Shearwall Needed? Or just good sheating?

[tomralph]

I am building a woodshop inside of my pole barn / workshop. Quick history...

The pole barn is 48’ x 36’ with laminated poles (3 - 2x8’s) set on 8’ for the sides and ~9’ on the ends. Poured a concrete floor last year at 5” thick, 5000 PSI, and rebar. No cracks in the concrete and it was sealed after curing.

Now to the current stuff... I am building a woodshop measuring 16’ x 20’. The walls for the woodshop are 2x4 @ 16” OC, double top plate, blocking @ 48” from the ceiling to provide a nailing point for the wall covering, and anchored to the concrete using 4” x 1/2” RedHeads every 32”. I will be hanging 5/8” drywall inside the woodshop.

I have selected/used 2x12 joists spanning the 16’ direction. The one end where I can not nail (next to a wall in the pole barn) the blocking is between joists. The other end a rim joist was added securing each joist to it. I also added blocking down the middle (@ 8’).

The top of the joists will be glued/screwed with 23/32” OSB T&G.

My plan is to have a lounge/game room/hang out on top of the woodshop, I sized the joists off 50 PSF live load and 10 PSF dead.

I plan to put 1/2” drywall on 2 of the walls on the outside of the woodshop, the other walls are butting up near the pole barn and make it impossible to sheet.

Question: Do I need more shear resistance?

If so... can I put 23/32 under the 1/2 drywall on the 2 (1 long and 1 short side) walls that are exposed and consider that enough?

Or do I need to sheet the inside of the shop in something like a 1/2 plywood (all 4 walls), then toss my 5/8” drywall on top of it?

Or do I need to add some sort of strapping to the 2 walls that only have a single layer of drywall to beef up their shear?

Keep in mind this will be internal to another building, so wind values shouldn’t play in to it. I live in CO so earthquakes are out as well .

 

[LXCam]

Considering you want to have regular business dynamic loads up top, I'd absolutely shear it. But I'd just do the two exposed exterior walls with ~1/2" nailed 4-6" OC on the edge and 6-8" OC in the field. This based upon several similar past projects. Between the two sides and the floor sheeting and the fact it isn't very wide should stop any twist. Btw, the reason I suggest the exterior wall (exterior meaning the two walls you can get to in the shop just in case that sounded wrong) is so you capture the rim joist in shear.

But I'm no engineer I just play one on TV. But there are a few guys here that are and should be listened too.

Also there's no reason to go with 5/8" rock since it's not like you're trying to achieve a fire rated assembly.

 

[larry_g]

Are we to assume that three corners of your new room are located against the inside wall of the building, or is this room only sharing one wall with the building?

I would think that if two walls of the new room share and are braced against the existing building walls then your good. This could also be said as the room is in a corner of the building.

If free standing with only one , or no shared wall then I would consider the shear strength and makes sure you have it in place.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[6768rogues]

For 2x4 walls, I screw a long 1x4 diagonally to the wall, trace where it crossing framing, and then remove it. Then I set my circular saw to 3/4 inch deep and cut at the marks and a few times in between them, then use a chisel to knock out the pieces. Then the 1x4 can go back in and be flush with the surface of the framing. If the walls are 2x6, I use a 2x4 as the brace.
Or you can use metal strapping, but it is only good in tension, not compression.
You might or might not need bracing. If in doubt, I put it in. It is easy and cheap insurance.