Sheet rock ceiling

[Boneyard51]

I just noticed the sheet rock in my garage, built in 2000, is beginning to scag down between the two foot centers. The garage is uninsulated and I was planning on having it insulated with blown insulation. But with the sheet rock already slagging, I don’t think that’s a good idea. Any solutions to this problem, other than replacing the ceilings? Thanks in advance.






Bones

 

[Boneyard51]

I did not put it in, so not sure if 1/2 or 5/8s, can check. I can live with appearances, but it is coming down at the seams, also. I will get some pics and post. Thanks




Bones

 

[Kevin54]

I did not put it in, so not sure if 1/2 or 5/8s, can check. I can live with appearances, but it is coming down at the seams, also. I will get some pics and post. Thanks
Bones

Is the actual sheetrock coming down at the seams, or is it the joint tape failing? If it's just the tape, it will have to be pulled off, retaped, and remudded. Adding insulation above will help immensely.

 

[NUTTSGT]

If it's sagging and coming down at the seams, the only real fix is to replace it. I'd suggest replacing it with ribbed metal.

 

[The Cobbler]

should not be sagging, but you can always run 1x3 0r4 perpendicular to the trusses and screw the drywall to that. depends on how accessible your attic is, it may be easier/more cost effective then replacing it

 

[Boneyard51]

I posted some pics of the ceiling. I was thinking of running some 1x4s painted white every two feet? Would that work ? Would that bring the sheet rock back up or just bend the 1x4s? I was thinking of getting the longest boards I could, to kinda tie them together? While I’m not overly concern about looks, don’t want something real junky!

There are no leaks in the garage.




Bones

 

[matt_i]

If you use the drywall construction adhesive it will not come down. You can almost take out all of the screws after its cured (have on small wall panels but never the ceiling!!) and it can't move.

 

[The Cobbler]

your way would work , I was thinking on the top side of the drywall , you're thinking on the underside...

 

[Daedalus]

Is the drywall bowing as much as it appears? It looks like it would be pulling away from the joists, though I don't see any pop holes. I had 2' joist spacing in the garage on my last house and the ceiling drywall was there for over 30 years without issue. 5/8 is preferred for ceilings, but even 1/2" shouldn't be bowing like that. Screws @ 12" spacing are required on ceilings, with 1-1/4" penetration into the joists.

 

[Boneyard51]

Yeah, it’s bowing down quite a bit. I just hadn’t noticed it, as I haven’t spent much time in my shop lately. But now I’m re-organizing it now and just noticed it. I was wanting to blow some insulation in there as there is none and my A/C has trouble keeping up in the summer. But I’m afraid to put any more weight on now, as it seems to be coming down under its own weight!
And the shop is only 20 years old!





Bones

 

[jvitez]

I wouldn't do your painted 1x4 idea. It sounds good now but I think you'd always notice that it's not exactly right.

I'd install perpendicular 1x 4's, but screw white metal liner to it. No painting or taping, lasts forever. Once and done!

 

[Boneyard51]

What do you mean “ white metal liner” ?thanks in advance.





Bones

 

[ddawg16]

You need to look up there and see what your ceiling joist spacing is.

I'm thinking you have 48" spacing....which means there is NO support for those sheets in the middle....hence, no surprise they are dropping like that.

If that is the case, DO NOT blow in insulation....I bet your ceiling would cave in.

If you have 5/8's drywall up there, you can get by with 24" joist spacing.
1/2" Drywall? 16" joist spacing.

You can add extra joists......BUT....with the drywall in the way, it's going to be a real PIA

 

[bad_idea]

Another vote for 1x4s perpendicular to the trusses and liner metal attached to that. Liner metal is the stuff they put on the side of steel buildings and pole barns. You can get it made to whatever length you want when you order it.

The metal will be installed perpendicular to the 1x4s. If you want to run the metal the other way, you'll need to rip the drywall down and attach the metal to the trusses.

 

[matt_i]

If I'm having trouble with drywall screws pulling thru (basically not enough bearing under the head) I reach for GRK "cabinet screws" in 1-1/2" length. It has a large washer head and if you drive them gently with the impact tool they will solve a lot of problems.

It might be worth a try to put a couple of those in your bowed spots and see if it will pull back together. Those are obviously not flush so once the dimensional problem is corrected then I put several drywall screws each side of it to hold permanently and take out the GRK for another use.

It saves problems where you try to put in 1 drywall screw and it breaks out the back, so you move over 4" and the same thing happens, repeat until there's no solid drywall left. This is a little exaggeration but it seems like suddenly you have 10 screws in 36" of distance when there's some kind of structure that you're trying to get the drywall to conform to.

Even better if you could get above and shoot some adhesive (I used Loctite PL100) into the gap, then screw it together.

 

[NUTTSGT]

What do you mean “ white metal liner” ?thanks in advance.





