Sewing machine for heavier weight fabric

[Ohio Andy]

I've considered getting a heavier duty sewing machine just for that sort of thing. When I was really young, my mother was showing me the drive belts on different sewing machines. She was telling me that her heavier fabrics you needed a more robust drive belt.

She was not mechanical and I was very young. I did not even know that industrial machines existed back then. I was shocked the first time I saw sewing machine sewing leather.

 

[dscheidt]

I will say that the manual doesn’t explain how to adjust or lubricant the clutch, I’ll try to find more info on this. I need to also look up how to tension the threads correctly. I’m hoping to get it in my shop and start getting it ready. I need to put a new (and grounded) cord on it, but may wait until I go with a servo or not.

The sewing machine was supplied without a motor, so they don't cover it in the manual. Typically, the dealer puts it in a table and provides a motor, but a lot of machines that went into factories were supplied as just the machine, and the factory took care of the table and motor, often by replacing an older machine. The motor manufacturer would have a manual, but they're largely similar, especially anything made since the 60s. Typically, there's an adjustment for the free play before the clutch engages, and for the brake (push the back of the pedal with your heel, but it's usually adjusted so it's engaged when you take your foot of the pedal, so the machine stops quickly.). The operating arm also usually has multiple places to hook the treadle rod to, the farther out it is, the more pedal travel is required, which makes it a bit easier to manipulate. The whole clutch comes off, so that the cork lining can be cleaned when it gets glazed, or replaced when it's worn out. There are videos on how to clean and adjust them.

 

[Ohmthis]

The sewing machine was supplied without a motor, so they don't cover it in the manual. Typically, the dealer puts it in a table and provides a motor, but a lot of machines that went into factories were supplied as just the machine, and the factory took care of the table and motor, often by replacing an older machine. The motor manufacturer would have a manual, but they're largely similar, especially anything made since the 60s. Typically, there's an adjustment for the free play before the clutch engages, and for the brake (push the back of the pedal with your heel, but it's usually adjusted so it's engaged when you take your foot of the pedal, so the machine stops quickly.). The operating arm also usually has multiple places to hook the treadle rod to, the farther out it is, the more pedal travel is required, which makes it a bit easier to manipulate. The whole clutch comes off, so that the cork lining can be cleaned when it gets glazed, or replaced when it's worn out. There are videos on how to clean and adjust them.

Thanks! I will check things out. I have seen where people have modified the foot pedal (by adding holes closer to the pivot) to get more control. The rod comes off of the top of my foot pedal. It may be worth checking out the motor/clutch side as well as move the rod closer to the pivot.