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sheet metal brakes

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kaffine

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Henderson, NV
I am looking at getting a sheet metal brake. What should I be looking at on used units to make sure it isn't worn out.

Also when looking at capacity if it says it can do 16 gauge at full width would it be able to bend thicker if it isn't full width?

How do you safely lift one into a truck? I'm not sure what I can use for lift points.

Thanks.
 
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metalmagpie

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I really suggest a box and pan brake. Buy a Chinese 48" 16 gauge model new. As machines go they are quite cheap. You can keep them going for decades with a little patience and ingenuity.

I suggest an Enco. Wait until you can get free shipping. It can be done.

metalmagpie
 
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Cyberbear

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It's difficult to describe what to look for in a used brake. Other than seeing it's overall condition as far as how much use/abuse, worn pivot points, and clamping edge straightness, you'll have to make your best guess. Ask if you can try bending a piece of sheet metal before making your decision.
Any kind of brake, pan of finger, is better than none, but the finger brake is my first choice. The heavier gauge units are more costly but usually worth it and you won't be tempted to bend that short but heavy piece and possibly spring your machine. Most units are fairly stout except for some of the lighter imported ones, and should stand up to any lifting when using good sense. I usually lean towards a name brand unit over an import, new or used. Go talk with a used equipment dealer and get some good info about what to look for. My 4' 14 ga. pan brake was free, but I long for a decent finger brake.
 
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Tucko

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Whittier, Ca
metalmagpie said:
I really suggest a box and pan brake. Buy a Chinese 48" 16 gauge model new. As machines go they are quite cheap. You can keep them going for decades with a little patience and ingenuity.

I suggest an Enco. Wait until you can get free shipping. It can be done.

metalmagpie
Click to expand...

I suggest quite the opposite. Look for a used Pexto, Tennsmith, or Roper Whitney box and pan. These may cost more, but you'll be getting a good solid tool that won't let you down. You will need the attachment angle on the bottom bending leaf to bend at full capacity. You can exceed capacity on smaller pieces.
 
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OldNeons

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I'm with Tucko, save your $ and a buy a good tool the first time, assuming you will use it. A Tennsmith or Whitney brake will last a lifetime for most. If you will use it a few times a year, the Enco will likely be fine....
 
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kaffine

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Thanks.

I just missed a 10ft 14 gauge brake on craigslist :(

I will continue to look. Why is it when I don't have a need for a tool I see them all the time for sale as soon as I find a need for it no one is selling them.

I am taking a sheet metal fabrication class and was disappointed in the equipment they have. I was hoping I could take a project in and do a few bends but the equipment they have doesn't have the capacity. Should be a good class though as I have not done any sheet metal work before and am not familiar with the equipment.
 
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danski0224

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Jan 29, 2005
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Near Naperville, IL
kaffine said:
I am looking at getting a sheet metal brake. What should I be looking at on used units to make sure it isn't worn out.

Also when looking at capacity if it says it can do 16 gauge at full width would it be able to bend thicker if it isn't full width?

How do you safely lift one into a truck? I'm not sure what I can use for lift points.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Bad-

Slop in the pivot points

Gouges/dents in on the bending area

Unequal bend across the width of the brake with a test piece. Some of this can be adjusted out if the brake is not wore out. The bend should be a minimum of 1".

Generally speaking, a 16 ga rated brake could do 14 ga centered and 1/2 width. There are "16 ga" rated brakes and *16 ga* rated brakes. Not all ratings are equal. If you plan to bend 16 ga material most of the time, get a 14 ga rated brake.

kaffine said:
I just missed a 10ft 14 gauge brake on craigslist :(
Click to expand...

If you are asking how to lift one of these in your first post in this thread, then you would have a problem with this one. This one would be almost 14' outside to outside and weigh about 4,000 pounds.
 
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kaffine

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Thanks.

If bringing a piece of metal with me to test it how wide a piece should I have? I figure use a piece close to the max length as I can and a reasonable thickness considering the capacity of the brake. Not sure how much is required so it can be clamped securely in place.
 
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Mattlt

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Probably goes without saying, but remember to search on both spellings of the word "brake." People still call it a "break!"

You'll probably also run across listings for vehicles / machinery with "hydrolic breaks." LOL!
 
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OldNeons

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kaffine said:
Thanks.

If bringing a piece of metal with me to test it how wide a piece should I have? I figure use a piece close to the max length as I can and a reasonable thickness considering the capacity of the brake. Not sure how much is required so it can be clamped securely in place.
Click to expand...

I would find out what rated capacity is ahead of time and bring a piece of that material in full width x at least 6"wide. Then you can get a real feel for how accurate the "gage" rating is (as mentioned above this varies and is not always accurate). Another option is to bring the material you plan to be working with most of the time (if consistent), and use it for test so you have an idea how it works with that material.

I have a 16 gauge 48" Tennsmith brake - with the extensions on the apron "handles" and the counter weight in place it does a nice job with rated material thickness at full width. I have tried the same on cheap imported brakes and that is NOT the case.....
 
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matt_i

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ALso a user of the Tennsmith 48-16 brake.

They won't bend thicker in smaller widths.

Biggest issue I see is missing fingers, from 1 missing to only 1 left.

Next issue is overloading the finger(s) either bending them (they don't lineup) or the nose radius gets crushed into a much larger radius comparatively.

It is one of those tools where if its not an obvious "rustoleum rebuild" the visual condition should give you some quick clues.

As almost always when buying stationary tools & machines, heavier = better. Check weights of comparative products to see how much structure is in there.
 
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OldNeons

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I would agree with what Matt just said - good advice. I have not tried shorter widths of material thicker than 16 ga on my brake as I didn't want to risk damaging it. I mainly work in 18 ga. Good advice on the weight comparison - no replacement for plenty of iron :)) Bending heavier material would be nice once in a while - I have a 6' x 35 ton pneumatic press brake I need to get set up and functional when I have the space....
 
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