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Sheetrock in 45 degree angle inside tight corner

branimal

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May 31, 2016
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I had to frame a tight inside 45* angle to partition two rooms. Thinking forward, I know my sheetrocker won't be able to get his screw gun into that corner. I read that drywall adhesive could be used as an alternative. Would the glue work in my case?

I think the taper can get a drywall tape and finish the inside corner. Won't be pretty - but I'll take it. As far as painting, I'm spraying it so I should be ok.

Are there any other issues I should be concerned about.

I'm framing the outside 135* angle by my right boot with a 2x6x10 cut at 22* on both sides.

Thanks.
 

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PoorUB

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Just slap some drywall mud on the studs and lean something against it to hold the drywall in place. The mud will hold it just fine.

Or construction adhesive.

Once the guy doing the finish work gets some mud in the cracks and tape on it , it won't go anywhere.

Some reason you just can't run that wall stright to the other and have 90 degree angles? I would hat to have to tape and mud that corner.
 

whateg01

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doo dah, kansas, usa
Unless there's a special reason for it, I agree with running the wall straight to the end and eliminate that corner. It'll be dead space but it already doesn't look particularly useful.
 
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branimal

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The wall splits 2 bedrooms. There's a window right at the arrow. (left side of the window.) If I cheated the wall over to the left, one bedroom would be too small. This is Brooklyn nyc. I've seen floorplans in similar buildings do something like this.

While I agree this is a hack layout, it makes both bedrooms usable.

I'll take another picture when I'm back onsite.
 

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PoorUB

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I would run the short wall out maybe a foot, 90 degrees to the outside wall, then 45 angle to the main wall. Run it as tight to the window as you can and still trim it properly. You will only lose one square foot. It will not be as objectionable to look at, and a lot easier to finish.
 

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Boogerman

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aspen cove hill
Mitre edges of a 2x6, nail it in the corner. Add a 1x2 nailer on each side of the mitred edges, as a backer for the sheetrock going into the corner. Now have enough room to finish, and won't have odd corner to paint, clean, etc. Easy fix, I do all time in this situation. I may have one open in a building now I can take picture of.

Like this:
mitre.jpg

or this:

mitre2.jpg
 
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branimal

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Mitre edges of a 2x6, nail it in the corner. Add a 1x2 nailer on each side of the mitred edges, as a backer for the sheetrock going into the corner. Now have enough room to finish, and won't have odd corner to paint, clean, etc. Easy fix, I do all time in this situation. I may have one open in a building now I can take picture of.

Like this:
mitre.jpg

or this:

mitre2.jpg
yeah a picture would be great. This looks like the quickest fix.
 

Leaflessshadetree

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Don't ask.
PITA to finish while building and to clean forever. PoorUB and Boogerman have good suggestions.
But to answer your question construction adhesive and nails will hold the drywall. Used to be done with nails only. Install the corner piece first so the others trap it.
 

The Cobbler

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Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
snap a pic of the window @ the wall
I'm thinking step the wall back a 2x4 width or whatever and keep it parallel . I think a a jambed in window with cut down trim will look better than your 45° arrangement
 

wssix99

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Chicago, IL
+1 for the suggestions above to add another short section to cut the 45 and give you a 90 degree at the outside wall and a 135 degree along the cut-in. I have a 55 degree angle on my house and it creates this nightmare everywhere. Avoide the accute angle everywhere! Even though a 3" wall will give you one more corner to tape, I'd take one 90 and one obtuse angle over the single accute angle.

I also highly recommend using hardwood or something high-quality wherever you have an angle other than 90 degrees. Having a true edge will make taping a lot easier.
 

larry_g

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oregon
Design in a small desk/cabinet that just fits in below the window. Now build the wall with a dogleg so that the small alcove is just fitting for the cabinet. That makes the wasted space into builtin storage.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Beemer

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Northeast
Mitre edges of a 2x6, nail it in the corner. Add a 1x2 nailer on each side of the mitred edges, as a backer for the sheetrock going into the corner. Now have enough room to finish, and won't have odd corner to paint, clean, etc. Easy fix, I do all time in this situation. I may have one open in a building now I can take picture of.

Like this:
mitre.jpg

or this:

mitre2.jpg
Makes sense. The original acute inside angle is worthless and squaring it out a bit would look better. Perhaps a spot for pictures or a calendar or small shelves.
 
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