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"Shade tree" OBD2 scanner/software for 2014 Chevy Spark

m1ckDELTA

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Sep 1, 2018
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California
OBD2 scanner/software for 2014 Chevy Spark

This is my first post so, "Greetings!"

I'm looking for a an OBD2 tool that can read OEM engine, transmission, and electrical codes that provide enough information for me to diagnose problems and research repair costs online before going to the dealer. I take a lot of road trips and before leaving I want to know with some measure of confidence that the Spark is good to go.

I started my research about four hours ago at "tomsguide" with the article titled, "15 Cheap OBD II Scanners (Under $100), Ranked Best to Worst".

Now I'm here.

I've already read a few favorable posts here about Autel and Foxwell and I'm starting to come across posts about software for Windows. I'm not inclined toward dongles that use smartphone apps.

RepairSolutions is an appealing add-on but the reviews have been mixed for it and Innova's scanners in general.

My budget is under $200.00 which I know isn't very much.

This is my first day doing any research. I'm hoping to avoid spending a week or more before making an informed decision (as is my usual OCD MO).
 
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Fedwrench

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welcome to the Journal!!:beer:

you're kind of mixing apples and oranges with what you're looking for.

A scan tool doesn't include an estimating guide so, you can't uses it to look up labor operation times, parts prices, etc. to compare/verify a repair shop's estimate.

Most inexpensive scan tools can access powertrain or generic OBD 2 data but, that can't access the body control module where a lot of factory proprietary information lies.

save some money, up your budget to the $500-$700 range and look at Launch or Autel.

At the end of the day, as long as your check engine light isn't on, your spark is about as good as a spark can get :thumbup:
 
OP
M

m1ckDELTA

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Joined
Sep 1, 2018
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California
welcome to the Journal!!:beer:

you're kind of mixing apples and oranges with what you're looking for.

A scan tool doesn't include an estimating guide so, you can't uses it to look up labor operation times, parts prices, etc. to compare/verify a repair shop's estimate.

Most inexpensive scan tools can access powertrain or generic OBD 2 data but, that can't access the body control module where a lot of factory proprietary information lies.

save some money, up your budget to the $500-$700 range and look at Launch or Autel.

At the end of the day, as long as your check engine light isn't on, your spark is about as good as a spark can get :thumbup:

Thanks for such a quick reply. My engine light actually did come on and the response from the dealer was that, "Sometime they just come on and we can't duplicate or find any issues".

Innova's "RepairSolutions" add-on appealed to me because they claim it uses the diagnostic codes to search a database of similar problems and estimate repair costs.

My budget really can't go to the range you suggested, I wish it could. Does that mean I'm out of luck? I saw and posted about a "Flash Sale" on Foxwell and wonder if any of those would do what I want.
 
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Treeman

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Jan 4, 2008
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548
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Michigan
Everyone's needs are different, but it sounds like you want a scan tool that will do "enhanced codes" but probably not one that has bidirectional control. Here's a few things that helped me narrow down the list a year ago:
- You are probably looking at Autel, Launch, Foxwell, and Bluedriver if you want any hope for at least a bit of support from the company.
- Most of these low cost scan tools lag 3 to 5 years behind updating enhanced codes. You need to go to each mfg. site to confirm it will cover your vehicle. I found actron(bosch?) to be the worst with updates.
- At this price level, don't expect perfection. Lots of people complain that on certain model/brands/vintage of vehicle the scan tool doesn't do a particular thing that it claims. That's why pros spend a LOT more on scan tools.

Being a cheap azz and not too technically inclined, I went with the Autel Diaglink, the DiY model of the better 802. Mine comes with only one brand of enhanced code software, but I can update to other mfg. for $10 each. Autel offers lifetime updates for these models. It suits my needs fine and I got it on Amazon fire deal for $90.

Good luck.
 
