Shed Build - Need Guidance

[Pluribus]

Beemer533 shows a method I've seen before; here's another:

Instead of the ruler, I'd use a 2x4 for marking the horizontal line (unless your ruler is 1-1/2" wide.)

 

[Kaoskido]

I talked to my nephew who does carpentry and he says I should use 2x8 for the rafters.

I am at a standstill until I can get the lumber for the roof and siding.

If I where to use 2x8's how wide can the spacing be if I am using 1/2" ply/OSB?

Also, for the subfascia boards are those all the same dimensions or would it be some other dimension for the finished fascia?

Trying to get my material list together so I can make more progress on this build.

 

[Beemer533]

Whether you use 2x8 or anything else for the rafters won't affect the type of substrate you use, the space between them does. With a low slope roof I would stick with 16" OC. If you do go 24" OC I wouldn't use anything less than 5/8" for the deck.

For the facia, it depends what you want to do aesthetically; for my build I used 3/8" ply for the soffit and 3/4" poplar for the facia. I actually regret not going with a pvc product for the facia though.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[Kaoskido]

I've not looked into the siding too much. what would be the minimum thickness for the siding panels?

 

[Kaoskido]

So I've made it back with my lumber for the roof.

I'm still perplexed as to why the need for a 2x8 vs. 2x4 or 2x6.

Can someone explain the reasoning why a normal gable is using 2x4 but with mine folks suggest a heavier board.

Is it because of the low slope only or something to do with the birds mouth cuts?

 

[elav]

Great progress! How close is it to the fence? Wondering how you are going to put up siding and paint it...

 

[Beemer533]

I've not looked into the siding too much. what would be the minimum thickness for the siding panels?

You'll be fine with 1/2". Thicker is fine, but I wouldn't go less than that.

Are you thinking about doing T111 or using OSB with a clabard or vinyl siding?

 

[Beemer533]

So I've made it back with my lumber for the roof.

I'm still perplexed as to why the need for a 2x8 vs. 2x4 or 2x6.

Can someone explain the reasoning why a normal gable is using 2x4 but with mine folks suggest a heavier board.

Is it because of the low slope only or something to do with the birds mouth cuts?

Think of your roof more like a deck the shallower the pitch gets. You won't have a live load like a deck would certainly, but you want to account for snow load.

Could you get away with 2x4? Probably, but the roof would be bouncy and prone to sagging.

 

[bczygan]

WOW,
I thought 2x8's were excessive for your span until I saw you were in the 60PSF snow load area. So 2x8's are required! They can be at 24"o.c.
I wouldn't use the standard 7/16" OSB for sheeting, like we do here. I would use 1/2" or 5/8" plywood.

 

[Kaoskido]

I ended up with the 14' 2x8 lumber and also 1/2" ply. bczygan your saying I can do 24 OC? I'd like to have the widest span if possible without causing issues. I've been told to go 16 OC.

I plan on trying to hang some today but the one thing I am wondering about is how deep my birdsmouth needs to be and also how do I determine the correct overhang about ... I.e. where do I measure from and how do I get the correct cuts on the tails.

 

[Kaoskido]

Are you thinking about doing T111 or using OSB with a clabard or vinyl siding?

I'm still undecided on the siding. I am about $1500 into it now. I would like to start limiting my costs but I don't think I'm going to avoid that.

What is the least expensive route but not too cheap, etc?

 

[Beemer533]

I'm still undecided on the siding. I am about $1500 into it now. I would like to start limiting my costs but I don't think I'm going to avoid that.

What is the least expensive route but not too cheap, etc?

Well, when I built my shed, I had originally looked at some pre-built Amish ones that were in the $2k range. I thought, no way am I paying that! I can do it way cheaper.... Well, I definitely built it better, but I think I came in at about $3k...

Regarding 16 vs 24 OC, with a 10' wide structure 24 OC only saves 3 rafters (5 vs 8). Not really a big difference in cost/labor for more strength.

As far as siding goes, something like t111 would probably be the fastest and one of the cheaper options..

I wanted clabard for mine originally to match the house, but it would have cost around $1300... I just went with t111...

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[bczygan]

I ended up with the 14' 2x8 lumber and also 1/2" ply. bczygan your saying I can do 24 OC? I'd like to have the widest span if possible without causing issues. I've been told to go 16 OC.

I plan on trying to hang some today but the one thing I am wondering about is how deep my birdsmouth needs to be and also how do I determine the correct overhang about ... I.e. where do I measure from and how do I get the correct cuts on the tails.

With the 1/2" I would definitely go 16"

 

[Pluribus]

I ended up with the 14' 2x8 lumber and also 1/2" ply. bczygan your saying I can do 24 OC? I'd like to have the widest span if possible without causing issues. I've been told to go 16 OC.

I plan on trying to hang some today but the one thing I am wondering about is how deep my birdsmouth needs to be and also how do I determine the correct overhang about ... I.e. where do I measure from and how do I get the correct cuts on the tails.

Beemer533 shows a method I've seen before; here's another:

Instead of the ruler, I'd use a 2x4 for marking the horizontal line (unless your ruler is 1-1/2" wide.)

