67restoproj
Well-known member
Im getting ready to sheetrock my attic or loft above the garage. My question is, do you have to have nailers or blocking where the roof line meet the top of the pony wall? The trusses are on 2ft centers.
Sheetrock Nailers or Blocking in an Loft
- Thread starter 67restoproj
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IDASHO
Well-known member
If you run 5/8 rock for both the ceiling and walls, you will be fine without.
Is is a horizontal joint, no nailers needed, unless you really want them.
Just remember to rock the lid before the walls.
Is is a horizontal joint, no nailers needed, unless you really want them.
Just remember to rock the lid before the walls.
No Way. This area is critical to venting this space. If you block this area there is no circulation. Warm and/or moist are should move up and exit this area. I would imaging you have roof or gable vents to make this happen. If you block this area it traps the hot and/or moist air and can accelerate problems with mold or roofing failure due to heat.
rsanter
Well-known member
If you run 5/8 rock for both the ceiling and walls, you will be fine without.
Is is a horizontal joint, no nailers needed, unless you really want them.
Just remember to rock the lid before the walls.
what he said
bob
OP
67restoproj
Well-known member
Thanks for the replies everyone! I was hoping it didnt need blocking. Uhcrandy makes a good point also regarding venting, something I didnt think of.
Trying to get this wrapped up tonite so I can start insulating tomorrow.
blkhonda1991
Well-known member
i dont think he was planning to block up to the roof decking just at the top of the vertical leg of the truss, which would still leave space to vent the attic
back2class
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save yourself the hassle of that knee wall joint and just run a strip or small trim over that joint on top if the drywall. Will take 5 min to do and no worries about getting a difficult joint straight or cracking. I think you are asking for moisture problems putting any drywall up on the celiling.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
There is 10" of rafter with the 2x6 full length rafter and the 2x4 underneath it. It could be blocked with 2x4's and not affect air flow.
But to answer the OP's question, it would not have to be blocked. It will be no different with the spacing at that area than there will be when drywall is hung on a ceiling. Just make sure that in that short area, when you insulate, that the insulation does not go up against the bottom of the sheeting. In that area you want to use "attic baffles" or "rafter baffles". Both the same thing, just called different by different companies. Lowes carries them in the insulation section of the store and they are made out of styrofoam. Other places carry them and they may be made out of cardboard. When installed properly, they let the air flow between the roof sheeting and the baffle.
79firebird
Well-known member
One trick i help a buddy do when he had the same prob was score the drywall on the back snap it Dont cut thru the outher end and hung it. its harder to do but no mud to crack as the cut would be where the 2 walls join. 2 people can do a 8 foot chunk for a longer one might need 3 people