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Shed settling and doors binding

thepinktaco

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Apr 3, 2012
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6
Trying to figure out the settling in my 12x24 shed. Its sitting on a foot of gravel. 2 winters ago we had some bad frost heaves and the shed settled. You can see in the picture the RH main door drags hard on the lower inside edge and the LH door just scrapes at the top. Im thinking the outside corner of the shed sank causing the door frame to sort of twist. I adjusted the doors and it worked for a bit but now its scraping again so I want to fix it before winter. Main problem Im running into with lifting that corner is thats where the power runs into the shed. Id have to cut the pipe and splice in a longer piece.

It may just be the heat getting to me but I keep staring at it and cant come up with a plan. Any incite would help.

 
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Kevin54

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It looks like the electric comes in on the right hand side, but with the way the shed is racked, it looks like you need to lift the left hand side to bring the doors back in alignment.

How did you adjust the doors before....by taking them off and putting them back on in alignment?
 

Kevin54

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Also, when you put your stone down, did you compact it with a plate tamper? I've moved my 12x16 shed three times, and each time it was put down on a minimum of 1' of stone. The last time, I moved it, I probably had close to 2' of stone, compacted with a plate compactor. I have never had my shed rack on me. I do have a pretty sturdy floor system in mine though. Mine is made out of 4x4's set @16" on center, then the flooring is 3/4" treated 4" tongue and groove boards, screwed down at roughly 9" spacing. It is built sturdy starting at the base, so that may have something to do with it not racking also. But I always compact my stone with a plate compactor, using #58 crushed limestone with extra stone dust (about 3/4" in size). I then level it, wet it, then compact it, periodically checking it with a 6' level. The extra stone dust will pack it about like concrete.

Just curious as to how your shed is built and how your stone is put down.

Also....is this a homemade shed, or is this possibly a Lowes shed? The reason I ask is that it looks a lot like the shed I built for my mom that she bought at Lowes. If it is, they are not very sturdy to begin with and would be best set on a concrete slab.
 
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readhead

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Durango, Co.
The right side needs to come up. This would be the perfect opportunity to install the expansion fitting in the conduit that you forgot the first time.

The gravel should be crushed and as Kevin said, compacted.
 

Kevin54

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The right side needs to come up. This would be the perfect opportunity to install the expansion fitting in the conduit that you forgot the first time.

The gravel should be crushed and as Kevin said, compacted.

Correct me if I'm wrong, and I may very well be, but if the right side comes up, won't that let the door pivot down on the top? I don't think it will raise the complete door, but it might. :dunno: The reason I said raise the left side is that it would pivot the left door down. Like I said, I could be completely wrong :headscrat
 

readhead

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You're completely wrong lol. The building will move straight up not an arc. I'm at the shop today selling sheds. We sell, deliver and level sheds every day but Sunday.
 
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BDT/NWMN

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Erskine, Mn
Cut some wedges from a 2X4, and tap them under the low side till it levels out.

Just picture a larger version of a door or window shim
 
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D45

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I am on 4" on crushed limestone, mine hasn't moved in 2 years

Not compacted either, just hosed down with water and let to settle for a week before building on it
 

BillK

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Main problem Im running into with lifting that corner is thats where the power runs into the shed. Id have to cut the pipe and splice in a longer piece.

Taco,
If that is what you are mainly worried about I don't think you will have an issue. If it has sunk down it probably pushed the conduit down with it. When you lift it back to where it belongs it will pull the conduit back up with it.
 

larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
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oregon
I look at that and see what looks like a racked opening. Take a big square and check both jams to header square. You could also check the diagonals across the opening to check for square. Check both jambs to see if they are still plumb. Then with the results of your measurements go about fixing what is out of square or plumb. If the studs are open on the inside of the building check a few of them for plumb and if not plumb then as said above use a turnbuckle to pull things plumb. Also check that your doors are still square. Use a level on the top or bottom plate of the walls to check if a corner is dropping. Any or all of the above could be a cause of your problem.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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thepinktaco

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Apr 3, 2012
Messages
6
When the crushed stone was put down it was sprayed and hand compacted. Power was run out there 2 years after putting the shed in. So I'm thinking when the trench was dug that's when that corner settled.
The shed was bought from a local shed company.
To adjust the door the last time I loosened the hindges and pushed it over and tightened.
I will have to measure everything tomorrow, couldn't think straight yesterday after working all day in the yard.

I will have to grab an expansion joint to splice in as well. Thanks for the advise. That's why I browse this site all the time.
 
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