To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Sheetrock ceiling help.

Tugmaster

Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2006
Messages
24
I want to finish the inside of my 20X20 garage. I did some searches on here for the different options for doing the overhead. I think drywall will be the cheapest by far. My 2x6's in the overhead are 24"os. That thickness sheetrock should I use. I would rather not have to reframe out the overhead if I can help it. Thanks, Todd
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

RWD

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 7, 2005
Messages
97
Location
south suburbs of Chicago
Is it an attached garage? If so, in a lot of places it's code to use 5/8" for fire code. 1/2" sheetrock can sag between the ceiling joists, especially in a moist environment. A simple way to avoid it is to nail up some 1x4's to the bottom of the 2x6's running perpendicular.
 

brownbagg

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 20, 2006
Messages
5,208
why put sheetrod in a garage, it just getting busted in days. Use plywood
 

spike95

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
56
Location
Houston, TX
I wish I had your problem. My ceiling is already covered and I wish that I had access to the rafters. You can hang all sorts of stuff up in between them to get out of your way. Also makes it super easy to put in hooks for holding fishing rods and stuff like that without need for a stud finder. I guess my point is that dry wall is pretty but rafters are functional.
 

Bob Paulin

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
69
Location
N.E. USA - Atlantic Canada
I wish I had your problem. My ceiling is already covered and I wish that I had access to the rafters. You can hang all sorts of stuff up in between them to get out of your way. Also makes it super easy to put in hooks for holding fishing rods and stuff like that without need for a stud finder. I guess my point is that dry wall is pretty but rafters are functional.


I, too, wanted to enclose the ceiling in my small (22 x 24) shop, yet retain access to the stuff I had stored on the rafters.

I spent a grand total of $50 for enough 2x4 acoustical tiles to cover the ceiling.

I then spent $10 for a stack of mixed 90°, 3/4" moldings which I am attaching even with the lower edge of the cross pieces.

I need to trim the panels down to 22-1/2" to fit between the 24" o.c. rafters, but I will have complete access to my entire "attic" by simply removing a panel or two.

You can often find a building that is being torn down that has suspended ceilings. Often you can simply have the stuff that would otherwise cost the contractor by filling the dumpster. Other times, you can find the stuff at quite reasonable prices.

In my case, I have a nearby lumber yard/hardware store that buys up surplus, closeouts, and overstocks. My ceiling panels were still in the original boxes, and I paid less than 20 percent of what Home ****-o sells for.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

Tugmaster

Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2006
Messages
24
Bob,

I lke the idea of the ceiling tiles. Is there any way you could post a pic? I'm a little lost on how you did the 90 deg. angle pieces. Thanks, Todd


I, too, wanted to enclose the ceiling in my small (22 x 24) shop, yet retain access to the stuff I had stored on the rafters.

I spent a grand total of $50 for enough 2x4 acoustical tiles to cover the ceiling.

I then spent $10 for a stack of mixed 90°, 3/4" moldings which I am attaching even with the lower edge of the cross pieces.

I need to trim the panels down to 22-1/2" to fit between the 24" o.c. rafters, but I will have complete access to my entire "attic" by simply removing a panel or two.

You can often find a building that is being torn down that has suspended ceilings. Often you can simply have the stuff that would otherwise cost the contractor by filling the dumpster. Other times, you can find the stuff at quite reasonable prices.

In my case, I have a nearby lumber yard/hardware store that buys up surplus, closeouts, and overstocks. My ceiling panels were still in the original boxes, and I paid less than 20 percent of what Home ****-o sells for.
 

mikeyr

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 16, 2005
Messages
1,971
Location
Santa Barbara, CA
I was going to drywall my ceiling in the new garage if the contractor ever finishes it but looking at the rafters (scissor trusses) and noticing how much junk I had in my old garage rafters makes me rethink that. I agree with the previous poster that having exposed rafters gives you a lot more options for storage and hanging things. I had really wanted this extension to my garage to look good and planned on sheetrock but function over beauty is winning out.

Does anyone have pics of a white painted roof/ceiling with all the exposed rafters ?

And how does one insulate if you don't sheetrock the ceiling ?
 

blkhonda1991

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2008
Messages
608
Location
Connecticut
Is it an attached garage? If so, in a lot of places it's code to use 5/8" for fire code. 1/2" sheetrock can sag between the ceiling joists, especially in a moist environment. A simple way to avoid it is to nail up some 1x4's to the bottom of the 2x6's running perpendicular.

the only time you need to worry about fire code is when its new construction or an addition, if its existing it already should be to code and it really only has to be on the wall separating the garage from the house
 

Bob Paulin

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
69
Location
N.E. USA - Atlantic Canada
Bob,

I lke the idea of the ceiling tiles. Is there any way you could post a pic? I'm a little lost on how you did the 90 deg. angle pieces. Thanks, Todd


Sorry, but I'm an old-schooler when it comes to photography - several 35mm bodies and lenses, but not a single digital camera.

I may have confused you with the term "90° molding."

If you can picture mounting 1/2" or 3/4" quarter-round molding at the bottom of the vertical surface of your collar ties, you can probably picture what I'm doing.

I had originally hoped to get a "roomful" of tiles along with the metal gridwork.

Had that happened, I would have screwed the "T" onto the collar tie so half the "T" would run along the bottom of the collar tie and the other half would be the shelf that supports the tiles.....but:

A.) I didn't get the gridwork and individual 20-foot pieces are over $100 each at Home Creepo....

and....

2.) I bought two bundles of molding - enough to do the ceiling then some - for $10/bundle.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom