Sheet metal skill saw blade?
- Thread starter jabberwoki
- Start date
gahrajmahal
Well-known member
I just finished an aluminum railing installation. The instructions were on you tube from the manufacturer and it showed them cutting the railings and spindles with a cordless circular saw. I thought I’d give it a try and it worked great! I had just recently tried one of the orange CMT blades in my cordless Metabo circular saw. It takes a regular 7-1/4 dia blade, but they are really thin. It’s not even a high tooth count as I just bought the ripping model, like this..
www.menards.com
If I was cutting sheet metal I usually grab my Kett panel shears. The type that removes a 1/4” strip as it runs along.
CMT® ITK-Plus™ 6-1/2" x 24-Tooth Framing Circular Saw Blade
For framing/decking and general construction. Faster cuts thanks to special V-DRIVE teeth.
www.menards.com
If I was cutting sheet metal I usually grab my Kett panel shears. The type that removes a 1/4” strip as it runs along.
micromind
Well-known member
Back in the 80s, my Dad and I built pole barns. They had the standard barn tin on the sides and roof. I found the best way to cut the metal was with an air hammer (Parker .401 type) and a muffler splitter bit.
It cut fast and the edge wasn't all that sharp, easy to handle.
It cut fast and the edge wasn't all that sharp, easy to handle.
jack stand
Well-known member
Finding a metal cutting blade for those early cordless saws might be a challenge.
Start on the internet, you'll be forever searching at the hardware stores.
Start on the internet, you'll be forever searching at the hardware stores.
mark-NJ
Well-known member
I see these diablo blades for steel at HD and always wonder if they're really "all that". On the occasional need that I need to cut some steel plate (1/4" thick, max) I'm tempted to put one of these in my circular saw & give it a whirl. Then I consider whether or not the metal dust will wreck my saw. After all, aren't these metal-cutting blades meant to go in saws that are designed specifically for cutting metal? (My circular saw is a nice one & I'd rather not destroy it.)
Then I think, "Go on CL or FBMP and find a used, 'I don't care' $20 saw and try that, saving my good saw for wood, as it's intended". Ultimately, though, I end up putting a bunch of carbide wheels in my angle grinder and making a mess "the conventional way".
So I'm eager to read more in this thread about these metal-cutting blades & how you're all using them.
Then I think, "Go on CL or FBMP and find a used, 'I don't care' $20 saw and try that, saving my good saw for wood, as it's intended". Ultimately, though, I end up putting a bunch of carbide wheels in my angle grinder and making a mess "the conventional way".
So I'm eager to read more in this thread about these metal-cutting blades & how you're all using them.
jack stand
Well-known member
The purpose built saws are highly "guarded" to catch the chips. I believe that they may run at a little slower rpm.
I've used the Diablo metal cutting blade in one of my "regular" skill saws and cutting thin steel is not harmful to the saw.
Wear safety glasses and if you have a face shield that would be better.
For longer cuts, a clamped on straight edge is worth doing for better results and any twisting in the cut is hard on the carbides. (Blade longevity)
I've used the Diablo metal cutting blade in one of my "regular" skill saws and cutting thin steel is not harmful to the saw.
Wear safety glasses and if you have a face shield that would be better.
For longer cuts, a clamped on straight edge is worth doing for better results and any twisting in the cut is hard on the carbides. (Blade longevity)
OP
jabberwoki
Well-known member
I found a diablo metal blade that would fit. Trouble is i'd have to order it and would see it on Monday.
I'm doing the work this weekend so I'll prolly just use the shear.
I'm doing the work this weekend so I'll prolly just use the shear.
Bodj Built
Well-known member
What kind of sheetmetal and thickness? A regular wood blade cuts aluminum, even when the blade is flipped backwards. Home depot carries the blades needed to cut steel
mark-NJ
Well-known member
Aluminum? I shove that right through my tablesaw. Carbide teeth, straight Biesemeyer fence, full face shield....excellent results every time.
OP
jabberwoki
Well-known member
It's just thin gauge roof/siding sheet metal.
I'm doing a small extension on my shop.
I'm doing a small extension on my shop.
danielbuck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
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- 919
you can do that with sheet metal ("tin") snips, I wouldn't try a skill saw on that, the teeth are way to far apart. it'll probably work, but probably won't be a clean cut.
alwaysFlOoReD
Well-known member
By the cheapest carbide blade with as many teeth as possible. Use it. Wear long sleeves, leather gloves and eye protection. There will be lots of sharp metal bits flying, including the odd carbide bit if you aren't careful and smooth.
Consider the blade as a consumable (throwaway).
Consider the blade as a consumable (throwaway).
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
I have a couple Diablo Steel Demon blades that I use in my 7-1/4" circular saws. Both are regular old circular saws, not metal specific. One is a 15 year old corded Ryobi saw, and the other is a Milwaukee M18 battery saw.
With either saw, I can cut 3/8" plate steel like I'm cutting through plywood. They make a very clean cut that doesn't get too hot. They will throw metal chips everywhere, so wear a face mask and be prepared to clean up the floor or driveway after. One of those magnetic pick up tools with the release handle from Harbor Freight works wonders. I originally bought my first blade to make a toothbar for the tractor without needing to borrow a plasma cutter or burn through a ton of angle grinder cutting discs. Very happy with the Steel Demons and will continue to buy them in the future. $30 is a "steal" for them.
OP has a 5-1/4" circular saw which I've never heard of and certainly have never seen blades in that size. Not sure what his options are.
danski0224
Well-known member
Cutting metal with a saw made for wood will result in a large amount of hot chips being thrown everywhere. It's just like wood sawdust, but hot metal.
I would very strongly suggest using safety glasses and goggles/face shield.
The guard system on a metal cutting circular saw is different, and designed to contain most of the chips.
jwith68
Well-known member
I just tried a steel-cutting blade in a regular 7-1/4" saw myself. I wasn't cutting any where near 3/8" plate, just 16 ga sheet. It did a very nice job. There was an older B-D saw in my F-I-L's accumulation that was probably picked up on a yard sale for $5, and it worked just fine. Super clean, burr free cut. Yes, it does throw some chips, and you want to wear good eye protection at the very least. I bought a cheap (~$20) blade off Amazon just to try it. Many years ago, I was one of the guys that would turn a wood cutting blade around backwards and cut one to several layers of steel siding. This is way better than that.
For the OP with the 5-1/4" saw, it depends on how much clearance you have and what the arbor arrangement is. There are a few 5-3/8" metal-cutting circular saws out there, including a Bauer from HF. If one of the blades for them will fit on your saw, you might be in business. I looked on Amazon for the one I bought couple months ago ("Yolan") and it appears they are no longer on there in the 7-1/4" size, but I did find this one for one of the 5-3/8" saws.
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larry4406
Well-known member
I know OP said sheet metal, but I found this impressive for thicker metal