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Sheetrock tape lifting

dmdc411

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Aug 28, 2016
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132
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Mn
My home is a 20yo 3 level split. In my lower level family room, there's a horizontal seam in the sheet rock located over the rim joist for the ground level. There is a vented crawl space behind the lower part of this wall. My air to air exchanger pulls air out of this space to reduce radon and any moisture. It is insulated, warm & dry. I have scraped the mud and tape out of this seam once already. Used paper tape and USG green lid mud as a base. Then finished with USG blue light weight filler. After 8 years the tape is partially lifting again. There is a vapor barrier behind the rock. No moisture issues what so ever. Should the sheetrock seam have been located over studs, instead of the rim plate? Im in Minnesota, so we have some odd moving with temp changes. But this one is unexplainable. Any ideas on a fix?

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benjamintmiller

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Feb 8, 2011
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284
Location
IA
Did you mix the USG green mud with water when you taped? Usually this happens when the mud is too dry. From the factory, it needs added water.
 

benjamintmiller

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Feb 8, 2011
Messages
284
Location
IA
You could tape it with mesh tape and setting compound ("easy sand"). You can even add a little bit of PVA glue into the easy sand as ssdave suggested, but the setting compound by itself is usually enough.
 
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dmdc411

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Aug 28, 2016
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Location
Mn
Benjamin miller , no water added. I bought a small tub of new mud just for this job. I tried taking pics. Didn't work out. After my initial post I made sure I had paint. Cans dated Oct 2008! Also noted more lifting tape on this wall. Used to be a door with a walled in landing because the lower level was unfinished when the house was built. I removed this to open the room up. Noticed some of that tape us lifting slso. I'll try the tire bond trick! Thank you!

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couch67

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Mar 18, 2016
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Ontario Canada
You could tape it with mesh tape and setting compound ("easy sand"). You can even add a little bit of PVA glue into the easy sand as ssdave suggested, but the setting compound by itself is usually enough.

+1 on the mesh tape and setting compound. I use durabond 90, it sets like concrete so you definitely dont want to slather it on. They say mesh tape is not as strong as paper but I havent had an issue yet. Disclaimer: not a contractor, just a home diy working on my home and a number of friend/family jobs.
 

tonyciambrone

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Nov 4, 2015
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1,152
Location
Northern Illinois
cut the tape and old mud out. Put one or two coats of Zinnser Gardz over it. that will prevent water from the new compound to blister/swell the paper and gypsum.

Pre-fill the seam with Durabond, Tape over with either all purpose and paper tape, or Durabond with Fibafuse. I don't like regular mesh tape seen it fail way too many times.
 

pcmeiners

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Aug 13, 2009
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In the only town in Pennsylvania, Bloomsburg.
"cut the tape and old mud out. Put one or two coats of Zinnser Gardz over it. "

Basically my answer, after removing the old tape/old mud, coat with the shellac or oil base, let dry, then tape. Latex paint will only allow it to happen all over again. I would use paper tape, after sanding, prime with the above or oil base, then latex top coat. Went through Sandy, 4 ft of water on ground floor, water receded, no damage to my walls as I used oil based primer. Everyone else on the street had all tape lift from wall as latex primer was used.
 
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