So I just put the Seville Classic workbench together.
Here is the unboxing.
Screw inserts into the top that will hold it down to the supports. All of them where drilled to a depth of .8" to .9"
Here are the supports laying on the top.
A shot of the threaded inserts through the supports.
Here is how it was supposed to be secured per the supplied hardware.
Here is what I did. I went and got 25mm M8s and 5/16" lockwashers. Then I cut 3" strips of barstock and drilled a 5/16" hole. Then used the supplied flat washer, the lock washer and the barstock. Overkill? Yes. Peace of mind. YES!
Here it is standing up and put together. Since it did not come with lock washers I used them on all locations not just for securing the top. There were 26 M8 fasteners. Only 8 hold down the top. Also, per the pics of the top upside down you can see there is a difference of overhang from front to back. You can either install it so the legs are out front with only 5/8" overhang or you can flip the legs around and you will have several inches of overhang. I chose to put the legs out front. I did this for three reasons. One I wanted any tool chest under the table to be flush with the legs. If it was further back, the drawers would be obscured by the top and make it harder to get things in the back of the drawers. Because the whole chest would be further back and closer to the wall, but top would be in the same place. Second, I wanted the leg support to be right under my vise instead of it being mount out beyond the supports. I could see me doing something stupid and actually snapping off the corner of my table. Third, I'd rather have the space behind the bench where I can use it. Back there I will most likely store good pieces of cardboard, wood,...etc. It is only a few inches between the legs and the wall, but still I will use it.
Next I plan on using some 1-1/2" angle iron to bolt it to the wall. I will inset the angle iron the depth of a 2x4 under the top. Then I will bolt the 2/4 to the wall. The top will slide over the top of the 2x4 and then the top touches the wall the angle iron underneath will just be touching the 2x4. This way I don't need to worry about lining up the table and the holes in the angle iron to a stud. The 2x4 will be doing that.
Overall I am happy with the table. I am not happy with my very angled floor. I had to raise up one end about 2.5cm. It makes it look like my rolling chest is broke. I will most like build a support system under the table similar to Steevo's Harborfreight tool chest workbench build.
P.S. Yes, I know that vise is not worth of the vises of GJ thread. I am desperately trying to find a Wilton 1755. I think the 1765 will be too big, and feel a 1745 might be too small.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126086
Here is the unboxing.
Screw inserts into the top that will hold it down to the supports. All of them where drilled to a depth of .8" to .9"
Here are the supports laying on the top.
A shot of the threaded inserts through the supports.
Here is how it was supposed to be secured per the supplied hardware.
Here is what I did. I went and got 25mm M8s and 5/16" lockwashers. Then I cut 3" strips of barstock and drilled a 5/16" hole. Then used the supplied flat washer, the lock washer and the barstock. Overkill? Yes. Peace of mind. YES!
Here it is standing up and put together. Since it did not come with lock washers I used them on all locations not just for securing the top. There were 26 M8 fasteners. Only 8 hold down the top. Also, per the pics of the top upside down you can see there is a difference of overhang from front to back. You can either install it so the legs are out front with only 5/8" overhang or you can flip the legs around and you will have several inches of overhang. I chose to put the legs out front. I did this for three reasons. One I wanted any tool chest under the table to be flush with the legs. If it was further back, the drawers would be obscured by the top and make it harder to get things in the back of the drawers. Because the whole chest would be further back and closer to the wall, but top would be in the same place. Second, I wanted the leg support to be right under my vise instead of it being mount out beyond the supports. I could see me doing something stupid and actually snapping off the corner of my table. Third, I'd rather have the space behind the bench where I can use it. Back there I will most likely store good pieces of cardboard, wood,...etc. It is only a few inches between the legs and the wall, but still I will use it.
Next I plan on using some 1-1/2" angle iron to bolt it to the wall. I will inset the angle iron the depth of a 2x4 under the top. Then I will bolt the 2/4 to the wall. The top will slide over the top of the 2x4 and then the top touches the wall the angle iron underneath will just be touching the 2x4. This way I don't need to worry about lining up the table and the holes in the angle iron to a stud. The 2x4 will be doing that.
Overall I am happy with the table. I am not happy with my very angled floor. I had to raise up one end about 2.5cm. It makes it look like my rolling chest is broke. I will most like build a support system under the table similar to Steevo's Harborfreight tool chest workbench build.
P.S. Yes, I know that vise is not worth of the vises of GJ thread. I am desperately trying to find a Wilton 1755. I think the 1765 will be too big, and feel a 1745 might be too small.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126086
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