Sheldon Vernon #0 Horizontal Mill Questions

[toolin' around]

anyone have any experience with these things?

I just picked up a Sheldon Vernon #0 Horizontal Mill fitted with a Rusnok Vertical Mill Head…

It needs a little TLC but seems in reasonable shape. Previous owner never used it as a horizontal mill, so my immediate focus is on the table for now, so I can get the vertical mill operating smoothly, then I’ll attack the horizontal workings. It’s a nice compact unit, and fine for most of my tasks…

I just pulled the table apart… there’s a ton of lash in the table traverse (absolutely none in the other two axis).

The zero wheel is really stiff (it’s almost frozen on one of the other axis)… but I can’t figure out how to get the handle, zero wheel and bearings apart… I don’t want to try force just yet, as I’m sure there’s a trick to it!!!

I ordered the manual for it, but it hasn’t arrived yet.

Any advice from those more wise and knowledgeable???

Also, does anyone know if it’s possible to get a new acme nut made? It’s brass, with about a 5/8 pin on the bottom that is punched to keep it in place. (A general machine shop or is there anyone that specializes in these things?)

More photos to come…

 

[macgee]

I've worked on several Sheldons, there's quite a few of them in the LA area but I don't recognize that dial mechanism. I just rebuilt a Sheldon compound rest for a lathe this week.

I can see what looks like a sealed bearing pressed in there? But I don't see any surfaces showing play or wear from being loose. It might be the threads are worn badly in the bronze lead screw nut or the nut itself is loose and giving you backlash but I don't see signs of it moving around? Could be the screws holding the handle are loose or the ones mounting it to the table? How were the gibs adjusted, were they loose when you took the table off? Was the saddle in place in the dovetail or missing?

Have to admit, its really hard to tell with the pictures you provided. I generally found taking a video while operating the handle as the best way to see what the problem could be.

 

[matt_i]

In the middle pic it seems like there's a bump on the center-ball. Likely a hand-fitted solid tapered pin.

Use points on a dial caliper to ensure you are tapping on the small end to release it. Flat punch works best.

 

[toolin' around]

I've worked on several Sheldons, there's quite a few of them in the LA area but I don't recognize that dial mechanism. I just rebuilt a Sheldon compound rest for a lathe this week.

I can see what looks like a sealed bearing pressed in there? But I don't see any surfaces showing play or wear from being loose. It might be the threads are worn badly in the bronze lead screw nut or the nut itself is loose and giving you backlash but I don't see signs of it moving around? Could be the screws holding the handle are loose or the ones mounting it to the table? How were the gibs adjusted, were they loose when you took the table off? Was the saddle in place in the dovetail or missing?

Have to admit, its really hard to tell with the pictures you provided. I generally found taking a video while operating the handle as the best way to see what the problem could be.

Thanks for the detailed comments… everything was tight, and I snugged up the gibs, which fixed the slight lash in the other two axis. The bearings are good. The issue is the worn acme nut.

I found a machine shop locally that specializes in machine repAir, so going to drop by and see if the can replace it.

I’ll provide some more picks as the project progresses… I already dad the table off by this stage.

Tim.

 

[toolin' around]

In the middle pic it seems like there's a bump on the center-ball. Likely a hand-fitted solid tapered pin.

Use points on a dial caliper to ensure you are tapping on the small end to release it. Flat punch works best.

Yep! It’s a tapered pin. Thx.

 

[macgee]

Thanks for the detailed comments… everything was tight, and I snugged up the gibs, which fixed the slight lash in the other two axis. The bearings are good. The issue is the worn acme nut.

I found a machine shop locally that specializes in machine repAir, so going to drop by and see if the can replace it.

I’ll provide some more picks as the project progresses… I already dad the table off by this stage.

Tim.

Glad you found the source of the problem, it's not always easy to isolate the source.

I never done business with these guys but you may want to contact them and see if they can fabricate you one:

Company name is: https://bmpartstech.com/product-category/south-bend-lathe-parts/

https://www.ebay.com/sch/derewa2/m.html?item=192872253990&hash=item2ce8150a26%3Ag%3AAisAAOSwjt5afOkD&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562



There's other out of state companies that make bronze acme screw nuts at very reasonable prices its a matter of fining you can make yours. That's an interesting way to mount the bronze nut, I have seen that style on a Sheldon before.

Will be interested to hear what with the machine shop says and cost? I'm not too far away from you and its always good to know about companies who offer services like this.

I'm hoping this is all that's needed to making the mill run sweet.

The next possible challenge for you is getting all the collets and tooling for the Rusnok head

 

[toolin' around]

The guy actually dropped by today to take a look… he said it was a sweet little mill.

