Dave Nelson
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2011
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- 181
Looking at building a 10x10 or 10x12 shed wanted to see if there is any advantage to having the double doors on the gable end or the eave side, I can face the shed either way.
Shed Door Location Preference
- Thread starter Dave Nelson
- Start date
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
A lot depends on roof type. Some sheds with gambrel roofs are limited to the gable ends if the roof is low on the eave sides. My 8" x 12" has the doors centered on the front eave side, but it's a saltbox style roof and wouldn't have been effective on the gable end, it would have interfered with storage along the inside of the eave sides. For a bigger size, putting the doors on the gable side gives more interior wall storage. For a square shed, it's obviously pretty much is 50/50.
Tommy
Tommy
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MushCreek
Well-known member
I built my 8X12 with the door on the 12' wall, but when I got a zero-turn, I couldn't get it in there without blocking 2/3's of the space. I moved it to the end.
BetterDays
Well-known member
10x10
if you place the door under the gable, the shed is normal height
If you place the door under the eave, the sidewalls and overall shed will be higher.
I now have a 12x16 with 7' doors centered on the 16' wall. I wish it was a bit taller now for storage, but also realize I probably need to breakdown and purge some things too...
if you place the door under the gable, the shed is normal height
If you place the door under the eave, the sidewalls and overall shed will be higher.
I now have a 12x16 with 7' doors centered on the 16' wall. I wish it was a bit taller now for storage, but also realize I probably need to breakdown and purge some things too...
HenryAZ
MEMBER EMERITUS
I have a 10' x 12' with a single 3' door on the end. My little 30" riding mower just fits through the door. Door on the end opens up both long walls for storage.
readhead
Well-known member
On the eave side you will be dealing with rain or snow dripping or accumulation. After eight years of selling sheds evidence suggests that the door centered on the side wall will give you the most options.
A lot depends on how organized you are. With the side door you will tend to walk in and go left or right to store things and leave the center clear. That is important especially if the shed has lofts on one or both ends. With an end door most will walk to the opposite end and start putting things down until they reach the door.
Plan how you will store things first. Shelving and hanging storage solutions are available at the big box store. If you are going to park equipment make sure you can still access the shelves. For instance, don’t put shelves down both sides and then park the mower between them and cut off access to the shelves. Part of planning the storage means not placing doors in the center of a wall. Most people think that doors and windows should be centered and symmetrical to be “ proper “ but that may compromise usable space.
Quite often I will place transom windows in the door to provide light but not take up any wall space. Placing windows with plenty of room under them works well for shelving and work benches. Sometimes two doors make more sense. One for general access and one where you can drive the lawn tractor in and park.
A lot depends on how organized you are. With the side door you will tend to walk in and go left or right to store things and leave the center clear. That is important especially if the shed has lofts on one or both ends. With an end door most will walk to the opposite end and start putting things down until they reach the door.
Plan how you will store things first. Shelving and hanging storage solutions are available at the big box store. If you are going to park equipment make sure you can still access the shelves. For instance, don’t put shelves down both sides and then park the mower between them and cut off access to the shelves. Part of planning the storage means not placing doors in the center of a wall. Most people think that doors and windows should be centered and symmetrical to be “ proper “ but that may compromise usable space.
Quite often I will place transom windows in the door to provide light but not take up any wall space. Placing windows with plenty of room under them works well for shelving and work benches. Sometimes two doors make more sense. One for general access and one where you can drive the lawn tractor in and park.
CJ7VFR
Well-known member
Here is my 10'x16' shed. I put the double door on the gable end, and a single "people" door on the side.
I wanted the double door on the gable end so that I could park my riding mower just inside of the doors. This way gave me the most room inside the shed and still be able to get other items in and out versus putting the double door on the side. I can use the people door to get all of the yard and garden items out and not have to move the mower or try to get around it.
As readhead noted, if I had put the double door on the side, where the people door is, I would have had to leave an area in the center of the shed clear in order to be able to get things in and out. I did not want to do that as it would have ate up valuable storage space. And it was the need for that storage space that prompted the need for the shed in the first place.
I have all my garden and yard tools hanging on the walls, and I also have a loft for larger items, like holiday decorations and stuff like that. I also use straps hanging from the ceiling to store items that are odd shaped, or long. This keeps everything off the floor except for the mowers, my snow blower, a wheel barrow, the generator and my yard cart.