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OP
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m1ckDELTA

Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2018
Messages
8
Location
California
Everyone's needs are different, but it sounds like you want a scan tool that will do "enhanced codes" but probably not one that has bidirectional control. Here's a few things that helped me narrow down the list a year ago:
- You are probably looking at Autel, Launch, Foxwell, and Bluedriver if you want any hope for at least a bit of support from the company.
- Most of these low cost scan tools lag 3 to 5 years behind updating enhanced codes. You need to go to each mfg. site to confirm it will cover your vehicle. I found actron(bosch?) to be the worst with updates.
- At this price level, don't expect perfection. Lots of people complain that on certain model/brands/vintage of vehicle the scan tool doesn't do a particular thing that it claims. That's why pros spend a LOT more on scan tools.

Being a cheap azz and not too technically inclined, I went with the Autel Diaglink, the DiY model of the better 802. Mine comes with only one brand of enhanced code software, but I can update to other mfg. for $10 each. Autel offers lifetime updates for these models. It suits my needs fine and I got it on Amazon fire deal for $90.

Good luck.

Thanks for the insight. I think I might want bi-directional functionality and I'd rather have it and not need it than the other way 'round, unless it's crazy expensive.

Straight away I like that the cable on the Diaglink is detachable.

What is the DIY difference?
 
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MrDeerHunter

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Nov 19, 2017
Messages
110
Re: OBD2 scanner/software for 2014 Chevy Spark

I love my bluedriver. No issues and it is compact. The updates are worthwhile and the repair guide is typically on point

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

Modern Garage

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Mar 26, 2015
Messages
585
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Southern Minnesota
You probably don't actually need bi-directional control. It's typically used to verify a fault or repair after you know what the problem is. Not to be insulting, but for an amateur it's just as easy to create problems as find them.
I'd like to offer a little advice:
1. The diagnostic help, whether built into the tool memory or searched online is just a list of "greatest hits" from other people who have worked on the same model car. They're useful from ten to fifty percent of the time. You'd like to think they're fixes posted from pros, but they also include a lot of "shotgun" repairs where someone threw a fistful of parts at a problem and then posted the "fix".

1. After you find the definition for your fault code and satisfy your curiosity on the internet and decide that you don't want to try replacing some parts on your own, please don't call me and explain exactly what your car needs. I won't hang up on you physically, but I may hang up mentally and go back to thinking about what I was doing before you called. I make my living repairing cars, not needlessly replacing parts. Some guys are just in it for the money and will happily empty your bank account shoveling part after theory into your car, but professionals want to get the car done right and move on to another puzzle.
I'm not trying to make you angry, I'm just saying tread carefully. You wouldn't like it when your boss sticks his head in your office and proceeds to tell you how to do your job in excruciating detail...

Buy an inexpensive code reader, learn what the the code setting parameters are from the web and educate yourself about what it means so you can tell if you're being led down a dead end, and try to avoid "man-splaining" if you call for help.
Joe
 

Tallpilot

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Fedwrench and Joe both offer some good insights. Your post indicates your primary goal is to adopt a 'trust but verify' posture with your dealer. Unfortunately, if you want to second guess the guys who do this for a living with any sort of accuracy you will need to devote a fair amount of time to learning.

If you want to read a few codes and look at some live data to start the learning process I recommend the AL319 or its updated version. If you want to read actual repair information including labor times and diagnostic flow charts you can buy a short subscription from GM to get it 'from the horse's mouth' or an AlldataDIY subscription for a year. I would avoid MitchellDIY as they exclude a fair amount of information.

https://www.acdelco.com/for-professionals/gm-service-information.html

https://www.alldatadiy.com/

You can save a fair amount of money by doing basic PM yourself. When it comes to diagnostics there is no substitute for knowledge and experience which you must commit to earning or simply find an independent mechanic you can trust. (I know that can be quite difficult). Several independent mechanics in California have YouTube channels; watch them work and see if you like them then go talk to them and explain your need for reliability on your road trips and solicit their advice.

To provide an actual answer to your question the Diaglink will probably give you the most capability on GM for your budget. If you don't have any interest in working on other makes you can get dealer level capability with a J2534 pass through cable and a subscription. An entry level pro scan tool like the Launch Diagun would be a similar cost around $500 but without the recurring fees.

