Sheet rock ceiling framing question

[Cadmandu]

Hi all I have a 30x36 pole garage.
The trusses are on 48 in centers
I want to use 1/2 in sheetrock and hang perpendicular to the trusses. Can I just frame out the trusses by installing 2x4 on 24 in centers.
How long should the screws be
Is unfaced insulation ok I have double bubble under roof
Thanks

 

[Uncle murph]

Hi all I have a 30x36 pole garage.
The trusses are on 48 in centers
I want to use 1/2 in sheetrock and hang perpendicular to the trusses. Can I just frame out the trusses by installing 2x4 on 24 in centers.
How long should the screws be
Is unfaced insulation ok I have double bubble under roof
Thanks

Yes on the 2x4s,2’ on center.1 1/4” screws with drywall adhesive.Its a Industry standard.

 

[Cadmandu]

Can I run 1x3 furring strips running below the trusses on 24" center running perpendicular or cut 2x4 x46.5 in and install flush with bottom of trusses in between each one

 

[Viper98912]

I'm not an expert, but 24" O/C for 1/2" in a ceiling application may show some sagging over time? I'd go tighter than 24" O/C or go with 5/8", but I'm not an expert

 

[showtime96]

If you want 24"oc you'll want 5/8 drywall. You can use 1/2 if you go 16" oc.

 

[Cadmandu]

Thanks that makes sense

 

[racecougar]

One thing to be mindful of: are the trusses rated for the bottom chord dead load that you'll be applying to them?

 

[Cadmandu]

One thing to be mindful of: are the trusses rated for the bottom chord dead load that you'll be applying to them?

I will look it up

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Take a look at metal 'Hat Channel'... https://www.clarkdietrich.com/products/furring-channel-hat-channel#submittals

BTW, 1/2" standard sheetrock weighs 1.78# sq. ft. USG offers 'ultralight' which weighs 1.375# sq. ft.

 

[billconner]

Just for ease, you could install metal liner panels. They'll span between your trusses without any additional framing and are prefinished. Just seems like a lot of work to install 2x4s, drywall, and then tape and paint.

I'm not positive but for 4' span, I think 2x4 needs to be vertical, so framing between trusses works. I think if flat across bottom of truss it would sag over time with drywall and insulation.

Whatever ceiling is, I think blown in insulation is most effective. No gaps around framing. I prefer cellulose but fibreglass will work.

PS: Tool Tyrant has very good option.

 

[p00p]

would a drop ceiling be of interest?

 

[rlitman]

Take a look at metal 'Hat Channel'... https://www.clarkdietrich.com/products/furring-channel-hat-channel#submittals

BTW, 1/2" standard sheetrock weighs 1.78# sq. ft. USG offers 'ultralight' which weighs 1.375# sq. ft.

Good point. The hat channel is lighter than wood, and thinner, so the ceiling ends up higher. Just use sheet metal screws.

There are some 1/2" drywall products that are rated for 24" OC ceilings, and USG ultralight is one of them, but the standard stuff is known to sag as mentioned above.

https://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/sheetrock-ultralight-panels-submittal-en-wb2501.pdf

 

[billconner]

Good point. The hat channel is lighter than wood, and thinner, so the ceiling ends up higher. Just use sheet metal screws.

There are some 1/2" drywall products that are rated for 24" OC ceilings, and USG ultralight is one of them, but the standard stuff is known to sag as mentioned above.

https://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/sheetrock-ultralight-panels-submittal-en-wb2501.pdf

Think this will not sag with blown in an on top of it? I appreciate easier to install but seems close to edge, and if ever a roof leak, sure to say. Big enough leak and anything will of course.

If stuck on drywall, I'd go 5/8 and 4 x 16 sheets and rent the very best lift I could.

 

[rlitman]

Think this will not sag with blown in an on top of it? I appreciate easier to install but seems close to edge, and if ever a roof leak, sure to say. Big enough leak and anything will of course.

If stuck on drywall, I'd go 5/8 and 4 x 16 sheets and rent the very best lift I could.

Straight from USG:

Note: 1. On ceilings to receive water-based texture material, maximum framing spacing is 24 in. (610 mm) OC for parallel and perpendicular application with weight of unsupported insulation not exceeding 2.2 lb./sq. ft. (10.7 kg/sq. m.). Sag performance has been independently verified...

 

[billconner]

I saw that. I don't know how much insulation OP needs. I'd have R49 to meet code here, well over the 2.2 pdf.

 

[rlitman]

I saw that. I don't know how much insulation OP needs. I'd have R49 to meet code here, well over the 2.2 pdf.

The chart I found shows R49 blown in fiberglass loose fill for ceilings is 16.5" thick and a minimum of 0.747 PSF. R60 can be had for under 1 PSF. Cellulose and rock wool are heavier, and you'd have to consult with their spec sheets.