Here is my shed. As a side note, I also had it built with 6 inch higher walls so that both the double door and the people door are a full 80 inches tall, just like doors in a house. I wanted that because I am 6 feet tall and I didn't want to have to constantly duck down going in and out like I had to do with an old shed I had that only had 72 inch high doors.
Jim
I wanted the double door on the gable end so that I could park my riding mower just inside of the doors. This way gave me the most room inside the shed and still be able to get other items in and out versus putting the double door on the side. I can use the people door to get all of the yard and garden items out and not have to move the mower or try to get around it.
As readhead noted, if I had put the double door on the side, where the people door is, I would have had to leave an area in the center of the shed clear in order to be able to get things in and out. I did not want to do that as it would have ate up valuable storage space. And it was the need for that storage space that prompted the need for the shed in the first place.
I have all my garden and yard tools hanging on the walls, and I also have a loft for larger items, like holiday decorations and stuff like that. I also use straps hanging from the ceiling to store items that are odd shaped, or long. This keeps everything off the floor except for the mowers, my snow blower, a wheel barrow, the generator and my yard cart.
Here is my shed. As a side note, I also had it built with 6 inch higher walls so that both the double door and the people door are a full 80 inches tall, just like doors in a house. I wanted that because I am 6 feet tall and I didn't want to have to constantly duck down going in and out like I had to do with an old shed I had that only had 72 inch high doors.
Jim
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readhead
Well-known member
Good looking shed Jim and a good example of good planning. End doors for the mower leaving good access to the rest of the shed from the side door. Extra overhang on the eave side to move the drip line away from the door and a shingle roof to keep the snow on the roof instead of packed in front of the door.
sps4runner
Active member
10 x 12 here. If you're asking for "how it looks" one vs. the other, I can't answer that. I put mine on the 12' (eave) side. Roughly 50" wide double. It allows me to drive my midsize rider straight in to the back wall & have plenty of room to get around it. I have 16" x 36" shelving units on each side of the door & I still have enough room to easily maneuver a push mower to the left of the parked rider.
A consideration may be if you are going to have gutters & if not, do you mind rain run-off from the roof falling over your entrance (onto ramp or maybe making muddy area in front of door.
Pictures available if needed.
Also for me I built extra tall for loft space. Ceiling is open to roof in center at doors with 4' x 10' loft storage on each side of that. No windows. Built a 3' wall extending from the back toward the front right alongside the rider. This gave me an extra 3' of "interior" wall space for a tool crib in that right rear corner.
A consideration may be if you are going to have gutters & if not, do you mind rain run-off from the roof falling over your entrance (onto ramp or maybe making muddy area in front of door.
Pictures available if needed.
Also for me I built extra tall for loft space. Ceiling is open to roof in center at doors with 4' x 10' loft storage on each side of that. No windows. Built a 3' wall extending from the back toward the front right alongside the rider. This gave me an extra 3' of "interior" wall space for a tool crib in that right rear corner.
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CJ7VFR
Well-known member
Yeah, I forgot that I had added in the over hangs for that reason. I have to give the thanks for that to my dad. He suggested that I do that to also help keep the water from getting into the tops of the doors.
I have to say it has worked out well for that.
Jim
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captain14
Well-known member
As Jim suggest we above, make sure you build overhangs over each door to protect them from the weather. If you elevate it plan on the ramp early.
If you pour a pad, plan on the rain splashing back on the wood causing damage. I built my shed on deck piers to keep the walls dry. No water damage after 28 years. My fathers shed that came with the house has damage sidewalls due to splash back. The shed he built later is elevated and the sidewalls are still good.
Link to the concrete piers
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-7-i...5-in-x-10-375-in-Concrete-Deck-Block/50113084
If you pour a pad, plan on the rain splashing back on the wood causing damage. I built my shed on deck piers to keep the walls dry. No water damage after 28 years. My fathers shed that came with the house has damage sidewalls due to splash back. The shed he built later is elevated and the sidewalls are still good.
