Sheet metal tools and brakes?
- Thread starter Jason280
- Start date
The Di-Acro brake is what I wanted the most, and I realize its missing some of the "fingers". Its around 37" wide, so I assume its a 24" model. Doesn't look like replacement fingers are cheap to source, may have to con a buddy of mine into making some on his mill. I have the handles for it, just took them off for transport....holy hell is it heavy!
Other than a few of the fingers, anything else look missing?
As far as the fingers go, why the different sizes and styles?
Other than a few of the fingers, anything else look missing?
As far as the fingers go, why the different sizes and styles?
The fingers on the break are different widths to allow you to make bends of various widths. Think it's exact name is a box break. The different style fingers, not sure. I used to do aircraft sheet metal. I recognize all the tools. What you have is more for working on tin, or ducting. But they can be used within their gage limits on tin or aluminum.
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slackdaddy1
Well-known member
I didn't notice any pictures of tools???
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IBEW702
Well-known member
I saw a post on arf.com with the same tools...
tgb
Well-known member
All that stuff has a 16 gauge capacity,
dr_clyde
Well-known member
That Beverly shear is rated to 14ga steel and 18ga stainless.
The corner notcher is cool. I want one for my collection of sheet metal tools. Albeit one more heavy duty.
The diacro stuff has a huge collector following. It wouldn't surprise me if you can get the fingers off eBay or something.
That's a nice setup for light gauge sheet metal work.
The corner notcher is cool. I want one for my collection of sheet metal tools. Albeit one more heavy duty.
The diacro stuff has a huge collector following. It wouldn't surprise me if you can get the fingers off eBay or something.
That's a nice setup for light gauge sheet metal work.
matt_i
Well-known member
My guess is the fingers are something like 4140 quench & temper for hardness.
Could also use A2 tool steel for easier heat treatment but the material is likely going to be more expensive.
I don't know about the max depth box on the finger brake...1-1/2" or 2"? not sure.
Those would be ideal for making chimney flashings, metal organizer trays (pans) to organize all of your toolboxes, amongst many other uses. Great start, those DiAcro tools are in demand, imo they will hold or increase value if you can restore function if you ever wanted to go to bigger capacity machines.
Tools that can shear or bend 1/8" or 11ga mild steel material are going to be weighed in tons for each one.
Could also use A2 tool steel for easier heat treatment but the material is likely going to be more expensive.
I don't know about the max depth box on the finger brake...1-1/2" or 2"? not sure.
Those would be ideal for making chimney flashings, metal organizer trays (pans) to organize all of your toolboxes, amongst many other uses. Great start, those DiAcro tools are in demand, imo they will hold or increase value if you can restore function if you ever wanted to go to bigger capacity machines.
Tools that can shear or bend 1/8" or 11ga mild steel material are going to be weighed in tons for each one.
I'm in the process of making stands for each tool, but trying to figure out how big the footprint needs to be. I kind of have an idea on the brake, but not sure about the notcher. The rear portion has the mounting holes, but not sure what to do about the front under the table support. If I leave the base solid, then the pieces will be trapped underneath....I guess I could cut an open area, but still need to do some figuring on dimensions.
dr_clyde
Well-known member
My experience is that box and pan brake fingers are just cold rolled steel bar.
Press brake tooling is another story.
matt_i
Well-known member
You may well be right 
My thought is if you are going to use at max capacity, if you are forming material A with equal strength material B there can be deformation on both parts. It happens all of the time on larger Diacro rotary benders forming CRS round with soft/non-hardened W1 pins. Get into stainless steel (of lesser thickness obviously) at capacity and the deformation can be concentrated on the softer material until it work hardens. It is disappointing to put in a bunch of work machining up parts only to have the forming edge get rounded over because then it doesn't bend cleanly. One could always rockwell test a finger on the top surface to get a reliable answer
Another word of wisdom to Mr Jason, don't extrapolate 1/16" material @ 24" wide to mean it can handle 1/8" material at 2" wide...the results are always disappointing
My thought is if you are going to use at max capacity, if you are forming material A with equal strength material B there can be deformation on both parts. It happens all of the time on larger Diacro rotary benders forming CRS round with soft/non-hardened W1 pins. Get into stainless steel (of lesser thickness obviously) at capacity and the deformation can be concentrated on the softer material until it work hardens. It is disappointing to put in a bunch of work machining up parts only to have the forming edge get rounded over because then it doesn't bend cleanly. One could always rockwell test a finger on the top surface to get a reliable answer Another word of wisdom to Mr Jason, don't extrapolate 1/16" material @ 24" wide to mean it can handle 1/8" material at 2" wide...the results are always disappointing
Thanks!
I've built quite a few different stands with semi brake drums, but wasn't sure if the setup would be right for the notcher. The notcher itself is pretty heavy, probably 150-175lbs or more, and the balance is kind of odd. The mounting holes are in the rear, where most of the weight is, but the support underneath the table makes it want to tilt forward somewhat in use. That's why the 6" box tubing is positioned towards the rear of the drum, not in the center.
Speaking of the 6" box tubing, this is the first time I've used any in a project (I picked up a piece at the local scrap yard). The mounting holes in the base of the notcher are centered on 6", and I didn't realize this until after I'd drilled my holes for the top plate. I could make the rear holes work, but had to notch the box tubing at the front to clear the nuts.
Oh, the entire thing is heavy...probably close to 300-325lbs
I've built quite a few different stands with semi brake drums, but wasn't sure if the setup would be right for the notcher. The notcher itself is pretty heavy, probably 150-175lbs or more, and the balance is kind of odd. The mounting holes are in the rear, where most of the weight is, but the support underneath the table makes it want to tilt forward somewhat in use. That's why the 6" box tubing is positioned towards the rear of the drum, not in the center.
Speaking of the 6" box tubing, this is the first time I've used any in a project (I picked up a piece at the local scrap yard). The mounting holes in the base of the notcher are centered on 6", and I didn't realize this until after I'd drilled my holes for the top plate. I could make the rear holes work, but had to notch the box tubing at the front to clear the nuts.
Oh, the entire thing is heavy...probably close to 300-325lbs
