Shed Usability--10x10 or 8x12 ?

[paredown]

Next project--get the garden/outdoor tools and equipment consolidated into a permanent structure and see if one temporary tent can be emptied.

Our local code lets us only do a 10x10 without permits; I have staked out an 8x12. Shed design will be a shed roof style to match the look of the house (modern)--inspired by this one, although not a poured slab and not as finished:
https://www.familyhandyman.com/sheds/how-to-build-a-game-day-shed

So then I started thinking what would give the best combination of storage space and usability? (Doing a 10x10 would require doing a little more site prep to level etc.)

Use: No riding mower, would like to store two gas mowers, garden cart, shelves for chainsaws, gas cans and other small stuff. Garden hoses, planting supplies, firewood splitting supplies and the usual assortment of picks, shovels rakes etc. Leaf shredder, leaf blower and fertilizer spreader, and some space left for storing garden furniture in the off season. If 8x12, 4' door would be on the long side.

What do the garage gurus have to say?

 

[markzrt1]

Do you have the room to go bigger? 10x10 is so small.

 

[The Cobbler]

my shed is 9x14 on purpose. better use of floor space for me than a square building

 

[2ltime]

If you currently have the furniture and the mowers, I would measure them and then sketch out the floor plan and where things would go on a regular white paper, to scale as best as easy. If you are planning on shelves, then do one base floor plan and one for each shelf height. If you sketch your outline, remember to add some inward thickness for the walls. Then I would make cutouts to the same scale (and label them!) of your stuff. This will give you a good idea in 2d of what you want/need. Remember, things on wheels, such-as mowers, are easier to move. Therefore you will want it close to the door as it's less hassle to pull out then stationary things, like tables. Things like tables and chairs you can store on their sides easily, so you may want that dimension too. And when you have a 2d layout you like, check your heights needed. If it will all work, great. If you need taller but cannot do so, change the layout.

 

[Kaizen]

I did 10x12 as my town taxes on everything now. Build it with full 8 foot 2x4s and put shelving in the peak space as well.


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[CJ7VFR]

If you are limited to approximately 100 square feet, then either size shed will work.

One of the things to consider, besides floor space, is wall space. Do you want windows in the shed for light? If so, any window will limit the wall space, and take away from you being able to hang things on the wall, or to put up shelves.

Also, determine (as it appears you have) how you want the items in your shed to be arranged so that you can easily pull each thing out without having to remove other items first just to get to the one you want.

One of the best things you can do is measure the items you want to put in the shed, especially the ones that will take up floor space, and figure out the basic square footage each thing takes up.

Then draw the floor plan of both size sheds, each on a piece of paper (10 x 10 and 8 x 12), and then inside each floor plan draw in the square footage of each item that goes on the floor. If you can, you could draw the items approximate square footage to scale, cut each item out, and then place them inside the floor plans. Kind of like making puzzle pieces.

This would give you the ability to move the items around inside each floor plan, and see which shed size works best for you. It will also help determine what wall the door will go on, and what size door you would need.

Jim

 

[meboatermike]

I agree with Markzrt1, if you are allowed to go bigger then pull a permit and go bigger. I have 2 different sized sheds both as big or bigger than your planned plus a much larger fabric/tarp covered garage and they are chock a block full. Unless you can control your stuff and constantly work on downsizing you will need bigger. They contain no vehicles only a boat that I need to get rid of in the fabric garage.

 

[markzrt1]

I built my 20'x20' ten years ago and I'm so glad i didn't go smaller. My 9' wide garage door is on the left side of the front wall and the stuff that isn't used as often is on the right side so it is out of the way.

 

[mmb617]

I'd go with the 8x12 given your restrictions, with 8 ft being the depth and 12 ft wide. I feel 8 ft is deep enough for just about any item you might to store and I'd rather have the extra width so stuff doesn't get buried in the back as much.

But if you intend to have most of your stuff on shelves then the other orientation might be better, with the shelves down the long sides.

A lot depends on what you want to store there and how it best fits without being in the way every time you want to get something else out.

 

[bad_idea]

I built a 8x16 with the door in the middle of one of the 16' walls. It has been great for storage. Wouldn't change a thing. The 8x12 will be a better use of material too, I think. You can sketch it out and figure up material usage to verify.

