sheathing on interior

[River Runner]

Good day,

I started building my shop this previous summer. I completed the dirt work, footings and built up a 4' block fully grouted stem wall, back filled and am ready for framing. I paused because lumber had skyrocketed and figured Id wait out the winter and let prices come back down. Well, that's not happening like I had hoped, in fact its even higher for OSB than it was 6 weeks ago.Im out of state for some training this winter and would like to get back on it in the spring and move on with my life.

I spoke with a structural engineer on the airplane while traveling and mentioned to him that since I was already planning on using OSB or Plywood on the interior walls, would that work for my sheathing and shear strength? He seemed to think it wouldn't make a difference.

Furthermore, I am using 2" foam board on my stem wall and wanted to continue it up the exterior walls for a nice continuous barrier system. I know it seems unconventional but what do you guys think about 5/8" sheathing on the interior and foam board on the exterior?

I'd like to just be able to fasten metal siding vertically directly over the foam and into the studs. I'm planning on using 2x8's or 2x6's on 24" spacing for the walls. Anyone see issues fastening directly over the foam?

 

[rsanter]

Look into using SIP panels for your walls. They are clad in OSB and have the insulation in them.
Then top with trussses and skin the building with tin as you wanted

See what the price comparison for that would be

 

[u2slow]

I kicked around similar ideas with my contractor, since I was doing metal outside, and at least 1/2" ply inside.

The problem became the order things go up, and the cost outlay, and satisfying the building permit stages. Exterior finish (steel siding) had a higher priority than interior finishing, and shear needed to be addressed in multiple areas just to complete the framing. I wouldn't have the funds for insulating and rough-ins until much later. I did 1/2" ply exterior - walls and roof.

If it wasn't because I already had half the interior boarded (pre-covid) I'd probably skimp on plywood (one pass around the bottom) and use the thin metal liner panels higher up the walls. Do check you sources... in my case, one-side-good (sanded) ply is now cheaper than sheathing.

HTH.

EDIT: 2x6 or 2x8 studs let you use some thick batt insulation. If your building requires such large studs, you may need them closer that 24". Mine are at 16" or 12" spacing depending on wall height.

 

[toolchaser]

OSB on either side of the studs will help with strength. In a lot of places, corner bracing can be either OSB or let-in bracing.With material cost being what they are right now, why not let the OSB do double duty & function as your interior wall surface ( unless code says otherwise)

 

[Hank11]

You should look at Huber Zip R panels. Zip R is costly but it might be worth it.

The techniques used with them might fit your needs with less costly materials. But keep in mind that there is more than one kind of foam and more than one kind of OSB.

You might even think about using your foam with an outer layer of Zip sheathing (not the R version).

 

[River Runner]

Yeah, I've checked around on supplies and the Huber Zip R is pretty speedy, about $10 more a sheet.

I won't be having any inspection on the building, its an agricultural permit. My thought was to frame and then sheet the interior and run electric in conduit on walls.

I can do 2x6 but likes the idea of 2x8 to fully cover the block stem wall and provide better insulation.

 

[u2slow]

I can do 2x6 but likes the idea of 2x8 to fully cover the block stem wall and provide better insulation.

R22 is decent with the 2x6" stud. I have 8" stem too. I don't mind the ledge. Rolling goods hit the concrete before the wall. Going to run air and water along there.

 

[strutaeng]

It's not conventional to install sheathing on the interior, but you can do that. On conventional interior shearwalls like in multi-family construction that's basically what they do.

The only trick is perhaps at gables if you have them. In design you want roof deck attached your shearwalls. In that case I would run sheathing up to ridge of a gable.

If you you have a hip roof with no gables then I don't think this would apply.