 

[Bert_]

Tin would be a lot easier. No other framing needed, screw it right to the trusses.

 

[csp]

I saw that. I don't know how much insulation OP needs. I'd have R49 to meet code here, well over the 2.2 pdf.

You'd have to meet building code for living space in a pole barn/garage?

 

[billconner]

You have to meet energy code in heated buildings in NY so yes - it's about energy, not living in it.

The chart I found shows R49 blown in fiberglass loose fill for ceilings is 16.5" thick and a minimum of 0.747 PSF. R60 can be had for under 1 PSF. Cellulose and rock wool are heavier, and you'd have to consult with their spec sheets.

I looked again and after two different answers, liked up another 4 or 5. It is under a pound psf in all cases but varied from 16.5 to 20.5. I think it may have to do with how it's blown. Owens Corning talked about their AtticCat system. Just interesting.

I did see screw spacing was critical to achieving the strength - 8" oc. I assume glue is of no use on metal hat channels, but don't know.

 

[rburke65]

By the time you buy and cut all the 2x4s, screws or nail them, your labor and time, I’m thinking you could have added a few more trusses and had a stronger ceiling and less screwing around. As always, just my opinion.

 

[paredown]

I like the look of those hat channels--I'll file that away in the memory banks...

I was going to suggest using steel stud--also much less weight than 2x lumber, and can be installed directly to the bottom of the truss, and drywall screwed and glued to that. I did this to level a ceiling recently--sistered the steel stud onto the sides of the wood roof joists and screwed the 5/8 directly to the steel stud. I was super careful though to get good bite on both sets of screws--you don't want strip-outs.

Hat channels look like they would give you a nicer job though, with less height eaten up.

 

[Cadmandu]

What would be stronger 2x4 placed on 24" centers between each truss flush with each truss.
Or 1x3 x 8' furring strips screwed to the bottom of each truss on 24" centers.

 

[egdede]

Spend a few extra dollars and use cabinet screws:

#8 x 1-1/2 in. Star Drive Washer Head Low Profile Cabinet Wood Screw Pail (330-Piece)

They will hold os much more than drywall screws, that's for sure and they paint just fine. I've mudded over them in the house and no one tell (old wavy plaster ceilings help on that front). It's a shop, don't even have to mud them!

 

[Cadmandu]

Sounds like a nice screw. I like the .160 dia good for wood

 

[Finally]

The screw type choice is not relevant.. meaning drywall screws at Home Depot are fine. (length and installation is) What is important is that you don't imbed the screw too far and tear the face of the drywall, otherwise it will not hold the drywall properly and sag no matter what you use. It should be a nice dimple, you should not over drive the screw. You also need to use actual ceiling board, this is all we use in the industry. It is labeled as ceiling board on the drywall itself and is 1/2". I would not use wood furring strips to span 4', they will sag no doubt. Metal channels are also a good way to go. I have been in residential construction for over 20 years, all trusses can hold the weight of drywall.

 

[acer66]

I have 1/2“ drywall 24“o/c and so sagging after 5 years with R38 but that is in a living space.

 

[kmmn]

Residential Trusses are typically 24" on center, but that can be a problem over time. If I was framing a house, I'd put strapping perpendicular to the trusses to get 16" on Center (I've reattached sagging drywall in a garage and it's a pain in the neck (literally)). For trusses 48" on Center, you're going to need 2x4s, but that means the drywall should run perpendicular to them and not the trusses. Double check the truss rating, but it should be able to support the weight

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

What would be stronger 2x4 placed on 24" centers between each truss flush with each truss.
Or 1x3 x 8' furring strips screwed to the bottom of each truss on 24" centers.

Forget the 1x3!! That's a 'fail' waiting to happen.

You COULD go with the 2x4 blocking between the trusses, but that's a lot of 2x4 material and time. Go with the HAT CHANNEL, if you open the link I posted above and click on 'SUBMITTALS' you will see that it's available in various gauges depending on supported weight and spans.
The hat channel will also help to 'smooth out' the unevenness from truss to truss.
Bottom line...Hat channel is easier, faster, lighter and leaves you with a better finish...it's a no-brainer.
Contact a local sheetrock / metal stud supplier.

 

[egdede]

The screw type choice is not relevant.. meaning drywall screws at Home Depot are fine. (length and installation is) What is important is that you don't imbed the screw too far and tear the face of the drywall, otherwise it will not hold the drywall properly and sag no matter what you use. It should be a nice dimple, you should not over drive the screw. You also need to use actual ceiling board, this is all we use in the industry. It is labeled as ceiling board on the drywall itself and is 1/2". I would not use wood furring strips to span 4', they will sag no doubt. Metal channels are also a good way to go. I have been in residential construction for over 20 years, all trusses can hold the weight of drywall.

And with cabinet screws you don't have to worry near as much about tearing through the paper. And it is a big deal on the ceiling (especially for those looking at 24" OC).