Shaft with internal hex on one end

[Captain Spaulding]

I need a new shaft for a trailer jack on a gooseneck trailer.

The shaft is 39" long, 1" ID round, with one end having a 3/4" hex internal diameter. The crank fits into the hex end.

Contacted the manufacturer and was quoted $250

So plan B is to get a piece of 1" ID steel tubing and an extra deep socket. I'll turn down the back part of the socket as required to fit inside the tube, and weld or pin it in place.

There is a bushing on the trailer wall at the hex end of the shaft, so by going with an extra deep socket I get the joint away from the bushing. I may have to replace the bushing, and if so I'm thinking about using a flange mount bearing in its place.

Anybody think of a cheaper way to accomplish this? Any thoughts on welding to the socket? Should I get a standard socket or impact? I'm not much on metallurgy so I don't know what kind of results to expect. Or would I be better to just drill through and use a roll pin or bolt and nut?

Thanks for any input.

 

[hawkeye2]

Mc master Carr has 1” socket head screws with 3/4” hex. You could turn down the treads to fit inside the 1” tube, secret with a couple plug welds.

Bushing May by better than a bearing, less likely to rust.

 

[gorilla]

In my experience sockets are made from hard materials and will destroy a carbide insert quickly. You may want to consider **** welding a deep socket to the end of your tube or machining an adapter from the outside of the socket to the tube.

 

[sberry]

You can weld to sockets for this type of job.

 

[cvairwerks]

Maybe this:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Redline/BAL-24033.html

 

[bwringer]

The cheapest/fastest way would be to weld a cheap socket onto a hunka pipe.

You might also be able to "forge" one end of a hunka pipe into a hex shape. You'd need some sort of hexagonal form of the correct size,

Come to think of it, there are any number of vehicles that used 19mm or 3/4" lug nuts, so a trip to a junk yard could yield several choices for raw materials...

 

[Captain Spaulding]

The cheapest/fastest way would be to weld a cheap socket onto a hunka pipe.

You might also be able to "forge" one end of a hunka pipe into a hex shape. You'd need some sort of hexagonal form of the correct size,

Come to think of it, there are any number of vehicles that used 19mm or 3/4" lug nuts, so a trip to a junk yard could yield several choices for raw materials...

The torque on the handle is pretty good lifting the trailer, so I'm afraid forging might not hold up, though I considered it. The old one failed by cracking at the corners. It has been welded a couple of times, but just practically disintegrated this time.

The handle has about 2-1/2" of hex bar so most lug tools wouldn't be deep enough.

 

[MJD1]

Impact sockets aren't too bad to machine and weld. You may need to get an extra deep socket or in the case of 3/4" hex, a cage bolt socket would give enough depth on the hex.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd probably try a impact socket first over a chrome socket. I think the impact socket may weld better.


Got a picture of what you're trying to make or accomplish ?

 

[Captain Spaulding]

https://media.sandhills.com/img.axd...oIBEEsl4s8BvTFDvO07bUVRqZ2GG6jbk9s4FCX+On5T8=

Not mine, but the same setup. The shaft going from the jack to the side of the trailer. The one in the picture has a gearbox that mine doesn’t have. Hex end is outboard and round is at the jack. I naively assumed it would be a cheap stock item since so many of those jacks are used.

Bizarrely, it would be a little cheaper to convert the jack to electric than buy the shaft from the manufacturer. Problem is I’d have to have a much bigger battery than the breakaway.

 

[Spareparts]

That gearbox on the picture is probaly a 2 speed box, drill it and put a bolt thru it

 

[larry_g]

http://www.greenbaymfgco.com/12L14-sleeves.php

This material is not weldable. But it machines easily.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[kbs2244]

Is there any reason a piece of 3/4 hex stock cannot be inserted into the hole and stick up enough to be turned by a normal 3/4 socket?

 

[NUTTSGT]

I wonder if any of the places near Elkhart would have something like that ?

