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Sheetrock Garage Ceiling

bbmach

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Joined
Jan 18, 2009
Messages
950
Location
Atlanta
The ceiling in my two-car attached garage (22' x 22') was put up when the house was built in 1982 - with nails. As some of you might have guessed, the nail heads are beginning to show. Not too many, but enough to get my brain in gear. Apparently other ceilings in the neighborhood have come down on their own. Not something I care to imagine...

So, will coarse drywall screws take care of it? Washers of some sort? Drill then screw? Just screw?

Thanks in advance... and again later when it doesn't fall on me :thumbup:
 
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matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,797
Location
SE Michigan
If you get into the situation where the drywall has "dropped" and a new bugle head screw just "pops" by breaking out the back....get some GRK-Cabinet Screws in about 1-1/2" length. By pure windage I estimate they have approx 3x more "bearing" on the surface of the drywall due to their relatively large washer head, and they don't compromise the top paper surface with nearly as large of a hole. Put one of those in judiciously and then you can safely put in 3 or 4 bugle heads in the same area for retaining and finishing. Remove the GRK for use later. The tiny center hole gets repaired when the other heads are filled. GRK to the rescue once again!
 

mike93lx

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Dec 9, 2013
Messages
38,398
Location
Richmond, VA
Use drywall screws for drywall and cabinet screws for woodworking.

Grab one of the cheap screw setting bits, a box on 1-1/4's,your cordless drill and get it done. Set them properly and they will hold just fine.
 

nadogail

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Jan 23, 2009
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32,228
Location
Coronado, CA
There are drill attachments that allow you to install screws in your ceiling while standing on the floor.
 
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OP
B

bbmach

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Jan 18, 2009
Messages
950
Location
Atlanta
Thank you all - some great ideas and all sounds doable. :beer:
Now to get the cars out from under!
 

sqznby

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Joined
Oct 26, 2013
Messages
993
Location
Coastal NC
Use drywall screws for drywall and cabinet screws for woodworking.

Grab one of the cheap screw setting bits, a box on 1-1/4's,your cordless drill and get it done. Set them properly and they will hold just fine.

This:thumbup:

We had quite a few nails pop the second floor of our previous home.
I used sheetrock screws, one on each side of the nail that was popping out. Worked great and was not visible after finishing.
Like said above, use the correct screws and set the screw properly and you should be fine.
 

mike93lx

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
38,398
Location
Richmond, VA
If you get into the situation where the drywall has "dropped" and a new bugle head screw just "pops" by breaking out the back....get some GRK-Cabinet Screws in about 1-1/2" length. By pure windage I estimate they have approx 3x more "bearing" on the surface of the drywall due to their relatively large washer head, and they don't compromise the top paper surface with nearly as large of a hole. Put one of those in judiciously and then you can safely put in 3 or 4 bugle heads in the same area for retaining and finishing. Remove the GRK for use later. The tiny center hole gets repaired when the other heads are filled. GRK to the rescue once again!

If you install the screws properly, the paper isn't compromised at all with drywall screws
 

matt_i

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Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,797
Location
SE Michigan
I agree the bugles work great when everything is cool and flat.

But if you pop one screw you're going to put in a few more. You break out two screws on the same stud and its hard to find where it stops. If you look behind the drywall there's a big cone popped out of it which is mostly useless now, it can easily be filled but structurally its just bondo.

I used the GRK cabinet screws where I had various localized troubles and it solved them instantly without any more fuss. Its an extra tool to carry around with a T15 impact driver in addition to the scrugun but just a handful of screws will get thru a troubled area and then you can reuse them later.

If enough nails are popped the drywall can easily be "loose" from the framing if it wasn't put in with adhesive (which it likely wouldn't be). But if "stuff" gets between the drywall and the joists then it could be a wrestling match to get it screwed tight again and easy recipe for popped screws. I can't say until the job is started :)
 
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