Quoting myself, as the video posted previously answers your question. If you want to get even more detailed, you can figure at what height on your vertical birdsmouth line the horizontal part of the birdsmouth will perfectly match the width of your top plate, but that is completely unnecessary IMHO. Beemer533's pictures show the other method of tacking a rafter onto the end, then tracing your top plates onto it. Cut for that, and now you have a pattern rafter. *If doing a pattern rafter, make sure your distance is equal at both ends.

As to where your rafter tails end up, that's up to you. You can either go even overhangs front/back, or shift it one way or the other. On my shed roof, I put a larger overhang on the front/high side. To cut the rafter tails, snap a chalk line across the tops of the rafter tails to get a reference point, the plumb cut them or cut them off square with the roof. I plumb cut mine front and back, as I'm going to eventually put a gutter on the back, and that will keep me from having to use wedges. I also like plumb cuts for appearance.

For what it's worth, I used 2x8's on 16" centers for a 10' span, and I have a 25# snow load zone here.

 

[Kaoskido]

Well, here is where I stand on the shed.

I did my best attempt, perhaps should have went with 16" for the rafters but I went 24". It felt very solid when I was doing the shingling and I am not very light by any means.

I am going to attempt the front porch ..... I am not sure why I cannot get this down but how to determine the pitch. When you step up I would expect the height to the bottom of the fascia to be no more than 82 1/2".

I'm thinking that I'll use 2x6 on this roof and decking.

 

[Kaoskido]

Beemer533. I like your shed and the sliding door.

Can you tell me how this slider is built and what components are needed. I really like it and may want to apply that to my shed. however, How do you keep the snow out? My shed faces west and I can see with our blowing winds here in Minnesota that there would be blow by and my shed entry would fill with snow. Perhaps not... curious to see how yours is set up/weather proofed.

 

[Beemer533]

Looks good so far! For the front porch pitch I would do a mockup with a post and a single 2x6 to see what looks good and works for you.

Keep in mind if you go less than 4/12 pitch, you can't use shingles anymore. You will have to go with a rolled. flat roof material.

I will take some more detailed pictures of the door construction, but I did not put in any weather proofing.

My original plan was to put in a small roof over the door track and some type of gasketing, like brushes. After I installed the door and I had it for a bit I noticed that really nothing was coming inside, so I left it alone. That would probably been different if my door wasn't facing north though.

East or west would probably require some weather stripping or at least an overhang.

The door hardware is a 10' track with pre-welded brackets from the Tractor supply. The rollers are also from TS. If I remember correctly, the track and rollers were around $70 or so...

 

[Kaoskido]

Thanks for the info. I have a TS near me so I may check that out.

I am still on the fence about the porch..... It is an added expense and is really for looks in my opinion.

I'm getting to the point where I am ready to be done with this project.

I have another 101 to do, if you know what I mean.

 

[Beemer533]

I hear you! It never seems to end...

I will say, I find that it sometimes is better to just get it over with now...

Regarding the door hardware, here are the links:

Roller

Track

The parts are more than I remember, but I'm sure they have gone up since I bought mine....

 

[grissom]

Well, here is where I stand on the shed.

I did my best attempt, perhaps should have went with 16" for the rafters but I went 24". It felt very solid when I was doing the shingling and I am not very light by any means.

I am going to attempt the front porch ..... I am not sure why I cannot get this down but how to determine the pitch. When you step up I would expect the height to the bottom of the fascia to be no more than 82 1/2".

I'm thinking that I'll use 2x6 on this roof and decking.

How close is the shed to the fence? You may want to consider putting a gutter and downspouts as all the water will be directed to the fence line

 

[Methodical]

Explanation and example;

What is a setback?

Every zoning district includes rules about how
far buildings must be from the lot lines of your
property. This distance is called a setback.

Site Plan Example
http://pinalcountyaz.gov/BuildingSafety/Documents/Form/Site Plan Example.pdf

Also, if not already mentioned, you need to know if there's a building line. This maybe saying the same thing as above though.

Looking good. It feels good to build your own, your way.

 

[Kaoskido]

Technically it is 3 feet from the fence/lot line. However, my fence is already set back due to the easement utilities which forced me to set it back and not placed on the lot line. I live in a small community so unless the back neighbor says something I'm not too worried. My neighbor to the south has the same dimension shed and it's exactly on the lot line with no 3ft set back. So if the building inspector wants to hassle me I'll ask him to enforce everyone's shed which is not properly located per zoning code.

 

[Kaoskido]

Beemer533....

So today I picked up the TS hardware for the barn door.

I also found a 5ft by 8ft vintage door off of a barn at one our our local antique stores.

Plan on hanging it tomorrow.

Curious, any words of wisdom when hanging the barn rail/hanger/rollers, etc?

 

[justin1795]

make sure you don't have much of a ramp if you plan on parking a riding mower in it.

 

[Beemer533]

Beemer533....

So today I picked up the TS hardware for the barn door.

I also found a 5ft by 8ft vintage door off of a barn at one our our local antique stores.

Plan on hanging it tomorrow.

Curious, any words of wisdom when hanging the barn rail/hanger/rollers, etc?

