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Shallow well vs Deep well pump

bannerd

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Upstate NY
I have a spring fed box that supplies my house with water. The pump went bad (second one in the same year). I started to look at shallow well pumps and was wondering if I should take that route. The box is fed by a bubbling artesian well. It is a 15x15 box filled with 6 feet of water. Our house is about 250-300ft away from the spring box. I thought about building a platform inside the spring house and putting a shallow pump on there. My concern is that our house is so far away that it will not work. The pressure tank sits in the house so it would have to pump up to it.

Let me know.
 
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kbs2244

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You have no need for a deep well pump.
Move the pressure tank to the well house and hook up a shallow well pump.
A shallow pump can only **** from about 20 feet down.
(Not a problem for you since the water come to the surface on it's own.)
But the closer the tank to the pump output the better.
Then you are pushing 60 plus PSI water that 300 feet and not the much lower pump output PSI.
 

Ironhorse74

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We actually have two pumps. One in a deep water well. The other in a cistern. Both are deep water submersible pumps. By having a submersible in the cistern we never have to worry about priming or any of the other things that come with a jet pump.

Just my .02
 
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bannerd

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Upstate NY
Yeah, the pressure tank would freeze when it's -30F up here. Unless I heated the pump house. The issue with the deep well pump I have now (the same ones that get sent down a drilled well) is that the artesian pile up massive amounts of sand and very fine grey silt. I have to pump the box out with a 85gpm pump and leave it running while I dig by hand. If I don't do this once every two years then it starts to pile. Another thing to note, when it builds up massive pressure it sends silt and sand all over the place.

Other than that, the water is very fine drinking water.
 
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bannerd

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On a side note, we're starting a trout pond and I've though about splitting the spring box in half with a concrete barrier. I've plugged the overflow and the springs will go from a 4ft depth in the box to 8ft. The previous owner that put the concrete box in.. put cinder blocks so that the water can go through them if it ever sank(tunnel way). Which works as from time to time I do see water coming out of the cinder blocks in the solid concrete wall.

If I put a concrete wall in there, what are the chances is will just sink down into the earth? I say this , only to know that when I shovel it out, everything just sinks. Maybe the perforated pipe would be an option attached to a pvc solid pipe.
 
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sberry

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You have no need for a deep well pump.
Move the pressure tank to the well house and hook up a shallow well pump.
A shallow pump can only **** from about 20 feet down.
(Not a problem for you since the water come to the surface on it's own.)
But the closer the tank to the pump output the better.
Then you are pushing 60 plus PSI water that 300 feet and not the much lower pump output PSI.

where would the 60# come from?
 

nh_yota

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Seacoast New Hampshire
My parents had a shallow well for years before they had a deep well drilled. Best piece of advice I can give you is to buy a real shallow well pump from a pump dealer and not a cheap one from Home Depot. The good pumps may run $500 or more but they last much longer.
 
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bannerd

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You said the pump went bad, do you mean the motor?

If it was the motor, does your old pump have a 1/2 HP or 3/4 HP motor and are you running 110 volts or 220 volts? Also, what size line do you have feeding the house?

Yeah, when I removed the three nuts that hold the motor on, the screen was plugged with sand. With just the motor and power to it, the motor will not turn. If you tap on it with a hammer it does spin until you turn the power off and back on it goes back to not moving.

The pump is a 3/4 Myers 3 wire 220V pump and the line is a 1 1/4 to the house. The plumber down the road who is local sells the Myers and the replacement is over $400, the Wayne pumps are a low $330.
 

ssdave

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Deep well pumps are designed to draw water past the motor to cool them. When installed in a tank, sometimes you have to put a shroud around them to maintain that cooling pattern. If the screen plugs and the pump runs without water flow, it overheats and goes bad.

Regardless of what type of pump you install, your first order of business should be to figure out a way to keep the sand out of the pump. Draw your water from a level off the bottom and away from the sand source as much as possible. Expand your intake out to as large a intake as you can to minimize the velocity. A large radial screen or box screen at the end will help with this. You might also put a sand diverter fitting in the inlet pipe, but you'll have to either set this up to automatically clean, or manually clean it periodically. A screen box with a lot of screen surface area so it can't clog would be a good idea also. One made with triangular wire won't clog as easily as a mesh wire screen, and self cleans when the pump goes off and the water velocity drops. What you'll find is it is usually the smaller sand size that mobilizes upwards enough to get into the pump, as long as your intake is designed to minimize velocity. Analyze the sand size that accumulates in the spring box, and have the screen sized for the 95th or 98th percentile sand size. I have a Edmund optic pocket comparator with a sand size reticle that I use for doing this, but before I got that I used a dial caliper and a microscope.
 

DonPowers

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Yeah, when I removed the three nuts that hold the motor on, the screen was plugged with sand. With just the motor and power to it, the motor will not turn. If you tap on it with a hammer it does spin until you turn the power off and back on it goes back to not moving.

The pump is a 3/4 Myers 3 wire 220V pump and the line is a 1 1/4 to the house. The plumber down the road who is local sells the Myers and the replacement is over $400, the Wayne pumps are a low $330.

Check these guys out, bought my last pump from them.

http://store.waterpumpsupply.com/index.html

Never had to deal with sand, good luck.
 

pcmeiners

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In the only town in Pennsylvania, Bloomsburg.
As to sand clogging, they sell perforated PVC well screens with different size mesh perforations, get the correct size, no sand issues. Sounds like you need a large diameter, fine mesh holes, you adapt the well screen down to your pipe size.
They sell multi stage pumps for long distance piping, basically multi pumps in series.

Well screens....
https://www.google.com/search?q=wel...&ei=-1T5VsGVOIi3eeiUm2A#imgrc=OJZBlDhMpbHl_M:
 
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