Itzkwik
Well-known member
For the ceiling in my shop, with trusses 24" on center, will 1/2" sheetrock work or should I use 5/8" ?
Sheetrock question
- Thread starter Itzkwik
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DIGGER_DAVE
Well-known member
Itzkwik said:
It might depend on how much humidity you run into. Is the shop going to be heated 100% of the time during the winter? If the temperature is "set back" at night during cool weather; the 1/2" can absorb condensation moisture, soften, and start to show signs of sagging as well as "pulling" of the fastening nails / screws.
If you were to use the type of "sheet rock" that is "water proof" (used in shower stalls) you could get away with 1/2"; but it costs more than 5/8."
So .. if you want a flat ceiling - no sags - no "pulls" - I would go with the 5/8."
I wish I had!
The cost is relatively nominal but the results are unparalleled, glue and screw 5/8” with 2’ centers. As discussed, it is pretty heavy, so unless you’re a young buck with a few willing friends you may need some other help. You can either fabricate a couple of makeshift “t’s” for support while screwing or rent a drywall lift for a day or two.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Wile1Coyote
Well-known member
Agree with above 5/8" is the way to go. Several guys here on the board have purchased drywall jacks off of ebay with good results as it was cheaper than renting.
Thanks for the replys. Figured I would need the 5/8", but wanted to be sure. My ceiling is 12' 6" and I probably won't have any help putting it up. That's why I was asking about the 1/2". Got a quote of $600 just for the ceiling install not counting the price of the rock or taping/finishing. I'm cheap and hate to pay for something I can do myself, but I'm thinking that its gonna be a major PITA to do with no help.
You absolutely need 5/8 for 24" oc. Moisture resistant board sags even worse than regular board, it is only rated for 12" oc.
Definately do glue, and you don't have to go nuts, just a few dabs across the joists. You need to do this because your ceiling isn't strapped and the joists will move side to side loosening the nails/screws.
Now after all that, will 5/8 sag? YEP! Moisture on either side of the board will doom it, it's like a sponge. You want to blow dense pack cellulose insulation, or poly under the rock and install batts like you probably planned. Inside roll, not spray, a quality acrylic primer sealer that is moisture resistant.
Definately do glue, and you don't have to go nuts, just a few dabs across the joists. You need to do this because your ceiling isn't strapped and the joists will move side to side loosening the nails/screws.
Now after all that, will 5/8 sag? YEP! Moisture on either side of the board will doom it, it's like a sponge. You want to blow dense pack cellulose insulation, or poly under the rock and install batts like you probably planned. Inside roll, not spray, a quality acrylic primer sealer that is moisture resistant.
Now, this is the fun part. Do you really want to do it yourself, and how much?
If you try to micro-contract the drywall you will probably spend more for a headache. Do it all or contract it all. I know you want a quality job, but this isn't the phase to toy with. Your best bang for the buck is to hire a pro who has the time and wants a job like this, and get out of the way.
You ought to look into skim coat plaster. Much better finish for the space, and the price is about equal in your area. Your problem is you should have had the sub lined up 3 months ago.
Now just to keep you guessing, my buddy just finished his garage in pre-finished white roofing panels. VERY slick!. He was all done in one day, very economical, and it is a durable-quality-bright finish for a garage. What a brilliant idea.
If you try to micro-contract the drywall you will probably spend more for a headache. Do it all or contract it all. I know you want a quality job, but this isn't the phase to toy with. Your best bang for the buck is to hire a pro who has the time and wants a job like this, and get out of the way.
You ought to look into skim coat plaster. Much better finish for the space, and the price is about equal in your area. Your problem is you should have had the sub lined up 3 months ago.
Now just to keep you guessing, my buddy just finished his garage in pre-finished white roofing panels. VERY slick!. He was all done in one day, very economical, and it is a durable-quality-bright finish for a garage. What a brilliant idea.
Paradise Ridge
Well-known member
Qtrmeg said:
Qtrmeg-
Can you tell us more about the panels your buddy used? I'm in the planning stages for my 28x28 ceiling and would be interested in something else other than drywall!
Scott
Bill K
Well-known member
I used 1/2 in my basement. one half is a grage the other is a finished office/fun space. Web trusses on 24 centers with a 30 foot span. I ran 1x4x3/4 pine screwed to the bottoms of the trusses at a right angle on to their span on 24 centers..
Finished smooth. No sags no cracks in 4 years with kids running and jumping upstairs. .
Finished smooth. No sags no cracks in 4 years with kids running and jumping upstairs. .
Der Bugmeister
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2005
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When it comes to gluing, how do you get around the moisture barrier?
boiler7904
Well-known member
You will definitely not be happy with 1/2" gyp board. I don't think the manufacturers even recommend it for 24" framing spacing. But, there is the option of 1/2" sag resistant gyp board. USG is one the companies that makes it. If you wanted to go that route, I would talk to the supplier before ordering to see if they have concerns about it in your application.
I would also talk to your building department if this is attached to your house. They would have fire rating concerns.
I would also talk to your building department if this is attached to your house. They would have fire rating concerns.
Posted previously on a different thread:
Well tex, it depends on the look you're after I guess. Eventually mine will have an industrial type feel to it, so I'm going with corrugated tin on the ceiling.
Link to thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4436
Well tex, it depends on the look you're after I guess. Eventually mine will have an industrial type feel to it, so I'm going with corrugated tin on the ceiling.
Link to thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4436
Attachments
"When it comes to gluing, how do you get around the moisture barrier?"
You don't, that's why I'd blow cellulose. It seals well enough that you don't need to worry about humidity behind the board.
Also, around here we strap ceilings so we don't have to worry about glue, joist movement, etc. Of course strapping ceilings is a big debate, and even pro-stapping people often skip doing a garage.
You don't, that's why I'd blow cellulose. It seals well enough that you don't need to worry about humidity behind the board.
Also, around here we strap ceilings so we don't have to worry about glue, joist movement, etc. Of course strapping ceilings is a big debate, and even pro-stapping people often skip doing a garage.
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I'm not sure which panels my friend used, but they come in all sorts of different profiles, gauges, colors and lengths. One supply company I deal with sells Fabral, (www.fabral.com), Grandrib 3 which is a light ga. 3 ft wide panel that comes any length from 6' to 40'. Unpainted is about $1.50 per lin ft, painted $1.90.
Most lumber yards either stock or can order roofing/siding panels but often they are limited to 12' long. You have to see what is available where you are. Your best bet is a commercial supply company, in my area it is Harvey Industries, who also have a website.
Most lumber yards either stock or can order roofing/siding panels but often they are limited to 12' long. You have to see what is available where you are. Your best bet is a commercial supply company, in my area it is Harvey Industries, who also have a website.