 

[ItsNemo]

8x12' from a materials perspective will be less waste as well. Most products come in multiples of 4', plywood is 4x8', siding is usually 12', etc.

 

[Bretny]

I find that the door is better on the short end of sheds. Things not used much can go way in the back. This way you have a single walking isle not two in each direction with an open area infront of the door.

Eather way you cut it build shelving up. Keeping things on the floor will make an alreaty small space very very small a cluttered real quick.

 

[paredown]

Thanks all--I will take a shot at re-inventorying what needs to go in, and what layout will work best but I'm still thinking that the rectangle shape will work best. (I have resisted the extra work that it takes to think the layout through before starting, but having you guys remind me is almost as good as working with my older brother who would be nagging at me to do this!)

As far as windows, I have a set of small fixed pane vinyls that I salvaged out of a house we demo'd a few years ago(I think I even snagged all the trim), so the plan will be a set of those as clerestory windows on the long high wall above the door (I need to sit down and actually draw up plans to confirm this will work). Door plan--I was thinking a 4' barn style rolling to the back. I also have some salvage shingles (someone tossed them into a dumpster at one of our jobs a few years ago, so I dragged those home.)

I've also been considering adding a bumpout on the long back wall--technically it keeps you within the 100 sf footprint, but it might work well to add room for more storage.

If I go bigger, I have a couple of concerns about permitting--one is that I will actually have to figure out where the property line is and calculate setbacks (not a real big deal, but the adjacent lot is semi-wild and it is hard only because the sight lines are obscured).

The real argument against going bigger though, is if I can put everything away, how will I convince my lovely wife that I still need to build a garage?

 

[gemniii]

I had a similar problem - 150 sq ft permit limit
I went 15x10 and put on a gambrel roof and have plenty of overhead storage.
In this day of massive amounts of cardboard boxes I found it helpful to store my empty boxes for electronic equipment (in case of returns) and other "light" stuff, such a bicycles.

 

[LOW1]

Because of the Golden Ratio most people would feel that the 8 x 12 looks better than the 10 x 10.

 

[ForceFed70]

I'm going to assume you don't have any specialized storage requirements and don't plan to store anything abnormally large. In which case, I'd go 8x12 with the door in the middle of the long wall.

 

[DFB]

I also was limited to 100sq. ft and built myself and 8' x 12" but with a gable roof. Of course a shed style would be of a more simple design

I like my layout, a door and 3 ft sliding window are both on the long "front" side. A single 40+ inch door is all the way to one corner (left side) big enough for most mowers if necessary. and window centered in the remaining wall which provides plenty of light and air venting inside during the daytime.

Door opens out as you enter and along the left "gable end" and on the "back" 12 ft wall I nailed a continuous 2x4 up high across the studs and hang most long handle garden tools off that. I staggered blocked 3 of the walls, give me places to set stuff

But I straight blocked between the studs halfway up on the "left side" gable end wall and the faced that off with a pine 1x4 so there are tidy storage compartments in each stud bay for small loose things, carriage bolts fence clips etc,. Comes in very handy. Axes and sledges and mauls, can fit in the lower portion of each stud cavity below the blocking.

Put a small 4ft workbench with pegboard back against the right side gable end wall where it gets window light and 5 shelf storage rack to one side of that.

A usable space is also left under the window and I utilized overhead storage by putting plywood on top of 2 x4 attached front to back across the top plates. actually the lower chord of trusses I designed and built for the roof (there is no ridgeboard)



For a long time I stored a troy built rototiller, a Bolens brush chipper and a small motorcycle in there out of the weather along with all the garden stuff fencing fertilizers etc.

 

[Aaron_W]

I've been planning along the same lines. I'm allowed up to 120sf without a permit, but some have pointed out many localities base the sf of an outbuilding on the roof area so a 10x12 with an overhang may require a permit.

I think I'm going with an 8x12 due to the math, as several have pointed out lumber likes the number 4. Also due to space available I think 8x12 will be a better fit to the yard.

If you were planning to add power you might check your local requirements, here adding power requires a permit regardless of size. I'm just going to mount a couple of battery powered LED lights on the wall.

Something like these

4 AA 6 LED Push light

 

[CJM8515]

12x12 and pay for the permit. or 10x12. Its worth the extra space.