Bones

White metal liner is ribbed metal siding. The liner panel is generally a thinner gauge as opposed to siding. It's intended for interior use.


Some places will keep it in stock while others will have to special order it. I used regular metal siding when I did my house garage ceiling. It was in stock to get started and I wasn't worried about the slight cost difference.

 

[bullnerd]

My old shop did that. I wasn't going to drywall it, but I did a machine job for my neighbor and I came home from work one day and the stack of wall board was at my shop.

Mine was a moisture issue I think. It got damp on the back side from humidity. No insulation.

How big is your shop?

 

[Boneyard51]

My old shop did that. I wasn't going to drywall it, but I did a machine job for my neighbor and I came home from work one day and the stack of wall board was at my shop.

Mine was a moisture issue I think. It got damp on the back side from humidity. No insulation.

How big is your shop?

Well I never really measured it, but I would guess 30x30. Will measure it when I get home from church.

It could very well be a moisture problem due to humidity, as I like in Oklahoma! I went up in the attic and my ceiling joices are on 2 ft centers, and there was no evidence of any leakage in the roof.




Bones

 

[TRWham]

Probably a moisture issue, and not necessarily from a leak. Under the right conditions (cold overnight and humid air entering when the door is opened), moisture will condense on the ceiling and damage the drywall. I have also seen roof framing issues above the garage cause drywall failures in garage ceilings.

 

[Boneyard51]

What would be a better ceiling material that Sheetrock?







Bones

 

[MushCreek]

White steel panels (liner metal) as described above. Quick to install, and already finished. No taping, mudding, painting.

I don't know if your garage is attached to the house, but if it is, and shares attic space with the house, 5/8 FireX drywall is a requirement to prevent flame spread into the shared attic. I don't think metal meets that requirement. In our attached garage, I cross-strapped the trusses on 16" centers with 2x4's laid flat. I then used 5/8ths FireX. 2x4's were cheaper than 1x4's. In my detached shop, I'm going with white liner metal.

 

[Chaz]

I'm thinking you have a moisture problem............ or joists are on 4 foot centers.

 

[i4ni]

Don't look like near enough fasteners. Or nailers. Plus it looks pretty thin like it may only be 3/8.

 

[Kevin54]

I didn't see the pics when I first replied. I'm thinking you don't have insulation above.

Remove the ceiling, redo it properly, then add insulation on top.

 

[yatg]

Did they even put tape on it? Also check in the attic and see if the sheet edges of the long split is screwed or floating.

 

[topcok88]

The OP stated he lives in OK and wants to add insulation to the ceiling because his A/C won’t keep up. The moisture problem he has is because the hot humid air is condensing and saturating his ceiling from the attic side. The same issue encountered in basements when people finish them and do not have insulation between the Sheetrock and cold concrete foundation. The best answer is to remove any ceiling that is compromised (water damage/mold/mildew), install new sheetrock, and insulate it immediately. I’m ignorant as to what your requirements are for vapor permeable membranes. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[ard]

Lack of thermal and moisture control in the room seems to be the main issue.

No insulation above, and 24" centers would be fine if the room was conditioned. IMO

 

[iamrfixit]

Definitely moisture issues, possibly due to lack of insulation, hot humid summer conditions or maybe both. Conditioning of an uninsulated space will likely just make it worse. Trying to cool a space with no insulation causes the warm moist attic air to condense on the top side. Heating the space will cause the warmer moist air inside to hit the colder ceiling and condense on the bottom side, either way the drywall wicks up the moisture.

Without conditioning the space at all, the warm humid days can also take a toll on drywall. Drywall simply can't handle a lot of moisture, the screws or nails will begin to pull through over time as the drywall softens. Drywall is not a great choice for unconditioned spaces but is required for fire code, especially in an attached garage. Yours probably just didn't get enough screws or nails to survive your hot, humid summer conditions. Depending on the condition of the drywall you might be able to add screws and pull it back up. You may want to add a plaster washer on each screw and you still need to work along the joist tightening the whole row of screws to pull the sheet up a little at a time or the screws may just pull right through.

Laying 1x4 (or 2x4) on the drywall, perpendicular to the ceiling joists, on 2' center will pull it back up and offer support. You'll need to screw through the boards and drywall into each ceiling joist. The boards will then support the drywall and you can blow insulation on top. You could then choose to install liner steel over top and fasten that material to your new wood furring strips. If that is what you prefer, then I'd definitely go with 2x4s. After the drywall is supported you should blow a layer of insulation on top.

 

[steve308]

I did 1x3 or maybe 1x4 trim boards running across the joist to pull the sheetrock back up flush and then filled in along each joist thereby giving the appearance of a coffered ceiling.
Ceiling is the best looking part of my garage.

 

[Jazz1]

Are you sure its not 3/8" sheet rock? Some cheapo's will use that and it will sag soon enough. I have 5/8" sheetrock in my garage. No issues, it's cheap and fire retardant.