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Shed Lighting

seansy59

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Aug 14, 2012
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4
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Earth, USA, NJ
I have a 10x15 shed, 9ft peak hipped roof that is used for storage a small projects. Anything from cleaning something, repairing a bike, or my seasonal projects, and hanging out in it. I currently have a T8 shop light in it, and it does okay, but is still darkish to my eyes at night.

I run off an extension cord, so I am limited to 1 15 amp circuit for the entire shed. What do you recommend for lighting?

I will upload some pics in a while........
 
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bczygan

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Nov 4, 2009
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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
I would put a single or 2 tube fluorescent at the peak and a couple 4 tube fluorescents below the ceiling joists. That would be for light in the attic space and general illumination below. I would install a fluorescent light above the workbench and have a plug in work light available and provide an outlet for that. I would switch them all separately or plug them into a plug in strip so I could plug them in as needed. Personally I would hard wire them to a small panel with a single 15A breaker, and connect the extension cord to that.
 
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seansy59

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Aug 14, 2012
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Earth, USA, NJ
Thanks! That's what I was thinking too. I'll probably leave the light that is on the ceiling right now, and add 2-3 more on the sides. I have the shed wired via an inlet, where the cord plugs into, then it goes to lotsa outlets, and a bank of switches that I can add to. This allows me to power the shed with the house service or a generator. I will add some more switched outlets on the ceiling for the lights via 14/3 so I can control them separately.
http://img17.imageshack.us/i/imagezlby.jpg/
http://img37.imageshack.us/i/imagezkxd.jpg/
 

bczygan

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Nov 4, 2009
Messages
22,002
Location
DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
Thanks! That's what I was thinking too. I'll probably leave the light that is on the ceiling right now, and add 2-3 more on the sides. I have the shed wired via an inlet, where the cord plugs into, then it goes to lotsa outlets, and a bank of switches that I can add to. This allows me to power the shed with the house service or a generator. I will add some more switched outlets on the ceiling for the lights via 14/3 so I can control them separately.
http://img17.imageshack.us/i/imagezlby.jpg/
http://img37.imageshack.us/i/imagezkxd.jpg/

Of course the reason to switch lights separately is so you can control the amount of watts you are using from the circuit for lighting, to leave more wattage for other uses for power. A breaker protects the wiring from overload and you can also limit the load by hand by only switching on lights where you need them. If you need more power or light than the circuit provides it is time to add additional circuits from the main building with separate feeds or a bigger feed to a sub panel.
 
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seansy59

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Aug 14, 2012
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Location
Earth, USA, NJ
Thanks! Thankfully my continuous loads never went above 850 watts about running a TV, stereo, computer, LED/neon decorations, lighting, and 4 box fans. The occasional drill (usually rechargeable, sometime plug in), or quick run of the shop vac peaks at 1700w, but is only for a few minutes. I have a small 2amp stick vacuum I use for regular cleaning.

Adding another 150w of lighting won't hurt. I'll add another 1-2 switches for lights. I run off a 15a circuit, with a 14 gauge 75ft extension cord, with 14/2 wiring in the shed fed from the inlet. I wish I could add a permanent feed underground, but with a patio, garden, and many tree roots, it is near impossible.
When I have a party, which has a fog machine, and PA system, I run a second 15a feed to a surge protector for extra juice.

Our house was built in the worst way, with the main panel dry walled around, and no access at all. Crawlspace is too low to crawl under where the panel is, and the attic has no access from above the panel. Not that it matters, since the 200a panel is as full as can be. Wired strangely too. Shut off one breaker, and the power to the bathroom, kitchen fridge, half bedroom, hallway, and 2 floodlights go out. Then we have one breaker that controls just one hallway light. We don't even have an outdoor outlet. The shed plugs into through the kitchen window and the front yard Christmas lights plug into the garage. Yeah, I know, time to call an electrician. I have twice. They said it's occasionally normal for a house in the 70's to be wired like this, and he couldn't do anything without a whole or most rewire, and ripping down the walls. We're the original owners, but boy, the electrician who wired this house should have been a plumber instead. Thankfully the wiring is deemed 100% safe, correctly wired, and never had a problem, so that's all that matters. It fits our needs, and the shed runs fine off a cord for what I have.
 

eljefino

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Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Messages
336
First thing I'd do is paint your walls white. What are you using for roofing? If it's galvanized ripply metal you can get that greenish plastic skylight stuff.

IDK if or when your town approves the newest NEC but you can bury a single underground rated romex a mere 12 inches down if it's supplied from a GFCI. It would be a circituitous route around your patio but it would be cool to have a permanent solution. You can do that in sod with a tamper if you bang down and pry sideways, "unzipping" the earth. What's the house like, on a slab, foundation, do you have floor joists in the crawl space with wire? Maybe you could tap into that underutilized hall light circuit for example.
 
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seansy59

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Aug 14, 2012
Messages
4
Location
Earth, USA, NJ
Well! Here is the finished product! I may take down the center light, and add 2 separate shoplights like I have on the sides, this way each switch controls 2 of the 4 fixtures.

Total power consumption is 180watts!

Before (with the one shop light at the peak on):
img1696un.jpg


Lights:
img1701vz.jpg


After
img1700dt.jpg
 
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