sheet metal workbench top

[scale]

I picked up a ~60x30 desk......and its a decent heavy laminate top with particle board.

the nice thing about this unit is it is a lift table so it goes from about 20 inches low to right up to your eyeballs high....maybe 5.5ft or so with a flick of a lever.

the legs and base are heavy....metal......and the top appears to be replaceable/removable when needed which will be nice.

My goal is to keep this outside which will destroy the top quite quick the way that it is. Im thinking it would be nice to wrap the top in either a thin sheet of galvanized or something else but wondering if anyone has any recommendations. IM sure water will get under whatever i use eventually and destroy it but id like to prolong whatever top i have on it while its outside. Im in the midwest so winters are a real pain. Id probably throw it up on the size so ice/snow/water wont sit on it for 9 months out of year.

Since the top looks to be so easy to remove, replacing it will be simple once its time but i figure id try to prolong the tops as best i can.

I was even thinking some laminate flooring. I have some of that snap together stuff but im sure water would get down in there.
Maybe i can find a nice chunk of solid linolem. I dont know how wide that stuff used to come in but that would be 100% like putting a giant piece of solid plastic over it which would seal out water pretty good. Sadly i gutted a house a few years back and it has the coolest 60s pattern lineolum in it that would have been perfect

 

[The Cobbler]

I don't think thin sheet metal, or flooring will protect the original top for very long. it might even add to the decay as it will trap moisture .

 

[The Metric System]

I would replace the existing top with some pressure-treated dimensional lumber. It will be cheap, water can drain between the boards, and it will hold up to the elements for years between replacement.

 

[CV428]

Wood is going to be the most economical- whether you go with OSB or get a nice expensive slab of butcher block. I nabbed a machine frame from a dumpster 13 years ago, 3m x 1.5m. I put 3/4" OSB subflooring on the top and used leftover floor epoxy. It looked great.

But, I can tell you from experience that powdercoated 7ga 1018 holds up amazingly well. I have two other massive workbenches with 7ga steel tops. Don't laminate downward- build spacers/standoffs if you decide to go the steel route.

 

[Stuart in MN]

How will the lift mechanism survive outdoors? Especially if it's one of those tables that are electrically powered.
Maybe it's as simple as covering the whole thing with a tarp when not in use.

 

[Fav Onefour]

How will the lift mechanism survive outdoors? Especially if it's one of those tables that are electrically powered.
Maybe it's as simple as covering the whole thing with a tarp when not in use.

That was my first thought.
Who cares what top is on the thing if it doesn't work. After it quits working you just have a fancy desk with one height.

 

[Shitbox]

I’d go with 3/4 plywood take some dap latex caulk (the clear that starts white dries clear) fill any voids, then mix some with water until it’s brushable, coat all you edges and anything that’s exposed to the elements, let it dry and paint. I personally use oil based paint but use whatever you want. Did this on my half pipe over 10 years ago and it’s still going strong sitting out in Nor Cal summers/winters. If you go steel on top make sure you paint or clear it.

 

[CraigStu]

2-3 coats of oil based paint extra heavy on the edges I think will be best. Or spend the $ an replace the top w/ kitchen counter top like Corian. But get a brand that is 1" thick with NO wood.

 

[scale]

Thanks! Im not too concerned about the mechanics of the table. its all sealed inside it self nicely. Its just a set up heavy springs on a release which is cable actuated. Its quite simple. In the end im only into it for $25 for the whole thing. I suspect it was probably a couple grand brand new. It is an office grade type table. Very heavy. The entire top is attached to the legs at the bottom with screw/lags that go up into the 1 inch countertop which is laminate over particle board. This will be easily replaceable with OSB as needed. The spring mech is adjustable using a crank to adjust tension. At first i thought you used the crank to raise and lower but that is done 1 handed via a cable pull in the center of the table. Adjust the spring depending on what load you have on the table and it easily moves up on down. Kind of neat. I plan to take out the self adjusting/leveling feet and use those as mount points for 2x4s and then ill put wheels/casters on the 2x4s so i can roll it around. Yes maybe a large tarp would be helpful in the winter months. It is hell on anything around here that is outside.

I like the idea of the DAP or the heavy coats of oil based paint. I have a smaller table on the patio that i have hand a bit of OSB on untreated for probably the past 8 years or more now and its still ok. Not rotted. Its weathered real bad but its still solid. Id imagine either the DAP or Oil Based Paint woudl have really helped. Im due to replace that. Ill probably just throw an other new layer right over the top of what is there. Ill try and coat that this time around and see how long it lasts.

i had a box of that vinyl laminate plank flooring which i cut up and snapped together and put top. Its just sitting on there now not glued down or anything. I might try and tack that down with some adhesive in the corners so it doenst slide around. I had to use that flooring somewhere. I was sick of tripping over the box of it for the past few years. My luck water will just get underneath it and rot things faster. My thought was to throw down a a layer or 2 of poly and then the flooring slab on that. I Guess water always finds a way though. Also.....it would be harder to glue down with the poly under it.

Obviously overthinking nonsense that doesnt matter is something i do all to often.....and here i go again.

Another thing i have thought of doing lag bolting some long metal strips to the bottom and then welding large nuts to the strips such that i can mount my bench grinder, vise or whatever else while doing a project and then quickly be able to remove it and store them inside when not in use. I guess we will see if that idea ever happens. If i put holes in the top, then water issues start so might rethink that.

Thanks for the ideas everyone

 

[CraigStu]

For the flooring I'd glue it on w/ DL Premium adhesive. The DL Heavy Duty comes out like peanut butter and works great for many uses. But the Premium is more like mayonnaise so it works better for laminating. Run a bead around the edges and a few across the top, sit the flooring on there and sit a bunch of paint cans, batteries, sacks of rocks or whatever you have handy that weighs. I have flooring on one work table and it is fantastic.

 

[MichaelP]

Painted marine-grade plywood on pressure treated (or cedar) wood base. Keep tarp on top that doesn't prevent good ventilation under the wood base.

I don't know what you're going to use the desk for. Maybe Hardie board alone or covered with ceramic/linoleum tiles or linoleum sheet will work for your purposes. I'm sure you'll still need a pressure treated or ceder wood frame underneath.