 

[gemniii]

<snip>

I think I'm going with an 8x12 due to the math, as several have pointed out lumber likes the number 4. Also due to space available I think 8x12 will be a better fit to the yard.

<snip>

Lumber doesn't care about math. And it's relatively easy to do another 2' and get 20% more space.

I was "cramped" with the 150 sq ft shed for 4 decades, what a relief when we bought the place we are retiring to, with 5,500 sq ft of workshops.

 

[Aaron_W]

Lumber doesn't care about math. And it's relatively easy to do another 2' and get 20% more space.

I was "cramped" with the 150 sq ft shed for 4 decades, what a relief when we bought the place we are retiring to, with 5,500 sq ft of workshops.

It is being done to free up a 6x8 foot area in the basement, so I'll already be doubling my current storage space. In addition to 8 feet being easier, 10 foot would limit access to my rear gate.

Besides can one ever truly build a big enough shed?



5500 sq ft is more than twice the size of my whole house.

 

[Magnum440d100]

I work out of a 10’x12’ shed.

When I say it is cramped, it is CRAMPED!

Although I have 3 motors on stands that really shouldn’t be in there. At least the one motor shouldn’t be in there, but it is freshly machined, and I don’t want it in the weather...

But I digress..

No matter how big you build, it’ll be too small...

 

[MushCreek]

I am reworking my 8x12. I cleaned out tons of ****, moved it, and moved the door from the long wall to the short wall. I use it primarily as a garage for my zero turn, and it wouldn't fit in the side door, plus it would have blocked access to the ends of the shed. In it, I have the zero turn, pressure washer, tiller, chainsaws, weedeater, blower, etc., plus all of the hand yard tools. I built a bench on the back end that the back of the ZT fits under. The bench provides storage for small tools and gas cans. The pressure washer and part of the tiller fit unbder the bench as well. All of the small stuff hangs on the walls. I added a small window (the smallest one they had at the big box store), and having a light source makes it a lot better. I might someday empty it all out and spray the walls with cheap white paint.

Mine has a small loft, with an access hatch at one end. I can put long stuff up there, although mostly it's a wasp habitat.

The trick now will be keeping it clean and organized. When we built our small house, we moved in furniture until it looked nice, then STOPPED. All of our previous houses have been hopelessly cluttered; our new one is nice and open. It took me 60 years to figure this out. Same goes for the shed; it's very functional right now, so nothing else of size is going in there.

Luckily, I have a big barn/shop, but it is now hopelessly cluttered with all of the **** that wouldn't fit in the house or shed. I'll probably spend the rest of my days trying to get rid of stuff and get the shop to the same clean state as the house and shed.

As for the size- either one will work. I think 8x12 will look better, though.

 

[paredown]

No matter how big you build, it’ll be too small...

This should be the Garage Journal motto!

 

[paredown]

<snip>

I'll probably spend the rest of my days trying to get rid of stuff and get the shop to the same clean state as the house and shed.

As for the size- either one will work. I think 8x12 will look better, though.

Yes--I'm on a tear this year to get rid of a lot of stuff that I have saved 'just in case' or brought home because 'that might come in handy'.

We have been renovating for 10 years--low budget, some health struggles and everything pretty much done by me alone slowed it to a crawl--and I am so sick and tired of living with a mess of tools and supplies.

My spring sucesses so far:
(1) Mostly cleaned my carport-converted-to-garage so I can do more work in there;
(2) Built lumber rack for same;
(3) Renovated my cabinet saw, bought and installed a usable fence for it, so I can finally use it to finish some cabinet projects;
(4) Build a quickie woodshed out of recycled pallets and some salvaged PT lumber:
(5) Took a full load of pine limbs and brush to the local recycling center--I'll get another load out this week;
(6) Took a full load of lumber to the dump (900#s) that was destroyed from sitting outside after the tarps failed and the carpenter ants moved in;

Next:
(1) finish some cabinets in the garage to move and organize all the tools;
(2) get next year's wood split
(3) build the storage shed and move all outdoor tools/devices in

After that--I'll be looking to see what I can donate or give away. Should be an interesting year!

 

[niget2002]

I put painters tape down on the driveway and moved all my lawn stuff into the box when I did this.

It really helped to visualize what size I needed for my current stuff. I then added about a foot in each direction to put in more shelves.