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Sharpening hand files with sandblaster

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Kracin

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1878: sharpen your files with a sandblaster.

I happened across this article from 1878, suggesting that one could easily sharpen a dull file using a sandblaster. Anybody want to try it and get back to us? I would be glad to refurbish my old files that were made in the USA, rather than source NOS files.

looks like a sound idea. worth a shot if i ever wear any of my files out.... too many files, not enough stuff to file!
 

nine4gmc

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I blasted a couple that were totally rusted beyond use that came in a box I picked up, they were then usable but idk if it actually sharpened them. I used black diamond 80 grit on them. They were junk so I guess it saved them but idk if I would try it on a usable file.
 

mikebaker1129

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Yes I have been doing this recently on files.
It does work,but then you have the rust factor,so I started parkerizing them afterward,I mainly do this to quality USA made files that I find at Pawns and fleas that are still good ,just rusty.
 

crab

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It would clean them up but I don't see how it could sharpen them. Actually I would think it would dull them. Just guessing, I've never tried it.
 

WhataTool

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I've done it. Instant rust though, agreed on parkerizing or blue-ing it at least.
 

nine4gmc

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Try air tools when filing parts using a metal lathe....not a good idea.

I use files all the time, especially after using a BFH on a job! :lol_hitti

Anyone have a good guide for parkerizing files?



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dr_clyde

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I love my air tools, but my files will always be in my toolbox. No other tool does what a file does with the same precision and control of a human brain running it.

Always useful in a machine shop and fabricating environment.


A sandblaster will clean the gullets out but you need an acid to actually remove the metal in a way that sharpens them.
 

Brad54

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I had some old rust-coated files and a bunch of other tools I picked up, and dunked them in a molasses bath for a week or so... molasses eats rust.

Worked like a charm, but what surprised the hell out of me was that the files were all sharp as hell after. They had some real teeth to them.

I figure what happens is that the file "teeth" get a layer of rust on them--the rust gets chemically dissolved away, leaving the sharper profiles that were under the removed rust. It MIGHT chemically mill the base metal too, milling all the angles to sharp points. I dunno, but they DID work well, they were tough, and they've held their edge.

I think blasting with sand would dull the sharp points/ridges more than it would make them sharp again.

Haven't had any problem with them rusting again in my tool box, either.

-Brad
 
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mikebaker1129

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Try air tools when filing parts using a metal lathe....not a good idea.

I use files all the time, especially after using a BFH on a job! :lol_hitti

Anyone have a good guide for parkerizing files?



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Zinc is the easiest to use,I will get the brand when I go back to work on Monday.
You mix the solution according to the directions with 1 gallon dis tiled water and heat it up to 180' in a stainless steel pan.add in you freshly blasted steel parts ,tools,files etc.
The files/tools will start fizzing, when any item stops fizzing take it out ,rinse it if and blow with air to dry. Then either paint or oil if going to leave as is .the parkerizing is also a good tooth for which paint to adhere to.
Raw it leaves a gray to dark gray finish which oil and wax are absorbed to prevent rust.
Zinc is cheapest and easiest to use ,Manganese phosphate needs to be aged some ,but other than that it is the same process.
I do it all the time to rusty tools picked up from flea markets and pawns. We gave an industrial blast cabinet that I make sure works properly.
I am lazy I heat mine up for 4 minutes in a beater microwave I picked from the trash.i heat it up in plastic cups and then add the solution to the stainless pan.
I first used the stainless pan on the stove ,but that had some issues with the wife,so I now do it at work .
 
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94EG8

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Apr 5, 2015
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You can sharpen files battery acid. Just don't let them sit too long or they'll turn smooth. A few hours to overnight will really bring them back though.
 
OP
P

pendragon1998

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I don't believe you want to oil a file. Peter Ross says even finger oil makes a file skate over the work and not cut it.
 

warweapon762

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+1 on the battery acid and molasses chem dip for reconditioning files. Its about time he only trick that works really well and they usually come out a bit more aggressive than they were before due to the oxidation layer being removed.
 

HanShotFirst

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I'm a gunsmith, files are my life. When a file gets dull, I just buy a new one. Nicholson are very good files, not great, but good. They seem to strike the balance between quality and price FOR ME. I'll bet I use files MUCH more than most here and my files tend to last for years. That's mostly because I know what I can and cannot file. The quickest way to ruin a file is to run it across something too hard. So keep garbage files for testing when you don't know the hardness of what you're about to file, then use a good file when you've confirmed the hardness of the steel is not too hard for your file.
 

HanShotFirst

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Hard for me to accept that the abrasive would create sharp peaks rather than round them off.
On a well trashed file I could see it creating a less trashed peak, rather than a sharp peak. Files are not all that expensive, just replace one when they get trashed.
 

amguttin

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I have had good luck sharpening good quality files by soaking them in white vinegar over night, old gunsmith trick.
 

va.grouseman

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Southern-Central VA.
Would a fine grit sand flapper do the same as sand blasting?

Amguttin ,---Don't the vinegar rust the file steel pretty bad?---If so, what do you do to neutralize the rust?
 

nine4gmc

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A sand flapper would flatten the teeth and make the file dull fast and vinegar removes rust, it removes any finish on the metal so the metal will rust if you don't oil it after neutralizing with lots of water. Rinse thoroughly.


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Fcvapor05

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This method- commonly called 'liquid honing'- is how files are usually sharpened. Nothing new about it.

With that said, I would say it is unlikely you will be able to replicate this process well at home. Manufacturers and sharpening companies use this process on an industrial scale, which means precise process controls and fixturing, which you won't be able to replicate.
 
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