Well, the first thing I messed up on mine was the installation height, originally I had a piece of uni strut on the bottom of the door to keep it from swinging out, but somewhere along the line my math skills failed and I had to adjust the rollers all the way in to make it fit.

However, after some rain, my ramp swelled a bit and was making contact with the strut making the door a pain to roll. Eventually I removed the strut and it works fine. The way I built the ramp keeps the door from swinging out anyway.. I did add a TS roller for when the door was slid all the way open, but it isn't totally necessary..

Have you thought about how you want to see secure the bottom of the door?

If you want, let me know and I can take closeups of anything you might want to see.

 

[Beemer533]

I'm looking forward to seeing the door you picked up, it sounds cool!

 

[Kaoskido]

So, here is the shed with the salvaged barn door.

It is hung temporarily as I need to exchange the 8ft track for a 10ft track tomorrow.

Also, I need to mount the track about 2-3" higher and shimmed out a bit to make room for the door trim I plan on placing.

Right now, I am torn on colors. My house is a darker blue/gray and I plan on painting the shed as such with white trim. However, the door is faded and I was thinking of rewashing it with a light spray of red barn paint but not sure how that will look. The alternative is to sand it down a bid and wash it with the watered down fence stain I have.

Beemer533 if you can show me how you secure at the bottom that would be great.

 

[Beemer533]

That door looks really nice!

To secure the bottom of the door I made my ramp with a cutout at the top just wide enough for the door to slide into; I was originally concerned about the door getting jammed up in it, but I have not had an issue in several years of use now.

Since I removed the strut I had on the bottom of the door, I could have skipped notching the 2x6 supports and just used the height of decking to keep the door in place. You can also see the TS roller I am using now.

Looking at the photo, it looks like it might be time to touch up some of the paint!


To space the track out, I just used blocks of the same material I used for the trim.. worked out well.

 

[Beemer533]

This might clarify what I mean with the door and ramp...

One thing I did was screw down a 2x2x1/8" aluminum angle at the threshold to keep the flooring from getting torn up; that has worked out well so far. I'll see if I can find a picture of it..

 

[Kaoskido]

Thanks for the ramp info. I have not yet decided if I am going to do a ramp or just a paver pad or something on that line. I don't have a rider so anything that needs to go in and out I can handle over a step.

Here is a pic of a barn light I added. Not sure how I'll light it up since the shed has no electricity. Might need to jerry rig a solar light or something.

So, my challenge for the weekend is the soffit. Here is a pic to show you and I need to understand what the best plan and least expensive would most likely be. Plywood. Aluminum ?

Might I add.... the least P. I. T. A. route to finish out the soffit.

 

[pattenp]

Use 1/4" plywood under soffits.

 

[Beemer533]

Yeah, no need for much more than that... I did use 3/8" plywood, mostly because I had some laying around..

As far as the ramp goes, I'm not getting a riding mower either, but the ramp makes it way easier to move stuff around on a dolly, or wheelbarrow, etc.. I'd do the ramp regardless...

Nice lamp btw! Shouldn't be too difficult to wire up a small panel and battery... Just throw in a LED bulb.

 

[Kaoskido]

Here it is with soffit boxed in and light working.

Used 1/4" ply for soffit and aluminum fascia

 

[Beemer533]

Looks good! Did you end up running electrical to the shed?

 

[Kaoskido]

I had just ran an extension but will be running 110v to it.

I got it all stripped down today and will begin the daunting task of painting and staining tomorrow depending on the weather.

I still need to do a stoop or ramp but have not arrived at which route I want to take yet.

 

[Kaoskido]

Here is the final minus the ramp or stoop.

Still need to get that done as well as run my permanent line for electricity.

I got an old horse shoe from my wife's grandfather and used it as a door pull. I'm trying to get a few other things from his old barn that is being torn down.

 

[Kaoskido]

Now I just have to build shelves in the darn thing.... I'm afraid I may not have enough room..

 

[amberdawn]

I'm curious to know how much the final project cost you (ballpark). We are just starting to venture down this same path as you (almost exactly the same plan and dimensions), however not having priced out our materials yet I'm a little worried about getting 1/2 way into it and finding out we could have purchased a premade one for cheaper. ? ? ?

 

[Kaoskido]

I'm curious to know how much the final project cost you (ballpark). We are just starting to venture down this same path as you (almost exactly the same plan and dimensions), however not having priced out our materials yet I'm a little worried about getting 1/2 way into it and finding out we could have purchased a premade one for cheaper. ? ? ?

Amberdawn.... I would ball park it at $3k

I spent about $2500 at my local building retailer (but I also did all of the rebates so I did get some $$ back) and about another $500 elsewhere.... I.e. Barn door, barn door track and hardware, window hardware, electrical, paint, etc.

I didn't penny pinch but I didn't go overboard either.

I'll tell you this if I had the ability to get a pre-made for lesser and moved onto my property with similar features/quality I would have bought one vs. building.

 

[My Old Tools]

Keep it simple. 92.5" studs for the back wall plus plate and cap. 10' studs for the front wall plus plate and cap. You'll have to buy 10's for the end walls and cut to fit.