Link to the concrete piers
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-7-i...5-in-x-10-375-in-Concrete-Deck-Block/50113084
BetterDays
Well-known member
Jim_No_Garage
Well-known member
I have a 10 x 12 with a Gambrel roof. The doors are on the long side under the eaves of the roof.
I am considering moving the doors to the gable end because the lawn tractor blocks the center of the shed when parked in there.
Mine is also rotting due to splash back in the rear. This summer it's due for some serious attention - roof and paint along with repairs to the rot. I might need to price a new shed and start over . . .
Jim
I am considering moving the doors to the gable end because the lawn tractor blocks the center of the shed when parked in there.
Mine is also rotting due to splash back in the rear. This summer it's due for some serious attention - roof and paint along with repairs to the rot. I might need to price a new shed and start over . . .
Jim
driftpin
Well-known member
I have a steel-frame, Hardi-Board, housewrapped, 10' X 20' which was the largest I could have because of zoning, I wasn't gonna spend $$ on asking for a variance, though I really could've used the extra space. Gable end roll-up OH door with engineered shear walls around the opening, exterior door impact-rated, on the eaves side, and windows on diagonally-opposite eaves sides, to allow cross-flow ventilation. Actually the whole shed/garage is rated for HVHZ wind-speeds, to 180 mph. It's on a slab I had poured for it. Florida has very-strict building codes, especially in HVHZ zones. The roof is metal.
It's full, I use Gladiator shelving and upper-wall shelves for storage, much of the storage is roll-around wire racks (and Rough-Tote tubs, labelled as-to contents) or furniture dollies, and I also use BORA heavy equipment dollies for floor-standing tools, to allow best utility.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=368713&highlight=HVHZ
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=371026&highlight=HVHZ
It has a 100 amp 120/240 service, w/multiple outlets inside, and a 120V outside on the gable end. I have LED lighting inside and motion-detector LED lighting outside. The storage is tight because I have a lot of stuff, but it's more-for storage than working out-of it.
It's full, I use Gladiator shelving and upper-wall shelves for storage, much of the storage is roll-around wire racks (and Rough-Tote tubs, labelled as-to contents) or furniture dollies, and I also use BORA heavy equipment dollies for floor-standing tools, to allow best utility.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=368713&highlight=HVHZ
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=371026&highlight=HVHZ
It has a 100 amp 120/240 service, w/multiple outlets inside, and a 120V outside on the gable end. I have LED lighting inside and motion-detector LED lighting outside. The storage is tight because I have a lot of stuff, but it's more-for storage than working out-of it.
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Bessy
Well-known member
Dad and I built a 12x14 with the door on the 14' side, centered. It was really the only way it would fit our lot in that space without looking super awkward. As far as the door placement goes, we have double doors that I believe are 6' wide 7' high. You always have to move something to get something else unfortunately (I'm more nimble and can climb over stuff my 60 year old dad can't). That's more of a stuff problem than a design flaw, if you could park the atv back far enough and don't have the blade installed you could get most things out without any issue, but with overflowing shelves at the back and to one side, it makes the ATV pretty tight.
Another shed at my grandmothers is approx 10x10 I think (never measured) with the door on the gable end offset to one side (window on the other). It's a pretty good design in that it allows you to park the lawnmower back far enough to get around the front of it without much issue, and still leave room to get to shelves and the bench (when it's not filled with stuff for the winter). the gambrel roof does come down the sides so the top chord is only about 7' off the floor, so it's a bit tight.
It will totally depend on what you want to use the space for, and how big of a pack rat you are. Call it a modified Parkinson's Law; "The stuff you have will expand until it fills the space" so if you want a shed that is functional, be smart about the stuff you keep (I need to take my own advice here).
Another shed at my grandmothers is approx 10x10 I think (never measured) with the door on the gable end offset to one side (window on the other). It's a pretty good design in that it allows you to park the lawnmower back far enough to get around the front of it without much issue, and still leave room to get to shelves and the bench (when it's not filled with stuff for the winter). the gambrel roof does come down the sides so the top chord is only about 7' off the floor, so it's a bit tight.
It will totally depend on what you want to use the space for, and how big of a pack rat you are. Call it a modified Parkinson's Law; "The stuff you have will expand until it fills the space" so if you want a shed that is functional, be smart about the stuff you keep (I need to take my own advice here).