Don't let this be discouraging. You can learn anything you wish and knowledge is much more readily available now that it ever was. But also don't think that a trouble code and a 'book time' for a repair is enough information to determine if your dealer is ripping you off.
 
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paulsomlo

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Thanks for such a quick reply. My engine light actually did come on and the response from the dealer was that, "Sometime they just come on and we can't duplicate or find any issues".

Innova's "RepairSolutions" add-on appealed to me because they claim it uses the diagnostic codes to search a database of similar problems and estimate repair costs.
I had a check engine light on my '96 BMW, came on for three weeks, magically disappeared yesterday. I don't own a scan tool, so I took it to Autozone - they read the code, then they take you inside, hook the scanner up to a computer. The computer then tells you "exactly" what part you need, and how much it costs. I removed the part in question (canister purge valve), bench tested it (tested good), put it back in, light went out two days later.

The moral of the story is, yes, check engine lights can be fleeting, and replacing parts based on OBD codes can be fruitless and expensive. I would never take an OBD code at face value without further diagnostics. If it were me, in the absence of a check engine light, I would just go about my business. If you're not prepared to do any diagnostics beyond reading the codes, let the auto parts store read your codes, I don't know that you'll gain much advantage by having your own scan tool.
 
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m1ckDELTA

Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2018
Messages
8
Location
California
Fedwrench and Joe both offer some good insights. Your post indicates your primary goal is to adopt a 'trust but verify' posture with your dealer. Unfortunately, if you want to second guess the guys who do this for a living with any sort of accuracy you will need to devote a fair amount of time to learning.

If you want to read a few codes and look at some live data to start the learning process I recommend the AL319 or its updated version. If you want to read actual repair information including labor times and diagnostic flow charts you can buy a short subscription from GM to get it 'from the horse's mouth' or an AlldataDIY subscription for a year. I would avoid MitchellDIY as they exclude a fair amount of information.

https://www.acdelco.com/for-professionals/gm-service-information.html

https://www.alldatadiy.com/

You can save a fair amount of money by doing basic PM yourself. When it comes to diagnostics there is no substitute for knowledge and experience which you must commit to earning or simply find an independent mechanic you can trust. (I know that can be quite difficult). Several independent mechanics in California have YouTube channels; watch them work and see if you like them then go talk to them and explain your need for reliability on your road trips and solicit their advice.

To provide an actual answer to your question the Diaglink will probably give you the most capability on GM for your budget. If you don't have any interest in working on other makes you can get dealer level capability with a J2534 pass through cable and a subscription. An entry level pro scan tool like the Launch Diagun would be a similar cost around $500 but without the recurring fees.

Don't let this be discouraging. You can learn anything you wish and knowledge is much more readily available now that it ever was. But also don't think that a trouble code and a 'book time' for a repair is enough information to determine if your dealer is ripping you off.

Great info, thanks. "Trust and verify" is a good description. I also want to get a read on my car's state of affairs before heading out on road trips. I'm not interested in being confrontational with the mechanics/technicians responsible for keeping my vehicles reliable, safe, and in good repair, though.

I'm a journeyman in my field and have zero tolerance for amateurs who have little respect for experienced tradesmen. However, I'm not naive about grifters; they exist in every trade/profession. I have even less tolerance for con-men than I do for willfully ignorant amateurs and have been personally responsible for a Florida car dealer losing his dealer's license and business because he attempted to defraud me; "trust and verify" indeed.
 

Mr_B

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Reading
Reading codes is just a small step in real diagnosis .
OP justs needs a basic scanner preferably with all module reading ability so can handle first step of code reading and get a base idea of possible problems and do the basics himself .
 
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m1ckDELTA

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Messages
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California
Reading codes is just a small step in real diagnosis .
OP justs needs a basic scanner preferably with all module reading ability so can handle first step of code reading and get a base idea of possible problems and do the basics himself .