He is going to see if he can find a nut that will work, but he has a method that will temporarily tighten the nut that he learned from an old timer, that could even work as a semi permanent fix.

He’s coming by tomorrow to scrape the slides and fix the nut unless he manages to track one down to replace it. Said it will only take a couple of hours.

Salt of the earth guy, he’s just working part time from home as work comes up nowadays.

You’ll find him under Brannon Machine Repairs. (Rob Brannon). He used to work on all the big industrial machines and reconditioning used machines for a dealer.

I’ll keep you posted on the results.

As for tooling… it came with an assortment of collets and cheap HF HSS end mills, plus a half dozen horizontal cutters.

I found a good source of Y Collets and just ordered another few that were either missing or that I wanted more than one (I’ll leave collets on my most common drill bits… it’s much better than my drill press!)
A guy in WA (Tools-n-Gizmos.com) has almost every size available. He grades the used stock in terms of condition, and excellent condition used collets are $10-$12 each. He didn’t have 1/2” or 1/4” used, but has new in box for $51 each… I’ll hold off on those till I exhaust the used market search!

(The guy’s 75 years old and the business is for sale if anyone’s interested!)

Also ordered a decent set of Kodiak US made carbide end mills ($98)

Seems like I’m making decent progress… can’t wait to get it all back together!!!

 

[Maui]

You might want to contact these guys: https://www.dependableacme.com/about/

Maui

 

[macgee]

The guy actually dropped by.

He’s coming by tomorrow to scrape the slides and fix the nut unless he manages to track one down to replace it. Said it will only take a couple of hours.

Salt of the earth guy, he’s just working part time from home as work comes up nowadays.

You’ll find him under Brannon Machine Repairs.

A guy in WA (Tools-n-Gizmos.com) has almost every size available.

Thanks for the info and he's actually located near me so thank you. Not often that you hear these days about getting a house visit and scrapes; that's awesome and he's in my hood.

Having him come over and work on your mill is a very good call. You'll be super appreciative when using the mill and with everything dialed in and working correctly, which can't be said for many who are using old revived tired machinery and frustrated.

The guys at Tools-n-Gizmos are awesome! I sent them a thank you letter just for posting on there website all the great reference info and spec's to odd collets, they have saved my **** numerous times. I also try to buy from them when they have parts in stock that I need.

I have a friend in Moorpark who recently rebuilt a Diamond horizontal mill and added a Ruznok head to it.

Yes, it was the Y collets I was referring to, those are the tough little buggers to find and I believe 1/2" is the max size. Maybe recommend looking for a 1" to 1.5" dia indexable carbide insert face mill with a 1/2" shank for your Rusnok.

Looking forward to seeing the updated pics and hearing your experience with Brannon.


And Thanks Maui for the link on the ACME guys. The more the merry as I can see making bronze acme nuts a thriving business as there's so many older machines needing replacements.

 

[toolin' around]

Awesome, thanks!

 

[toolin' around]

Thanks for the info and he's actually located near me so thank you. Not often that you hear these days about getting a house visit and scrapes; that's awesome and he's in my hood.



Having him come over and work on your mill is a very good call. You'll be super appreciative when using the mill and with everything dialed in and working correctly, which can't be said for many who are using old revived tired machinery and frustrated.



The guys at Tools-n-Gizmos are awesome! I sent them a thank you letter just for posting on there website all the great reference info and spec's to odd collets, they have saved my **** numerous times. I also try to buy from them when they have parts in stock that I need.



I have a friend in Moorpark who recently rebuilt a Diamond horizontal mill and added a Ruznok head to it.



Yes, it was the Y collets I was referring to, those are the tough little buggers to find and I believe 1/2" is the max size. Maybe recommend looking for a 1" to 1.5" dia indexable carbide insert face mill with a 1/2" shank for your Rusnok.



Looking forward to seeing the updated pics and hearing your experience with Brannon.





And Thanks Maui for the link on the ACME guys. The more the merry as I can see making bronze acme nuts a thriving business as there's so many older machines needing replacements.

The last thanks was also meant for Maui for the Acme guys… I didn’t see the later post when I replied…

Sounds like we’re in the same neighborhood… Rob Brannon is only 3 miles from my place!

He was just a freak find while I was checking Yelp for machine shops… he didn’t even know he was on Yelp!

I’m looking forward to getting this thing back together… I haven’t done any machining for too many years, and I’ve never had the space, but I’ve had many projects where I wish I did! The footprint on this machine is super compact, so it’s perfect for now. (Planning a new workshop built, so a lathe is also somewhere in my future!)

I may end up paying for a couple of new collets just to fill a couple of gaps, but after my order from Tools-n-Gizmos arrives, I should be pretty well provisioned for now. I agree, his site and range is awesome!

Appreciate the detailed advice, this is a great community!