ends up above the floor level.

I can deal with the inside looking a little funky but I'll try to make the outside not too noticeable.

Thanks in advance. Any ideas (besides pouring a new garage floor and driveway) would be a huge help.

 

[joey1320]

Maybe find a nice piece of aluminum and cut/fit and paint to match the door bottom at an angle? Or a thicker more pliable seal?

 

[Jrad235]

So is the inside floor of the garage flat and level or does it slope the same? If sloped, call a mudjacking company. If not, cut a 2x6 on a diagonal for the driveway side form and mix up some quickcrete.

 

[midiman]

Maybe find a nice piece of aluminum and cut/fit and paint to match the door bottom at an angle? Or a thicker more pliable seal?

Just thought of that approach too! Maybe mounting the seal channel at an angle. Would have to fabricate something custom as you said because the existing channel is not deep enough to mount any way but flush.
.

 

[jstroede]

They make adjustable bottom retainers for sectional overhead doors in various sizes.

For example...

https://www.garagedoorweatherseal.com/product/garage-door-bottom-seal-retainer/

Most dealers have it or can get it. You trim it to your liking and paint to match.

John

 

[midiman]

So is the inside floor of the garage flat and level or does it slope the same? If sloped, call a mudjacking company. If not, cut a 2x6 on a diagonal for the driveway side form and mix up some quickcrete.

Here's a picture I thought i had up earlier.
The inside is actually most of the problem with making a form I think because the bottom of the door goes below the floor level on one side and above it on the other.
I considered what you suggest and just running the concrete into the garage and blend it in but sounds risky for my minimal experience with cement in general.

Trying to keep it as low cost as possible, but a concrete pro may be the ticket.

 

[Turbo]

It looks like the door itself is crooked, look at the horizontal lines on the door , and then at the siding. Adjust the cables if possible, if its not easy to do call in a garage door guy, be safe. Terry

Just saw your 2nd pic, that changes what i posted above, replace the slab.

 

[The Cobbler]

It looks like the door itself is crooked, look at the horizontal lines on the door , and then at the siding. Adjust the cables if possible, if its not easy to do call in a garage door guy, be safe. Terry

I don't think so. the garage door is installed level , the garage is lower on the LH side, probably from settling. the siding is off level from one side to the other .
probably the easiest fix is the adjustable threshold noted above

 

[midiman]

It looks like the door itself is crooked, look at the horizontal lines on the door , and then at the siding. Adjust the cables if possible, if its not easy to do call in a garage door guy, be safe. Terry

Just saw your 2nd pic, that changes what i posted above, replace the slab.

The funny thing about our modest little '59 Rambler is that the garage door is now probably the one thing that is actually level, plumb and square!

 

[midiman]

I don't think so. the garage door is installed level , the garage is lower on the LH side, probably from settling. the siding is off level from one side to the other .
probably the easiest fix is the adjustable threshold noted above

Yes, lot's of settling before we bought in '98 but surprisingly (and luckily) none to speak of since. I'm with you and I like jstroede's link to the deeper channel. I think that may be the ticket.

 

[Bad00SS]

when I bought my house it was exactly this bad. I took a 2x4 and ripped it at the same angle as the floor and screwed it to the bottom of my door then put the rubber seal back on. Later on when I had money I paid a concrete lifting place to mud jack the whole garage where it was cracked and broken. everything is perfectly level now and I took the board off and put a normal seal on the bottom.

 

[Monza Harry]

You do not necessarily replace the whole floor. While not ideal you can cut a section from inside and/or outside the garage, a foot or four back and blend to what you need for now. I agree that a full replace [or slab jack] of floor, straighten of the building would be best, but some heavy labour and $500/$1000 in materials may make this passable until the big job can be tackled. I have a section that no longer matches up from driveway to garage floor. I have some excavation I want to do, so I plan on a 4' cut, dig, and do the plumbing I want to do, and then do a temporary slab blended in, let settle and do the whole driveway later (I Hope about 24 Cubic Meters of Crete $$$$) Harry

 

[nadogail]

Have you considered a door bottom seal made from a section of old fire hose?

 

[CraigStu]

I'd do that aluminum edge piece in a heartbeat. My second choice would be to add concrete. The best way to do a garage floor is have the portion that the door seals to about 3/4 inch lower than the rest of the floor. This is so no water comes inside. Sounds like you have that on one side. I'd be tempted to read up on which concrete would be best to use to raise the seal area and just taper it back into the floor. the aluminum edge is going to take < 1 hour, the concrete a day. I really like that aluminum.

 

[Kevin54]

If it were mine, I would have the section of the floor cut out from side to side and back maybe 2 foot, and pour some new concrete. THe concrete will then be level at the door but can be blended back into the floor

 

[rayra]

Yes, a new sill / apron. Providing the garage interior slab is not that far out of level, too. If so, OP needs to look into mudjacking.

 

[Kevin54]

Yes, a new sill / apron. Providing the garage interior slab is not that far out of level, too. If so, OP needs to look into mudjacking.

If you look at the pics, the floor is cracked and settled. Mudjacking will not work and would be more expensive than cutting it out.

 

[Bad00SS]

If you look at the pics, the floor is cracked and settled. Mudjacking will not work and would be more expensive than cutting it out.

Explain. I mud jacked mine right at the door and it fixed everything. went from a 1-2" gap at one end to perfect within an hour of them working on it. they worked back from the door and got my whole garage leveled out. it was broken in prolly 6 big chunks. it was $400. I'd assume if I paid them to saw cut the area, then jack hammer it out and then new concrete would be well over $400.