Bontragers, Johnsons RV surplus

 

[matt_i]

A black oxide impact socket is perfect for this. Near as I can tell they are made from something that's close to SAE 4130 steel. I have welded and machined many of them for special tools and they turn out great and are not "glass-hard" like a chromed uber-thinwall hand-socket.

I'd look at McMaster Carr, they have a 3/4" drive and also a 1" sq drive socket in deep-well lengths. These will have beefy thick walls.

The 41xx steels are medium carbon and would do well with a preheat and post-heat, then slow cool. I would use a regular propane plumbing torch to build and maintain heat. I'd use a regular 7018 stick rod as this will likely have to be done on the trailer, entrapped by one of the uprights for the "neck". Slow cool could be done by wrapping it with a chunk of rockwool insulation (roxul) or some other insulating material which won't burn up due to the heat. Sand and vermiculite come to mind but not as easy to "dip" the shaft end into.

I have a nut and bolt on my GN trailer with round shafts and sleeves. I take the nut and bolt and the S-shaped handle inside when I'm not using the trailer. Just another security measure.

 

[EdT]

Maybe a use part of a 3/4" or 19MM lug wrench from the junk yard (or lying around the shop). I have machined a few socket wrenches and the chrome plating is best ground off since it's really hard (94RC IIR). If I had to buy a socket wrench to do it, I'd get a black oxide one. I like the big Allen screw idea.

 

[Captain Spaulding]

Is there any reason a piece of 3/4 hex stock cannot be inserted into the hole and stick up enough to be turned by a normal 3/4 socket?

Could, but I want to use the crank for the jack. It takes a decent amount of force and a lot of cranking to raise and lower it.

 

[Captain Spaulding]

Maybe a use part of a 3/4" or 19MM lug wrench from the junk yard (or lying around the shop). I have machined a few socket wrenches and the chrome plating is best ground off since it's really hard (94RC IIR). If I had to buy a socket wrench to do it, I'd get a black oxide one. I like the big Allen screw idea.

I just bought a 5" extra deep 3/4" impact socket for about $10. It's long enough it will ride in whatever bearing or bushing I use without having to worry about where the joint to the shaft ends up.

I'm considering using a section of 1" gas pipe for the shaft. Not had any luck sourcing ~1" ID tubing locally, and online I'll spend as much shipping as the material costs.

 

[rlitman]

I'd probably try a impact socket first over a chrome socket. I think the impact socket may weld better...

Agreed. You'd want the chrome off for welding anyway.

I'm in the socket + pipe + weld = done camp.
Except, just make a jig and weld it up. Forget the machining part. It adds nothing to the strength, and sockets are awful to machine. Also, you really want to weld to the thickest part of the socket anyway, because you'll have the least impact on the heat treat here, plus the base is where it will be least likely to crack.

 

[Riggerson]

Impact sockets weld and machine very well. Your plan will be fine if you've got the correct equipment.

 

[Captain Spaulding]

Just to update what I ended up doing. Pretty well what I planned. I bought a 3/4" 5" long impact socket, a section of 1" black pipe and a 1" pillow block bearing. The socket OD was 1.1".

Since I don't have a lathe, I put a 1/2" bolt "backwards" in the socket and tightened a nut down on the square end. Chucked it in an old road find drill with a broken handle, then ground on the socket with a flap disc in an angle grinder while the drill turned the socket. Worked surprisingly well and only took about a half an hour with me exercising an abundance of caution by stopping often to check diameter and uniformity. Nice fit inside the pipe and in the bearing.

Drilled a couple of through holes in the pipe, welded the socket in place. A little grinding to save fingers during use, a coat of paint and it was done. Mounted the bearing on the trailer.

Factory part was $250 and it never was ideal because there was no support at the crank end. My fix works much more smoothly and I have $40, a little paint and welding wire and a couple of hours in it.