Sounds reasonable. I do like the idea behind Innova's RepairSolutions for ballpark estimates and repair histories, though. It's not like I'm going to demanding the dealership match the RepairSolutions results. I also have an extended warranty with a decent deductible that mitigates repair costs. If, however, RepairSolutions is so far off the mark as to be useless than, of course, I'm not going to throw money away on a gimmick.
 

ihateminimumwage

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There was a website I had bookmarked on my old laptop that I think I was linked to from here. You could put in the Y/M/M and it gave you the time/parts/labor estimate for your area. Don't remember what it was called, but it was free and helped me out doing some side work in between employers maybe 5+ years back?

I carry a simple Autel MaxiScan MS310 in my service truck for any CIL issues, seeing some live data and being able to clear codes/CIL. So far it's been great and worked fine on everything I've plugged it into (Toyota, Subaru, Ford, RAM, GM, etc). It's nice to be able to record the code then clear it and see if it returns. Which for me the majority of the time it's a random brain fart and never returns (O2 sensor signal, injector misfire, low fuel line pressure).
 
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m1ckDELTA

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... it's a random brain fart and never returns (O2 sensor signal, injector misfire, low fuel line pressure).

False warnings and codes are that common???

How does anyone know what needs service or repair anymore? I miss the days when the person who worked on one's car was called a "mechanic".
 

Tallpilot

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I’m not sure I’d call them false codes. I would think most intermittent issues are wiring problems.
 

a52-830

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Thanks for such a quick reply. My engine light actually did come on and the response from the dealer was that, "Sometime they just come on and we can't duplicate or find any issues".

i dont turn a wrench for a living, but it is my impression that the system caches all the codes that are generated, even if the light goes off. so they *know* what the issue was, but maybe it isn't an issue anymore. i dont like getting blown off like that. when i pin them down about it, they act surprised.


False warnings and codes are that common???

How does anyone know what needs service or repair anymore? I miss the days when the person who worked on one's car was called a "mechanic".


well, some things are issues that resolve themselves. some cars throw a code if you dont click the gas cap enough, and the next time you fuel up it goes away because you do. sometimes it is just a loose connection.

i had a 1999 saturn SW. great car, except it always had the engine light on. ya see, the sensors kept failing. the transmission was fine, but the sensor was bad. replacing the sensor was several hundred dollars, but resetting the system with a 30$ reader when it was going for inspection was cheap. before it finally died, there were two or three dead sensors.

the "new way" is both good and bad. "talking" to the car can get the tech further along faster, although it is not sufficient.

30 years ago, people kept their cars for 5 or 6 years, replacing them because they needed to be. today, the *average* age of a car in the US is almost 12 years. (https://www.energy.gov/eere/vehicle...age-cars-and-light-trucks-was-almost-12-years)

cars today are better made, safer, and more efficient. they are also almost infinitely more complex.
 

ihateminimumwage

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Messages
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False warnings and codes are that common???

How does anyone know what needs service or repair anymore? I miss the days when the person who worked on one's car was called a "mechanic".
I work on diesel and gas backup generators, and 4 times out of 5 with callouts it's not an actual mechanical failure, it's the controller, ECM, or sensors.

As far as the codes I listed:

O2 sensor, Wife's 2014 Tacoma, and it killed the gas mileage. Cleared the code, pulled the ECM fuse and let the ECM do a full reset. Milage is back up and no codes returning as it relearned its parameters.

Injector misfire, 2015 RAM gas service truck, started stumbling sitting at a stop and kicked the CIL on. Drove it until I was at my first site, cleared the code and it never came back or stumbled again.

Low fuel line pressure, 2018 Silverado Duramax service truck. Check engine light came on and engine derate for only a minute or so. Scanned it but had to take to the dealer per warranty. They checked it out, cleared the code and said, "Maybe an air bubble."
 

L.Cheapo

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Messages
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i dont turn a wrench for a living, but it is my impression that the system caches all the codes that are generated, even if the light goes off. so they *know* what the issue was, but maybe it isn't an issue anymore. i dont like getting blown off like that. when i pin them down about it, they act surprised.

There are current codes, pending codes, and history codes. And they're pretty much exactly what their names imply.
 
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